She Follows Shells: Day 40 Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvilles

WHEW! Hang in there for the pictures!

This path four years ago just about killed me. I will never forget it! I was fortunate to walk it with David, Black Dog from the forum. We both had plans to stay at Orrison that is about one third of the typical route over. Back in those days there were no other options and Orrison's capacity is usually reached months in advance. When he and I got to Orrison we both felt like we had the golden ticket as we watched people get turned away. I don't think I could have made it further that day.

Because of this I woke up, at the campground (very basic but fine) with a lot of anxiety about today with the kids. It was expected to rain, cloudy and cold. I was nervous, as nervous as I have been this trip. We stood hand and hand at the church in front of the alter and prayed to get us over safe and to provide us warm accommodation (camping) this night. I started to whimper and tried to hold back crying. I'm not really certain why I cried I do think a lot of it is emotion that we have COMPLETED the Le Puy route and are now off to another Camino adventure. So the tears were a mixed bunch of emotions.

The Camino started seconds later and we felt great!!! I kept questioning if I was on the same route going over the mountain that I took four years ago. I obviously was it is clearly marked though there is a low route ( still obviously ups and downs) and the high route, it was clearly marked, way more so than four years ago. Also other gites have opened, more accommodation, though Orrison, in my eyes, is still a wonderful spot to rest and start your Camino from.

When we passed Orrison today we could not have imagined calling it a day. We felt good and strong, this is obviously because we have been walking 40 days now and Le Puy at times was a difficult walk. I was really proud of us!

When David and I walked we had killer views! It is always a chance that your views will be impeded by clouds. Many I speak with say they saw nothing this day and I could not imagine as the views can't be beaten on any Camino I have walked. Today we would get a combination of both and dark clouds over us threatening to rain. The animals on this route in what appears to be out of nowhere is majestic! At one point you have to cross over just at the border of France and Spain and there is literally a cross there. It was so cloudy up thee that I slightly worried would we see it.

We had killer views till about Orrison and then walked in huge clouds where the views below could not be appreciated but the ghostly looking images of sheep, horses and cows were all around. They had bells and at times that is all you heard. I wished for the kids sake they could see the views below but the experience of walking in the clouds with the animals was amazing to me. Bronwyn has a small bucket list, started by one of her best friends, Caroline's grandmother. One item is to "catch a cloud". She carried a jelly jar up today just to do that and can now scratch that off her list.

We passed the Roland fountain and had a cheers. We love the story of Roland! Here we are walking on the path of Napoleon, Charlemagne, Hannabel and many other historical figures.

With about an hour and a half to go we started descending and quickly though even that seemed way easier than before. I was really confused upon entering Roncesvalles as there is tons of construction going on. Construction is everywhere. It started to drizzle in our last fifteen minutes and we reached the Auberge (the name of accommodation in Spain vs Gite in France) obviously tired, wet and nervous of where to stay the night. To stay at the Auberge would be sixty euros, about seventy dollars. This is in an open area that is partitioned off into eight beds, you hear snorers and all.

We were offered the option to camp outside for three euros a person and have full access to the kitchen, bathrooms and showers. Normally the deal of the Camino but we were wet, cold, and it was drizzling. I again started to tear up I was proud, exhausted, cold, wet and felt responsible to keep my kids warm and dry though not one was complaining. The sweetest pilgrim volunteer, Reicky, came up to us, she is from Holland and just took us under her wing and grabbed our clothes did our laundry and walked us to a room where our family could all sleep. We ate in the kitchen took dreamy showers and had clean clothes in the morning. Reicky shared it was her birthday and that my kids were her present. Five minutes before lights out we snuck up to the office and sung Happy Birthday to her. A true Camino angel, we will never forget this wonderful crew of volunteers!!!!

Leaving St Jean ...