STAGE FOURTEEN: Ages to Burgos (I love this city)

I'm not convinced my feet will ever get use to this demand. I was forewarned that the walk into Burgos was "boring" I think I shared that some take a bus in. The day started out with some of the best walk I have to date. We were the first in our nice auberge to get up and I was super quick to not hold the boys up, they waited for me next door with cafe con leche and a croissant and we were off before sunrise. Enough people had their head lamps that I didn't need mine ( have not used it yet) and it was so nice out in the cool morning. A few kilometers down the road is a town called Atapuerca (Steve please have the kiddos google this and mark their map accordingly), if I'm not mistaken it is where they have found the oldest human remains. I can't wait to figure out to upload my pictures here for walking thru these hills and forest this morning were magical and touched me deeply. We ran across a huge collection of rocks coming out in a circular pattern, hard to explain but you see these often it starts off as one stone and more stones are added till the circle keeps spiraling out. This one was huge and we picked up a rock and added a small stone to this huge effort. I would love to know how long this has been going on for this one was really large.
We started hitting the industrial area about half way thru the walk, A is having some problems with his feet and I am realizing our time together might be coming to end, the rest of the boys leave from Burgos to their homes and A only has a few days left and might change his flight to go home early due to his injury. We all promises when we hit Burgos we'd go for a great dinner as our last time together. The auberge had not opened up when we arrived, I was at the mercy of the boys as to where we were going stay my heart wanted to stay in a place called Emaus that is parochial (affiliated with a church) right outside the city hustle, however there is no way I would chose that over their company so I just followed them into the city not even needing to look for shells (way markers). The huge cathedral of Burgos glowed before us and is built in a way where it actually hugs everything around it. We stood in line with other pilgrims until the doors opened at one. With feet throbbing and in my final stretch of our walk and beautiful blond woman comes up to me and it is J from Colorado! I screamed with enthusiasm and she walked with me to the auberge. her son (the dancer) is sick and they checked into the homeland this would be their second night in Burgos. Our auberge is the municipal one, a fine oiled machine resembling IKEA on steroids and is a pilgrim factory. Clean and robotic is sleeps a few hundred a night I think. We took our showers, did quick laundry (there is a massive routine to this) and were out to enjoy the town. I LOVE this city,we had a nice dinner and ran into many people that I knew. They said everyone was looking for me the night before as they celebrated T from Finland's 1,000th kilometer (she has walked from Le Puy
France). I knew this celebration was going to take place and knew when I stayed in Grannon it would cause me to miss it. That crew has moved on and am pretty convinced I will stay one more night here in Burgos. I'm actually thinking I will try to get in at Emaus where I had originally planned to stay. S from a Holland a young college aged girl and I would venture out to the main square in hoes of meeting up with J and M from Colorado, S and M (the dancer) hung out together for days but I think since he is sick they might have stayed in. She and I drank
Sangria that was costly for what we have experienced so far but we were in the trendy square and justified it easily. We then made decision that almost cost us our sleep indoors in a bed. At these pilgrim factories you have to be in at ten thirty we grabbed an ice-cream thinking we had the time and bolted for the auberge. We were not just running down a street we were running up the steps is the cathedral and circling the stone walls to our place,in hind site a neat image. We were the last two in the doors and I got up to the fifth floor where the boys wee sleeping there with me and they all just took a huge sigh of relief thinking I was going to be locked out. Everyone was in bed, it was too dark to see and I had no choice but to sleep in my long maxi dress that I had worn out (I couldn't see to change my clothes, nor was I really allowed to make much noise)...I was on the top bunk with no ladder and just giggled loudly as I tried to hop up there with my dress on. I felt like a rebel and couldn't control my laughing. The boys and I were within those two bunks closest to me and you could just tell they were relieved I was in. A said they were worried I wouldn't make it and I joked they would have saved me I was certain.

STAGE THIRTEEN: Tosantos to Ages

I didn't leave the auberge till about 8:15 this morning, that is late by pilgrim standards but the monks told us to take our time this morning any many of us did. I think I have shared that I totally underestimated the physical demand of this walk, with that said I disagree with a recent blog post that I read that tells people they shouldn't attempt this unless in great shape. I can't argue my point on this well but I can only share my observations...I see twenty something year old males struggling right beside seventy year old couples who live in some rural area of some European country. Many of us have agreed that people who hang out in a gym vs getting outdoor exercise might struggle more.
I would start this morning by myself aiming to check into a Parrish in San Ortego. As I was walking four guys were passing me and we struck up conversation. Three don't speak any English and are from one Spain, the other lives in Miami and is from Cuba ( he has lived in the states almost twenty years), he is the Social Ambassador for the group and translates. I really enjoyed walking with them and we had set our eyes on St Juan Ortega to sleep at. We got into the cathedral town and my feet were throbbing, there were hills and rocks today. The rocks can really kill your feet but the day was also filled with some nice forest to walk thru. I saw the cafe with umbrellas and was dying to call this a day (it was two pm). The faster two in the bunch I and J had scouted out the bed availability and suggested we continue on. My mind was thinking, "drinks under umbrellas or keep going with a crew I am really enjoying", they must have noticed that I really wanted to stop for refreshment and jumped in that of course we were going to stop for drinks. They bought a round of beers and after some relaxation we were off.
I loved walking with these guys, their enthusiasm was great and the "social ambassador" effortlessly translated. We arrived in Ages and it was the perfect pilgrim stop, many familiar faces popped up to greet me, I can't express the sensation of seeing people you have made contact with days later, you think about these people over and over and then to reunite over drinks, food and wonderful conversation is the best feeling. A and I went out for a pilgrim dinner, a green melon was served with a shaved dried carpaccio and it really was all I needed. I surrendered my iPad to them to try to upload pictures and went upstairs where I had a wonderful nights sleep. Earplugs save the night, we had four bunk beds and again I was the only female. I was in the safest of company though, an earlier Skype home to Steve had him speaking with my new friends who assured him they were taking care of me. This group will end tomorrow as all of the guys but A depart for their homes here in Spain. Tomorrow is a big cut Burgos...anticipation is high as we all know what awaits us, some will depart tomorrow as their vacation is up, some will stay one night, I hope to splurge and stay two. A has a slight injury and might not be up for the pace I need to keep and he returns to miami in a week and is saying he might just go home early due to his injury. This is not his first Camino do the ultimate goal has been done by him.
It is totally common for everyone to be talking feet, feet, and more feet. Showing your battle wounds (blisters) is common place and no conversation is off limits at the table...I am having a blast and have not for a second thought, "what am I doing?". Taking my first steps out of the starting gate I did wonder if I could do this, but never even a nano second of questioning my trip. My memories have gone back to a trip I took about fifteen or sixteen years ago to Greece where I joined a group of Serbians on their rented yacht and the first day was do see sick and delirious as I was booming over the side. I was in the best of company on that trip and remember thinking as I was about to pass out from getting so sick over those waves that I wouldn't hop on a helicopter if it landed to save me. My dear friends would later admit they joked (while literally holding me so I didn't fall overboard while yacking), " she can't die on us we have no American Flag to throw her overboard with".
Tomorrow is beautiful Burgos...and a tough walk into the town, some take a bus. I would never underestimate or judge someone's Camino but both feet better be broken for my derrière to touch a car, bus or taxi seat...on my feet all the way God willing!

STAGE TWELVE: Grannon to Tosantos

We woke this morning to a simple breakfast served by the Parrish we were staying in, all of us agreed we were so happy to have stayed here. I knew the next stage had a similar experience, a Parrish with mass, a community meal etc... I walked with a few of the younger kids on trail today, one from South Korea who grew up in Berlin (I think the wall was down before he was born,which blows my mind. I also walked with another guy probably about thirty from France. I walked a good part of the day by myself which is really enjoyable too. I got to the town before my destination and snuck into the church, if a church is open and on the path I do like to at least peek inside, amazing these old churches are open and you can be the only one in there with all of their gold ornate decor. As I walked out a nice gal K from Chicago was seconds behind me. I assumed she was a fast walker and was amazed how she came on me so quickly but she had found a small cafe to catch up on emails. I bought this iPad the day before I left and have loved having it, I am not use to it and it has word recognition on it that really changes what I think I am saying. K and I walked together at a really fast pace, I kept thinking how impressed with her, she was skittle older than I am and her pace was super quick. Then she turned to me and said," I can't keep up with your pace", I laughed for I thought I was the one keeping up with her pace. She has less time on trail so will be catching a bus into the big city Burgos from tonight's destination. She and I were the first to arrive in tiny Tosantos with its one bar (restaurants are called bars here). We slept on simple mats on the floor like at Grannon which does not bother me at all. We had a wonderful communal dinner of paella and salad and then went upstairs for a previous ceremony/tradition from here. We each read in our language wishes and prayers that had been written by other pilgrims about thirty days prior. We were then given the chance to write our prayers, thoughts and wishes down knowing that some pilgrims in a months time will be reading them. I slept really well and departed from Tosantos at about 8:30 which could be rather late by pilgrims standards. I was not certain where I was headed which is part of the Camino way, but the sun was out, it didn't appear rain was coming and I was off slightly after sun had already risen.

STAGE ELEVEN: Ciruena to Granon

Ahhhh Granon!!!
I knew this was a wonderful gem on the Camino but once again it exceeded all expectations. I walked with W from Canada a new college grad who has spent the past few months in retail in Europe. He looks like Justin Beeber with lighter hair and I really enjoyed our walk. Our destination was only about twelve kilometers, about seven miles and I felt really good. I enjoyed this companions worldly views and asked him to hold out getting married till one of my daughters was of age... He politely shared he was gay. That opened up some wonderful conversation about family and acceptance and of course politics. He shared his family was totally supportive and I was thrilled to hear that. I shared I always thought my family would be very much the same and what a fifty to allow our children not to have to hide from us. We arrived to Granon and I went straight for the bell tower where I would be sleeping tonight and W thought he needed a true bed and checked into the other auberge in town. We were done so early and it was great seeing some of the old group I had not seen in a few days, they urged me to go further but the Granon experience was tops on my list and I am so glad that I stayed. At Granon the parochial auberge is charming, you sleep in the bell tower and have a communal meal and can then attend mass and a special candle lighting in the church. We had to sing for bread...this was so special, down the stairs the volunteers came clanging pots and pans telling us we all needed to go and earn our bread from the local bakery. The two auberges in town met in the street and were greeted by the adorable bakery owner who dramatically said we must earn our bread for dinner. A guitar was brought out and they called the different countries up to sing. At first we all acted shy but soon we were like drunks in a karaoke bar... When they called for an American I hid as I know my limits, singing is one them. I told them I was Canadian with a smirk and they pulled me out. I was told I had to sing "Bye Bye Miss American Pie"...the words instantly came back to me several people stepped forward to assist. We had a blast, when I was done I think we had finally earned our bread and they picked four people to enter the bakery and they came back out in costume and wigs with our dinner. We danced back to the auberge and had to make room for the delightful overflow of pilgrims we had for the night. The energy was fabulous. I met a neat man R from Scotland and only share in that he told me of a wonderful experience he had had the day before. As he left Ventosa ( where I was throwing a camelback in the street) he passed stacks of rocks off to the side. These rock arrangements are very common place on the Camino and I will admit I have long had a mental disorder in bonding with rocks and picking them up. So others like myself will pick up a rock, carry it and find the perfect spot for it. These constructions are neat but we have passed thousands of them on the way. He said he passed these rocks and thirty meters past them he felt a calling to go back to them, he shared it was the only time he had walked back on this journey that calls us forward. He said the calling was so strong he started videoing it, there among the stacks of rocks he walked and was drawn to a stack where someone had placed a wooden cross, such things are common place here but he took the time to read this. This cross was a memorial to a lady from his town in Scotland (it gets better), it was a memorial to a teacher who died of cancer and his wife not only worked with her but took over her job upon her death. Having the church opened to us at night before going to bed was glorious, we passed around a candle and spoke (if we wanted to) about the Camino, I said how thankful I was to our loved ones at home who supported our efforts and were stepping in to allow us to do this. We slept on mats on the floor and the place was super quiet, I didn't sleep well but I suspect it was from eating late. Tomorrow would be another shorter walk for me as I hoped to stay at the parochial auberge in to santos, another gem from what I have been told. We had our first sprinkles tonight, I had to grab my hanging laundry before it was totally dry and threw on my fleece for the first time. It is getting cooler...
Today was a dreamy day!

STAGE TEN:Ventosa to Ciruena

Today was a really hot walk, I stayed in a pretty odd town and was just too tired to walk on. My camelback has been leaking every morning from the start of my trip, I'm pretty sure that REI sold me a returned damaged water reservoir. I wanted a two liter bag and they had none and then the lady surfaced with one from the back, since it leaked from day one I think she mistakingly found a damaged one. I removed all of my items again and this time started walking with my broken camelback until I realized my attempt not to leave anything on the side of the road might leave me walking with it for an hour or so. I passed a wine company and left it at their gate feeling alittle badly about that but also realizing someone might be able to patch the not so obvious hole it had near the device that closes it. Today had little to no shade...this town was clearly a ghost town and oddly has a golf course within the first feet of entering it. This is one of the oddest places if not the oddest place I have ever seen, I walked by the golf course hoping to check into a place and see the town and it was all shuttered up. I walked back to the golf course to get some much needed food and was glad I did, I had a wonderful bowl of gazpacho there. I really didn't know what to do upon leaving the restaurant at the golf course, the next town had a great atmosphere typically it would be a no brainier but I knew where I wanted to be tomorrow and it would only make sense to stay here. I approached the lone auberge, a heavy set man answered the door, no smile or any great welcome but he had a bed and I was thankful. I skipped dinner that he made but found on this quiet odd night to have lucked out with only five others at this auberge. I thought they were all wonderful and loved meeting E from England who was walking the Camino hoping she could allow a wonderful love back into her life after losing her wonderful hubby to cancer. I was fascinated by her energy and enjoyed her stories and company very much. In our room slept a young man who was feeling sick and had been out for hours. He is W from Canada and we wouldn't chat much tonight as he was feeling sick and wasn't really sure he was going to be able to walk the next day. I knew a gem of a spot was a short instance the next day and asked him if he would want to walk together I was happy in the morning when he thought he could.

STAGE EIGHT AND NINE: Los Arcos to Viana

I'm just now realizing how short my walk was today, right under twenty kilometers so about 12 miles. I knew I was going to stay in Viana, two of my new Camino friends back at home recommended it and I walked into this festive town on a Saturday and locals were at play. I saw a wedding and someone else shared that there two weddings and a funeral. I facetimed with the family in the festive square and all of the towns kids gathered around to say hi to my children. I loved this town, my day was a nice one ( now that I notice my distance I see why). I stopped for coffee I route and met two American ladies who told me about the converted palace in Viana, I walked straight there justifying staying in a palace. Two nights in a row of hotels and I worried Steve's phone was alerting him to that card swipe (what were those banks thinking with the technology that shows your hubby each time you swipe your card:)) . I wrote about this night already but did want to mention that I also met young dancer's mom today when we stopped for coffee, they were just finishing up but I enjoyed her company very much. J from Colorado and when I got my hotel room and there were two beds I wished I could invite her to stay there too as it would be neat to have an evening of girl conversation. I had my hotel call ahead to Vantosa where I thought I could make a reservation one day in advance, I had heard great things about the place and was glad when it appeared the reservation was a success. I woke up in gorgeous Vianna at about seven to a bunch of clatter outside, I looked out over my private balcony which just eight hours earlier was illuminated over the palace ruins and there in the street were yesterday's bride and groom still dressed in their wedding attire. A cup of coffee and I was off for what would be a very hot and very difficult day for me. I walked and walked, I worried about getting to my reservation too late and my bed being given away. I pulled in at five thirty very late by Camino standards and said I had reservation and they said , no we are full...." she was about to say "...but...." when I started bursting out crying. It was my first cry around me , I have she'd many tears here over new friends spouses dying, sons dying (I don't feel I have the right to share their stories but can say the stories, the pains, the lives I am hearing about make me wonder how some of these people even go on). I broke down, and the gal was trying to tell me that she had a place on the floor in a private room for me. The three volunteers went into triage mode surrounded me, lifted my backpack from me, tucked me into my very comfortable spot on the floor and rubbed by back and arms while I drifted off for a quick nap...I couldn't stop the loud snorts and cries and could hear them opening the door to check on me periodically. Opera played from the speakers and incense surrounded the atmosphere....this was heaven on Earth and I went upstairs to find the American mother and son cooking in the kitchen, we had a wonderful evening...and I thought I just might live another day.

STAGE SEVEN: Lorca to Los Arcos

My new best-friends are trying to kill me! We got up this morning and were out of the gates... We walked along the Roman roads and put in my longest day thus far. V is so funny I call him Squirrel in that he is hopping from brick to brick, bridge to bridge and nothing stops him. I know G just turned sixty three a few days ago so I suspect they are the same age. Today we passed the famous wine fountain, that as of 0900 everyday is to have free wine. We coincidentally arrived at a little after, I used my wine glass bought for the occasion and I think I got about two drops. It was great photo ops and there is actually a web cam there for people at home to see you. I'm not sure Steve wanted an 0300 wake up call to see it but the thought did enter my mind. We walked with A from Norway... A super cute guy who sounds like he is traveling around the world, I heard thru others he worked on a ship there making like fifty euros an hour and that has funded a few years of traveling for him. I told him I have a nurse girl-friend for him... LP... If some prince charming doesn't knock her off her feet before hand :). The day was hot at one point I was dying for food but V and G wanted to go on... I didn't want to lose their company but I also realized I was in my final few hours of it . I could not keep up their pace and their trip was way shorter than mine so the paces were going to be very different. I walked for a bit with an American dancer who I think is in his early twenties... Nice guy walking with his mother I had yet to meet her on this day. The last two hours I walked with a recent college grad E from the States, her feet were killing her and we sat on the side of the road getting her squared away. My feet are good, almost everyone is having foot problems... It is not common to eat and someone poking and bandaging their feet, total strangers are helping each other with their feet. You can't relate I don't think unless here...but all conversations involve the feet. It makes the images of Jesus and the feet washing come to life. Many have started the foot washing tradition on the Thursday of Holy Week and I think after this experience I am going to incorporate that into our holy Week traditions. The auberges in Los Arcos are filling up quickly, this is unusual the amount of pilgrims on the road, many think it is due to " the movie " with Martin Sheen and his son called THE WAY. I have heard we might have more pilgrims out now than August saw. I also heard that in Saint Jean they keep record of how many pilgrims leave a day and that they had three hundred the day after I left, combine that with the almost forty that stayed with me in Orisson you are looking at three hundred and forty off us coming down over that mountain on Monday morning, hence the overflow was opened. Anyway I checked into a hotel tonight...a much needed warm bath awaited me. I was thrilled to find L and J from Amsterdam staying there , I didn't really know these guys but we had struck up a conversation in Zubri and they seemed like peers, my age, married with children so I felt since
connection to them. I strolled down to the center square which was filled with energy and ran into many familiar faces there. I had dinner with A from Norway and a gal about my age with children at home who has been walking from Le Puy France...her Camino was half way done at my starting point. She said she told her hubby she needed two months and when she marketed it as pilgrimage he agreed. He finds her hotels daily so we just walks to the next hotel. What a wonderful evening....it felt good though to sleep in a room by myself.

STAGE SIX : Eunate to Lorca

I was the last to leave to Eunate... bond actually stayed behind and endured the snorer without having to leave the room. The hostess laughed and shared a story how a huge snorer caused the whole to vacate onetime. She shared how at breakfast everyone was waiting for " the snorer", it's odd and of course not fair to the snorer ( who in our case was a vet nice man) but I found I have passed him since and just pray he doesn't stop where I do. I walked thru Puente La Reina where the famous Queen's Bridge is (kiddos add that to your wall map). I was alone... How odd going from being surrounded by wonderful energy to being alone. I walked thru Puente La Reina and backtracked some to find a place that would serve me a salad, I lucked out to get a salad with a pear and cheese and thick balsamic vinegar. I also made a rush purchase, almost everyone has walking poles I saw a previous wooden walking stick with a typical gorge attached and purchased it for about ten euros. I had images of it being on my fireplace mantle and walked proudly down the street with it. Instantly I realized I had made a huge mistake...it just goring my way and handling it when trying to take pictures was no fun.
I walked for about two hours by myself, kind of second guessing my decision to separate from a group I loved dearly. I knew I needed it but it was still a change. Inclines kill me... I was huffing and puffing up one when I heard someone behind me. I had only passed a young couple in their own little world and assumed it was them. Coming up on me was a gentleman old enough to be my father wasting no time, he would make comment that his father was coming up behind him. I turned around to only the hat of another gentleman who too was conquering this incline really well. I did the math in my head and just could believe that his father was doing this... It ends up these two have been best friends since 1969. Two Irish friends who I loved instantly, one is a father of seven and the other of I think six. These two were a hoot and I felt like the luckiest person in the world to get to walk with them. Their pace just about killed me but their energy and enthusiasm for life was so much fun. V and G from Ireland... And G has a daughter named Neve (but spelled in the traditional way Niamh). We walked and ended up in a town setting up a band V approached the band (he is gifted in that he approaches everyone a happier people person I have yet to meet) and he told them he could play the trumpet and they shared in about thirty minutes they would play. We had walked right into a festival in Spain and all of the town's inhabitants were dressed white with red scarves, it appeared clear this festival was child related and confetti and beach balls came flying out of the windows. We enjoyed ourselves, but these guys don't linger long and instantly we were off. We passed "the snorer" from the night before and I worried he was going to end up where we were. I know that sounds awful but you need to survive out here and you need your rest to do so. I had a goal to stop in Lorca and what a special little spot it was. Life there centered around small bar and a bar maid who was so sweet. I had been searching for gazpacho and this would be my first bowl in Spain. I thought to myself how fortunate this sweet girl was in her job, she saw international people everyday, I doubt an employee at the World Bank could see more diversity in one day and the population in her town was four hundred. I would have my first real FaceTime with the family tonight as there were wonderful nooks to this auberge to escape to and have conversations. We did laundry in a machine and not by hand....ahhhhhh....and V was kind enough to let me throw my stuff I with his, somewhere I lost a pair of black undies, the clotheslines all have black undies so there is a slight chance someone took mine by accident, however I did forearm V to make sure he gives his wife some notice that there just might be some ladies undies on his clothes. His wife and daughter packed his backpack for him, it amazed me how they researched what he needed and he just trusted that he'd have what he needed. It ends up I remind him of his American daughter-in-law who lives with his son about three hours away from me...our paths will cross again. We had a wonderful pilgrim's meal at our auberge and all agreed we'd wake up early to start the next day. I am mastering the quick pack up now and so much more comfortable with my packing and just working my backpack.

STAGE FIVE: Pamplona to Eunate

I really liked Pamplona, I forget what I have shared from one day to the next and days have now passed. We stayed in Paderborn which is a wonderful German run auberge right on the river. The host (volunteer) sat with me in his office for along time and was such a calm speaker and played beautiful church music, it reminds me how calm my home appears when we choose our music carefully, and create an atmosphere. A wonderful restaurant was recommended to us, Big Bear, Little Bear, Bond and I all walked in and felt underdressed, however they did have a "pilgrim menu" this is an inexpensive meal with few choices made for "poor" pilgrims. The meal tonight had many items to chose from and I had a wonderful grilled red pepper stuffed with what I think was potato and cheese. We walked around the city for a bit and I left the boys early to go back and attempt to FaceTime (Skype) with Steve and the kiddos. I can't explain how little alone time one has here, it's beautiful actually that you always have friends around you here however I am feeling a huge need to connect with the family and it would be almost impossible tonight as wifi was only available near the auberge and you don't want to be disrupting to those around you. I slept again really well...earplugs and my eye mask saved me as an outside street lamp shown thru the window. This was the second morning I had to be woken up. It was confusing getting out of Pamplona and at one point we took a wrong turn and a loud whistle from someone who noticed got our attention and we were back on trail.
I knew that tonight I wanted to stay off the beaten track in Eunate, it's slightly mystical and many stories have been developed about it with certain rituals. It is believed to be an old church built by the Templars and many have said the energy they get within those walls is strong. Bond said he was going to move on and both bears found it the perfect place to play their bagpipes. There are only eight beds connected to this church and I felt super lucky to get one. Little Bear found a young friend to walk with and I was thrilled for him...with that came the desire to walk with his friend and thus Big Bear moved on too. I really enjoyed these guys and hope our paths will cross in again in the next forty days. There was no wifi in our little church so I made it a priority to leave my stuff behind and walk on to the next town to finally have some alone time with my technology. I was desperate for this time. Funny thing is a steep incline took me into the town, even without the backpack I felt it and the next morning I'd be trekking it with the backpack and it felt no more difficult than without. I returned back to Eunate where we ate a wonderful meal and went to bed on mats on the floor, tonight I would come across with possibly Olympic snorer and I took my mat and went downstairs to the kitchen to sleep, two ladies followed me. In the morning I would make it priority to walk alone to stop when I wanted to and just be on my own.

I interrupt this blog...

As I have had to back track to catch up, I must now interrupt my efforts to say THANK YOU TATIANA for your Viana recommendation!!! A group I had eaten dinner with last night said they were going to pass thru Viana and had a date for karaoke. On trail I caught wind of this hotel (uh oh that's two hotels in a row now), and it is beautiful complete with a huge bathtub. A wedding took place in the gorgeous cathedral, the court yard had a massive crowd and this one street is very much alive with celebration. I just returned to my room that has a balcony that over looks lighted ruins, as you enter my room with the doors to the flowered balcony open it appears the lighted ruins are two feet from you , just a small ally for cars is what separates you from them. I am glad I stopped.