I still need to share mu stories of the coast, I suspect the delay has to do with these being some of the hardest moments to blog about. Wonderful times, true exhale moments that involve waves, a sunset, throwing five of my precious dogs ashes into the wind for their final resting place...but the sad moments of having to say bye to people I have loved dearly and will never see again.
But this post is about my journey home, and how I am convinced the wonderful Camino experience would include these hours at the airport and on the plane.
I can think of no vacation,trip, or travel that took this long to get home from destination. I had left Muxia at six AM on Friday and was not in my families embrace until four PM Saturday (ten PM Spain time).
The flight from Spain to Paris was a quick one...I would land about ten PM and had to check into my morning flight at about five AM, it would make no sense to stay anywhere else but the airport. I purchased access to twenty four hours of airport WIFI to get me thru the night, and only hoped I would be able to get some sleep.
I found myself a nice area with four chairs to position myself...alone ...
Within thirty minutes an elderly lady approached me, she was the spitting image of my hubby's mother in a caucasian form (hubby is Pacific Islander). Like Steve's mom she appeared to be a unique character, Steve's mom died a few years ago and while I kind of wanted to be alone at the airport to sleep I welcomed this woman thinking it was his mother approaching me. As she approached me I gradually pulled out my IPad t to email to Steve, "your mom in a caucasian form is toddling over to me as I sit here...". Their similarities would grow over the next seven hours together, and I would wonder many times if this was really happening, and if she was being to sent to me with reason. I would realize quickly that this fascinating woman was very eccentric but also VERY smart. She shared she was up for a Nobel Prize and not knowing much about that process I would gave to look into it some to totally understand that BUT our conversation was fascinating. She was from Israel , had worked in the "Kiev region" of Ukraine (ends up right near Cherkassy where my sons are from). Someone told her that Florida was a nice place to live so she was heading there to check it out.
I would take about three forty minute naps this night at the airport. I boarded my flight to London without incident in the morning and an hour time change would make my layover three hours. I was put in a middle seat and after my long flight over in a middle seat I was slightly disgruntled BUT this would only be about an hour and I could deal. I'm glad I lost my disgruntled way quickly as I was sitting next to a very nice businessman from England who lived in Texas. A nice family man destined to massive air travel for long periods of time. We had a wonderful conversation about our lives and as we landed he shared he is a million mile traveler with our shared Airline, his frequent flier number is below number 100 given out and thus he easily qualifies for the Airline lounge experience. He asked, knowing I have had little luxury in seven weeks if I wanted to be his guest in the lounge. I jumped at this opportunity, I felt uncomfortable walking in there with my pilgrim garb, but he was in shorts which helped. Once in there A full bar was available, fruit, pastry yogurt...almost anything in endless supply. I got to order an eggs Benedict and thought I had died and gone to heaven. He then said, there are showers here too if you want one (before I got to self conscious I had told him about the bath and stranger story already so he was just adding to the experience). At first I thought I couldn't do that as I had no clean clothes to get into ( I had checked my backpack and was hands free). Then I jumped at the opportunity an experience in a beautiful shower with white fluffy towels and bamboo comb. With wet hair I would leave to board my next plane.
I'm not certain I will ever fly American airlines international again, the planes are just as comfortable as others. We do have a fun story about flying American overseas and we think of it often, eight years ago when coming home with our two oldest sons from Ukraine Steve was standing in line for the restroom on the plane and a man asked him his ethnicity. When Steve shared the conversation of good food came up, we have been invited to many parties I am convinced due to his famous ponsit recipe. So this came up and the head flight attendant stopped and turned into the conversation and said out loud, " I have had your ponsit at Deborah M's Christmas part". From that second on we were served ice cream, given bottles of wine and felt a little special. So on THIS flight home I thought that one of our flight attendants was this same lady. I waited till The opportunity presented itself and asked her, " Do you know Deborah M", at which it appeared she didn't and I felt pretty stupid even having asked such a random question. I could tell her mind was turning and she came back to me and literally said ," keep talking...tell me more...I feel like I should be saying YES". I then said that right years ago we were flying over the Atlantic and the conversation of a dish my hubby makes came up and...(I felt so stupid even sharing the conversation) she enthusiastically said," Yes...that was me..." And went on to describe us and she even remembered we were coming home with two new sons. She hooked me up the rest of the flight and I came home with Champagne. This time we exchanged contact information.
I sat in the center section that hekd only three seats, I had an aisle seat, the center seat was empty and an older gentleman sat in the other aisle seat, sadly we shared not a word till our last ninety minutes or so...my loss as we ended up having a GREAT conversation. He had never heard of the Camino before but has been itching for some adventurous physical trip, he wasn't just saying that he was rattling off numerous adventures that you hear among some of the Camino folk. Here this man has the time (few Americans do) and the desire to do something like the Camino. He was so anxious to hear every detail... He was the perfect Camino candidate and I have no doubt will be on trail within twelve months .
As for me...planning Camino number two with three oldest children in ten and a half months.
She Follows Shells...
Monday, October 29, 2012
Friday, October 19, 2012
LAST DAY: OK Boys and girls if a stranger asks you...
...if you want to take a nap and or bath at his hotel what do you say???
If he's a pilgrim and you are a pilgrim than the ONLY answer is "yes"...choosing the bath over the nap probably.
I woke up in Muxia today at five minutes past six, for some reason that five minutes makes me think I am buying a lot more sleep. I didn't get to bed last night till about midnight. I had a rough night of sleep, it has nothing to do with the awesome accomodations, this auberge can not be topped, but there was a really loud snorer that earplugs could not help, not only did he snore like a champ but he grunted and was just restless. At two thirty I had an escape route already in place and ran out to the sofa in the living room near the kitchen. When my alarm went off I had to get ready quickly as the bus came at six forty-five. Iain(pronounced like Ian),who I met last night for the first time was the only other one up, he would be catching a bus fifteen minutes later, I forgot his destination however mine was back to Santiago to buy a few trinkets that I didn't want to carry in my backpack till the last minute.
This morning was difficult for me, it was not surprising to me, I knew all along I would question if returning to Santiago was the right thing to do. With that said I really had no choice a bus takes you to Santiago and from there you need to get to the airport. I was the only person on the bus at its first pick-up of the day...I never thought to ask how long the trip was and I also assumed this bus went from Muxia to Santiago with no confusing stops in between. About fifteen minutes into my ride the bus stopped and picked up a college aged kid, one of many that would hop on over the fifteen or so stops. I was so tired, it was dark, the windows had condensation on them and i had no idea where I was. At one point half of the bus departed and I asked the disgruntled female bus driver, " where is Santiago?" In broken English, for some reason I feel like people understand me more if I speak English broken up (obviously a false assumption, but like many others I can not break the habit). She motioned this was the stop...I asked where was the cathedral and she pointed up to the left. I hopped off headed up the hill with a good half of my backpack weight being rocks...
I stopped for coffee and a huge glass of fresh squeezed orange juice (man am I going to miss this routine). I would then head back out and get one block to this adorable bar that advertised 'chocolate con churros' that is a thick chocolate milk with some sugar pastry for dipping, I looked behind me to make sure no one from the previous joint would actually see me go one block and reenter yet another place for food or drink (did I say I am going to miss this routine?).
I was inside, chilled but confused as to how to spend my day, it was about nine thirty in the morning and I felt I needed to depart Santiago at about three to be at the airport for my six fifteen PM flight. I honestly wanted to buy my waymark tile with the shell and check myself into a place to sleep. It did cross my mind how fulfilling my days had been for six plus weeks and how here it was ending with me possibly sleeping the day away, I have only napped forty five minutes once on this Camino.
I had a gorgeous window table, old style small round table infront of a pub looking window with stainedglass. I had a great people watching view, and knew instantly that i never gave Santiago the credit it deserved, my twenty six hours here had been in the rain and it only appeared to have tourist shops selling the same thing from each shop. I was now in a part of town that I didn't know existed and it had your typical city flair and trendy shops (think of the money I saved).
Outside passes a guy who I suspect is a pilgrim, I would find out he lost his wife to cancer three years ago and she was sixty six, so I assume he was a very healthy seventy. He was in athletic wear and boots and just looked like a pilgrim. He comes in the door comes straight to my table (backpack shared I was a pilgrim) and he asked if he could join me, I actually was five seconds away from getting up, my drink was done but I said,"sure". We got to talking and I shared that I thought I was going to just check into an auberge and sleep, at which point he shared he was at a hotel and said he would be running errands for a few hours and would be out in the town if I wanted to nap at his hotel, he then shared there was a twenty five year old German boy sharing his room but that he'd sleep awhile longer and that it would be no problem. I was sooooo tempted to take him up on this offer...but then he shared they were celebrating a gals 60th birthday at tweleve thirty and invited me. While I was tired I knew this was the best thing to do on my last day, and it kept me in pilgrim mode for another day, I would of course know no one...I had arrived to Santiago ten days ago, these folks were clearly another wave, little to no chance our Venn Diagrams related. he needed help making signs and had negotiated with a restaurant for a special meal price for this fellow pilgrim, I don't think there was any romance involved I just think this guy, David from England was a super nice guy to do this for the gal. He then offered, " do you want to take a bath in our hotel room?", with a reminder he'd be out in the town and that his twenty something walking partner didn't come in until eight this morning so he certainly would not be waking up. UMMM no thought process involved, I've had two baths in almost seven weeks and I teared up for both they felt do good...I screamed," yes".
The water was hot, the hotels soap was glorious and they had this "thing" that blows out air and dries your hair (who would have imagined such a thing existed :)). That was a Camino first...a blowdryer.
I went downstairs where David (funny I started with a David from England and it appeared would be ending with a David from England)was finishing up some last minute birthday party details. I was in awe and always will be on his thoughtfulness to do this for a fellow pilgrim. He walked thru the town looking for a birthday sign to hang up and then negotiated a birthday menu at a place his group liked there...I was just floored at his willingness and attention to detail to celebrate a fellow pilgrims birthday. While downstairs the elevator door opens and there was Ben who started his Camino in Paris, Ben who almost always sleeps outside here in a nice hotel. We hugged eachother and bless his heart a hotel with shower did him good. I had seen him two days earlier in Finesterre and he shared his parents were due in that afternoon...he and two others had enjoyed a cafe con leche and then the next stop was Brandy alittle before ten AM. Ben is one of the younger crew that I ran into often and for some reason I just really liked him, I think because he Skyped with my kiddos one day and he had the same leather hat I had bought for the trip. I was shocked to see Ben, Santiago no longer seemed to contain my pilgrims which was why I didn't really wantvto reenter it. I assumed he was the last of the last I would see from my days (folks were either home having arrived a good ten days before or possibly lingering at the coast). Father (the priest) would be walking back to Santiago with an arrival date of Saturday so I would miss him by one day. I was thrilled though for the opportunity to broaden my horizons and meet this new crew who started more than a week behind us.
David and I went to the cathedral to meet "his gals" an adorable group of three women, I know two were American. He and I got lost in the different alleys trying to find the restaurant, I was of no help as my time in Santiago was all rain and limited to a small section of the city. It was important to him to have his banner up. As we were lost I kept passing stores that I wanted to shop in...I was down to my last four hours of my Camino. I was in wonderful company and felt fortunate to be included in their lunch (pilgrims include but remember I wanted to sleep my hours away as I missed "my" crew so.)
I have had a wish over and over for weeks now...in fact I have said if I could only see Big Bear and Little Bear one last time my Camino would be complete (John and his son Johnnie from my first week), it was all I felt I needed.
At half past noon heading to the restaurant with David I glance to my left and there I let out a loud gasp ...there angled facing right at me was Big Bear and a delightful injured friend I had heard he was hanging with from Boston. They joined us at the restaurant for coffee but I made the decision to forgo the party ( but did get to meet the happy birthday girl) and to spend my final hours with Jim and John over lunch and shopping. We don't know where Little Bear is, I suspect the coast but they will reunite at the airport Sunday.
My Camino came full circle and It exceeded all expectations.
Sunday I will update the coast days AND POST PICTURES...I know the ladies want to see my cute Burgos police officers above all else.
I am in the Paris airport sleeping here for the night (should be easy with my adventures) and I catch a plane out at seven in the morning for home.
I miss my home and family!!!!!!!!!!
If he's a pilgrim and you are a pilgrim than the ONLY answer is "yes"...choosing the bath over the nap probably.
I woke up in Muxia today at five minutes past six, for some reason that five minutes makes me think I am buying a lot more sleep. I didn't get to bed last night till about midnight. I had a rough night of sleep, it has nothing to do with the awesome accomodations, this auberge can not be topped, but there was a really loud snorer that earplugs could not help, not only did he snore like a champ but he grunted and was just restless. At two thirty I had an escape route already in place and ran out to the sofa in the living room near the kitchen. When my alarm went off I had to get ready quickly as the bus came at six forty-five. Iain(pronounced like Ian),who I met last night for the first time was the only other one up, he would be catching a bus fifteen minutes later, I forgot his destination however mine was back to Santiago to buy a few trinkets that I didn't want to carry in my backpack till the last minute.
This morning was difficult for me, it was not surprising to me, I knew all along I would question if returning to Santiago was the right thing to do. With that said I really had no choice a bus takes you to Santiago and from there you need to get to the airport. I was the only person on the bus at its first pick-up of the day...I never thought to ask how long the trip was and I also assumed this bus went from Muxia to Santiago with no confusing stops in between. About fifteen minutes into my ride the bus stopped and picked up a college aged kid, one of many that would hop on over the fifteen or so stops. I was so tired, it was dark, the windows had condensation on them and i had no idea where I was. At one point half of the bus departed and I asked the disgruntled female bus driver, " where is Santiago?" In broken English, for some reason I feel like people understand me more if I speak English broken up (obviously a false assumption, but like many others I can not break the habit). She motioned this was the stop...I asked where was the cathedral and she pointed up to the left. I hopped off headed up the hill with a good half of my backpack weight being rocks...
I stopped for coffee and a huge glass of fresh squeezed orange juice (man am I going to miss this routine). I would then head back out and get one block to this adorable bar that advertised 'chocolate con churros' that is a thick chocolate milk with some sugar pastry for dipping, I looked behind me to make sure no one from the previous joint would actually see me go one block and reenter yet another place for food or drink (did I say I am going to miss this routine?).
I was inside, chilled but confused as to how to spend my day, it was about nine thirty in the morning and I felt I needed to depart Santiago at about three to be at the airport for my six fifteen PM flight. I honestly wanted to buy my waymark tile with the shell and check myself into a place to sleep. It did cross my mind how fulfilling my days had been for six plus weeks and how here it was ending with me possibly sleeping the day away, I have only napped forty five minutes once on this Camino.
I had a gorgeous window table, old style small round table infront of a pub looking window with stainedglass. I had a great people watching view, and knew instantly that i never gave Santiago the credit it deserved, my twenty six hours here had been in the rain and it only appeared to have tourist shops selling the same thing from each shop. I was now in a part of town that I didn't know existed and it had your typical city flair and trendy shops (think of the money I saved).
Outside passes a guy who I suspect is a pilgrim, I would find out he lost his wife to cancer three years ago and she was sixty six, so I assume he was a very healthy seventy. He was in athletic wear and boots and just looked like a pilgrim. He comes in the door comes straight to my table (backpack shared I was a pilgrim) and he asked if he could join me, I actually was five seconds away from getting up, my drink was done but I said,"sure". We got to talking and I shared that I thought I was going to just check into an auberge and sleep, at which point he shared he was at a hotel and said he would be running errands for a few hours and would be out in the town if I wanted to nap at his hotel, he then shared there was a twenty five year old German boy sharing his room but that he'd sleep awhile longer and that it would be no problem. I was sooooo tempted to take him up on this offer...but then he shared they were celebrating a gals 60th birthday at tweleve thirty and invited me. While I was tired I knew this was the best thing to do on my last day, and it kept me in pilgrim mode for another day, I would of course know no one...I had arrived to Santiago ten days ago, these folks were clearly another wave, little to no chance our Venn Diagrams related. he needed help making signs and had negotiated with a restaurant for a special meal price for this fellow pilgrim, I don't think there was any romance involved I just think this guy, David from England was a super nice guy to do this for the gal. He then offered, " do you want to take a bath in our hotel room?", with a reminder he'd be out in the town and that his twenty something walking partner didn't come in until eight this morning so he certainly would not be waking up. UMMM no thought process involved, I've had two baths in almost seven weeks and I teared up for both they felt do good...I screamed," yes".
The water was hot, the hotels soap was glorious and they had this "thing" that blows out air and dries your hair (who would have imagined such a thing existed :)). That was a Camino first...a blowdryer.
I went downstairs where David (funny I started with a David from England and it appeared would be ending with a David from England)was finishing up some last minute birthday party details. I was in awe and always will be on his thoughtfulness to do this for a fellow pilgrim. He walked thru the town looking for a birthday sign to hang up and then negotiated a birthday menu at a place his group liked there...I was just floored at his willingness and attention to detail to celebrate a fellow pilgrims birthday. While downstairs the elevator door opens and there was Ben who started his Camino in Paris, Ben who almost always sleeps outside here in a nice hotel. We hugged eachother and bless his heart a hotel with shower did him good. I had seen him two days earlier in Finesterre and he shared his parents were due in that afternoon...he and two others had enjoyed a cafe con leche and then the next stop was Brandy alittle before ten AM. Ben is one of the younger crew that I ran into often and for some reason I just really liked him, I think because he Skyped with my kiddos one day and he had the same leather hat I had bought for the trip. I was shocked to see Ben, Santiago no longer seemed to contain my pilgrims which was why I didn't really wantvto reenter it. I assumed he was the last of the last I would see from my days (folks were either home having arrived a good ten days before or possibly lingering at the coast). Father (the priest) would be walking back to Santiago with an arrival date of Saturday so I would miss him by one day. I was thrilled though for the opportunity to broaden my horizons and meet this new crew who started more than a week behind us.
David and I went to the cathedral to meet "his gals" an adorable group of three women, I know two were American. He and I got lost in the different alleys trying to find the restaurant, I was of no help as my time in Santiago was all rain and limited to a small section of the city. It was important to him to have his banner up. As we were lost I kept passing stores that I wanted to shop in...I was down to my last four hours of my Camino. I was in wonderful company and felt fortunate to be included in their lunch (pilgrims include but remember I wanted to sleep my hours away as I missed "my" crew so.)
I have had a wish over and over for weeks now...in fact I have said if I could only see Big Bear and Little Bear one last time my Camino would be complete (John and his son Johnnie from my first week), it was all I felt I needed.
At half past noon heading to the restaurant with David I glance to my left and there I let out a loud gasp ...there angled facing right at me was Big Bear and a delightful injured friend I had heard he was hanging with from Boston. They joined us at the restaurant for coffee but I made the decision to forgo the party ( but did get to meet the happy birthday girl) and to spend my final hours with Jim and John over lunch and shopping. We don't know where Little Bear is, I suspect the coast but they will reunite at the airport Sunday.
My Camino came full circle and It exceeded all expectations.
Sunday I will update the coast days AND POST PICTURES...I know the ladies want to see my cute Burgos police officers above all else.
I am in the Paris airport sleeping here for the night (should be easy with my adventures) and I catch a plane out at seven in the morning for home.
I miss my home and family!!!!!!!!!!
Tuesday, October 16, 2012
STAGE THIRTY ONE: To Santiago
Today is the day we arrive to Santiago...the real threat of rain looms everywhere. The three of us are not use to hopping up and walking within seconds IF GIVEN THE CHOICE, but we are a powerhouse and we do know what we need to do to pull something of...we needed to be out by seven to assure a noon mass. The threat of not making mass would hang over us for this walk, however we knew we could make it tomorrow and leave for the coast after, we also knew making it tomorrow would have us arrive with our party group from last night.
A Spanish buddy who I call "The Ambassador" would come by and stir us to assure we got up, at six thirty we were up and packing while everyone else around us slept.
We did stop for a quick coffee and didn't know how to gauge our stops in fear we would arrive to mass late. What is confusing is there are signs that say Santiago is twenty kilometers away BUT you have to factor in how far the cathedral is as I think these reference the city perimeter and I think that the cathedral is an additional five kilometers. Our walk we were told would take about five hours. We were so eager...
We passed the last auberge that our group from the night before would be staying at tonight for "the big party", they described it well as it was really on top of the hill right before you get into the city. We all agreed we would never regret our decision to press on. There was a nice park there with so many people relaxed knowing this was their destination tonight, we had the exact opposite energy going on within us as we felt we couldn't stop. Even my usual conversations with every dog and cat were stunted today. Once we hit the city limits of the city we were on full charge, everywhere you walk in Spain the cathedral or church is the first thing you see...not in Santiago...infact I was convinced there wasn't even a cathedral in this city. What on Earth were these pilgrims walking to for a thousand plus years? Not a cathedral in sight AND keep in mind we were standing on top of a hill five kilometers out that overlooked Santiago...what kind of pilgrim torture was this? Were we even in Santiago?????
We meandered thru the streets and had pilgrims walking past us the other way, all smiling for it was clear they had reached their destination possibly days before and were just lingering, they'd throw us a bone, "you're near", "almost there", "about two more kilometers". Then with no cathedral in sight still and suspecting it was about ten minutes away it started to rain...a huge decision to make, do we just go for it and get drenched or pull over and gear up. Gearing up involves covering your backpack and pulling out your rain gear that should be at the top of your bag on days that you might need it. J and M would use nice rain ponchos that cover them and pack, I would use a jacket and the backpack cover (this is one of the biggest questions and decisions that one must make when planning their purchases). We would make the correct decision to pullover and batten down the hatches. We were full steam ahead when around a corner we see a church wall and approach to come around the cathedral, we had fourteen minutes till mass, the courtyard was semi clear as folks had moved in and J and I got emotional. I suspect had there not been rain combined with seeing familiar faces in the courtyard on a sunny day that the tears would have really flowed. We high fived eachother and hugged eachother so proud of our accomplishments.
We tried to enter the cathedral from the main entrance and were motioned to walk AROUND it to another door. I think we were disoriented and just wanted entry, it wouldn 't be till later we would find out why...but thanks be to God as that instruction would be the cherry of my Camino. This is a rather large cathedral...we would walk to this other door and walk into a packed, standing room only mass, we had been motioned to go around because the main area was full. It might sit a thousand but I am going to guess it was at atleast twenty five percent of what it sits standing. The obvious choice was to enter through that door and to stand in the back where all others were, we were minutes if that before mass was to start. A nun was up at the alter speaking in Spanish and I instantly noticed some pilgrims ip front before the first pew. I caught the attention of J and M (I'm always the opportunist) and urged them to follow me. The emotions and the feeling of anything is possible poured from me, we were soaking wet and high as a kite with enthusiasm, I later would describe it as the feeling a Super Bowl winner must feel as they funnel into the locker room after the game. There was something very powerful entering that cathedral seconds before mass right off the trail and surrounded by tourist there to witness the mass but not having the vested interest we all did. We were dripping wet as it had just started raining ten minutes prior others were dry. We marched up to the front where several people were grimacing that we can't do that...we smiled and pretty much had the attitude that we would do it till authority told us otherwise. We sat there infront of the pews but did swell into the nave area so I felt we would be told to move but I already had a plan B up my sleeve, an escape route that kept us ip there IN THE FRONT but just not exactly where we were. More than a thousand people in this cathedral and we were right up there in the front. The huge incense canister hung from its usual position and I hoped it would swing today, it would have just made the arrival perfect. Security did come thru and told us we needed to keep the aisle clear and i must have had a lapse in my typical opportunist way as I surrendered and started walking to the back of the church. As I did i made eye contact with one person in the muddle section of the pews, it was Bond (from my first days, who had to go home due to a bad blister infection) but had returned to Santiago for mass and to walk to the coast. Ever the gentleman he gestured for me to take his spot in his coveted seat and that he would go back and stand, there is no way I would have taken him up on that but the gesture meant the World to me. I gestured back I was soaking wet and couldn't squeeze in there without getting everyone wet around him. I then glanced back to see J and M were not behind me, I jumped for joy at their rebellion and put my nose in the air and walked right back up to the front of the church and just squished in to try to stay out of the aisle.
J and M had not met my Irish crew of Father, Tom and Mary but they knew they meant a lot to me and I so imagined that I would share this moment with them as well.
THEN two rows of priest walk in robed and stand up behind the main priest and I let out a gasp...there at the alter is Father!!!!!!! Who had arrived the day before literally facing where I was standing...this meant the World to me to see him there. We gad a few other interactions with the professional/appropriate security guard but managed to keep her happy enough where we were allowed to stay. Towards the end I saw someone in a maroon robe grab a shovel of sorts with some kind of paper on it... I turned to M and said, "it's gonna fly...they are lighting the bufermerio". The handlers of it took their place and the beauty of it swinging thru the cathedral can never be described. I don't know what they were singing but it sounded like our American song about the Statue of Liberty that references "I lift my lamp beside the golden door" (now I question if I have that songs association correct but I remember being in Germany as a child and learning that in second grade).
I have had the PERFECT Camino...nothing not one second of it would I change...I feel so blessed.
When mass was done Father came down and joined us and many friends gathered around for pictures, he got us to our auberge, simple but clean and we exhaled.
I has heard about a great restaurant to get their thick hot chocolate, my kids were waiting for this moment...and we were thrilled with our meal there.
Tomorrow we would go to the cathedral welcome friends in and leave for the coast. We of course had the chance to do mass again but I could not dare after the perfect experience today.
It would continue to rain while in Santiago just drizzles but enough to not really allow us to investigate every nook and cranny. I might not be describing it accurately because of the rain but Santiago is no Burgos or leon...I'm just seeing tourist shops of items made in China. In otherwords after welcoming in pilgrims tomorrow I'm ready to hit the coast, which has always been my main goal. To do it with J and M is icing on the cake.
A Spanish buddy who I call "The Ambassador" would come by and stir us to assure we got up, at six thirty we were up and packing while everyone else around us slept.
We did stop for a quick coffee and didn't know how to gauge our stops in fear we would arrive to mass late. What is confusing is there are signs that say Santiago is twenty kilometers away BUT you have to factor in how far the cathedral is as I think these reference the city perimeter and I think that the cathedral is an additional five kilometers. Our walk we were told would take about five hours. We were so eager...
We passed the last auberge that our group from the night before would be staying at tonight for "the big party", they described it well as it was really on top of the hill right before you get into the city. We all agreed we would never regret our decision to press on. There was a nice park there with so many people relaxed knowing this was their destination tonight, we had the exact opposite energy going on within us as we felt we couldn't stop. Even my usual conversations with every dog and cat were stunted today. Once we hit the city limits of the city we were on full charge, everywhere you walk in Spain the cathedral or church is the first thing you see...not in Santiago...infact I was convinced there wasn't even a cathedral in this city. What on Earth were these pilgrims walking to for a thousand plus years? Not a cathedral in sight AND keep in mind we were standing on top of a hill five kilometers out that overlooked Santiago...what kind of pilgrim torture was this? Were we even in Santiago?????
We meandered thru the streets and had pilgrims walking past us the other way, all smiling for it was clear they had reached their destination possibly days before and were just lingering, they'd throw us a bone, "you're near", "almost there", "about two more kilometers". Then with no cathedral in sight still and suspecting it was about ten minutes away it started to rain...a huge decision to make, do we just go for it and get drenched or pull over and gear up. Gearing up involves covering your backpack and pulling out your rain gear that should be at the top of your bag on days that you might need it. J and M would use nice rain ponchos that cover them and pack, I would use a jacket and the backpack cover (this is one of the biggest questions and decisions that one must make when planning their purchases). We would make the correct decision to pullover and batten down the hatches. We were full steam ahead when around a corner we see a church wall and approach to come around the cathedral, we had fourteen minutes till mass, the courtyard was semi clear as folks had moved in and J and I got emotional. I suspect had there not been rain combined with seeing familiar faces in the courtyard on a sunny day that the tears would have really flowed. We high fived eachother and hugged eachother so proud of our accomplishments.
We tried to enter the cathedral from the main entrance and were motioned to walk AROUND it to another door. I think we were disoriented and just wanted entry, it wouldn 't be till later we would find out why...but thanks be to God as that instruction would be the cherry of my Camino. This is a rather large cathedral...we would walk to this other door and walk into a packed, standing room only mass, we had been motioned to go around because the main area was full. It might sit a thousand but I am going to guess it was at atleast twenty five percent of what it sits standing. The obvious choice was to enter through that door and to stand in the back where all others were, we were minutes if that before mass was to start. A nun was up at the alter speaking in Spanish and I instantly noticed some pilgrims ip front before the first pew. I caught the attention of J and M (I'm always the opportunist) and urged them to follow me. The emotions and the feeling of anything is possible poured from me, we were soaking wet and high as a kite with enthusiasm, I later would describe it as the feeling a Super Bowl winner must feel as they funnel into the locker room after the game. There was something very powerful entering that cathedral seconds before mass right off the trail and surrounded by tourist there to witness the mass but not having the vested interest we all did. We were dripping wet as it had just started raining ten minutes prior others were dry. We marched up to the front where several people were grimacing that we can't do that...we smiled and pretty much had the attitude that we would do it till authority told us otherwise. We sat there infront of the pews but did swell into the nave area so I felt we would be told to move but I already had a plan B up my sleeve, an escape route that kept us ip there IN THE FRONT but just not exactly where we were. More than a thousand people in this cathedral and we were right up there in the front. The huge incense canister hung from its usual position and I hoped it would swing today, it would have just made the arrival perfect. Security did come thru and told us we needed to keep the aisle clear and i must have had a lapse in my typical opportunist way as I surrendered and started walking to the back of the church. As I did i made eye contact with one person in the muddle section of the pews, it was Bond (from my first days, who had to go home due to a bad blister infection) but had returned to Santiago for mass and to walk to the coast. Ever the gentleman he gestured for me to take his spot in his coveted seat and that he would go back and stand, there is no way I would have taken him up on that but the gesture meant the World to me. I gestured back I was soaking wet and couldn't squeeze in there without getting everyone wet around him. I then glanced back to see J and M were not behind me, I jumped for joy at their rebellion and put my nose in the air and walked right back up to the front of the church and just squished in to try to stay out of the aisle.
J and M had not met my Irish crew of Father, Tom and Mary but they knew they meant a lot to me and I so imagined that I would share this moment with them as well.
THEN two rows of priest walk in robed and stand up behind the main priest and I let out a gasp...there at the alter is Father!!!!!!! Who had arrived the day before literally facing where I was standing...this meant the World to me to see him there. We gad a few other interactions with the professional/appropriate security guard but managed to keep her happy enough where we were allowed to stay. Towards the end I saw someone in a maroon robe grab a shovel of sorts with some kind of paper on it... I turned to M and said, "it's gonna fly...they are lighting the bufermerio". The handlers of it took their place and the beauty of it swinging thru the cathedral can never be described. I don't know what they were singing but it sounded like our American song about the Statue of Liberty that references "I lift my lamp beside the golden door" (now I question if I have that songs association correct but I remember being in Germany as a child and learning that in second grade).
I have had the PERFECT Camino...nothing not one second of it would I change...I feel so blessed.
When mass was done Father came down and joined us and many friends gathered around for pictures, he got us to our auberge, simple but clean and we exhaled.
I has heard about a great restaurant to get their thick hot chocolate, my kids were waiting for this moment...and we were thrilled with our meal there.
Tomorrow we would go to the cathedral welcome friends in and leave for the coast. We of course had the chance to do mass again but I could not dare after the perfect experience today.
It would continue to rain while in Santiago just drizzles but enough to not really allow us to investigate every nook and cranny. I might not be describing it accurately because of the rain but Santiago is no Burgos or leon...I'm just seeing tourist shops of items made in China. In otherwords after welcoming in pilgrims tomorrow I'm ready to hit the coast, which has always been my main goal. To do it with J and M is icing on the cake.
STAGE THIRTY: Ribadiso to Arca
More rain in the forecast...we had been so spoiled. There is so much excitement in the air...Santiago is about forty four kilometers away and I have thought we should push through it and go there directly from here. Galacia is so beautiful and all of the farm animals and shepherds tending to them and stone homes shouldn't be rushed. I come and go with thinking we should press on. The famous pilgrims mass is at noon so there is no huge advantage into getting into Santiago tonight. We have pushed ourselves to guarantee a walk to the coast for J and M and I think we are all thrilled we did, I love their company. Today I would be accused of being a "taxigrina" ( vs a pegrina/female pilgrim), one of the young kids W from Wales is questioning how I could possibly be ahead of him, anyone who knows me knows I'm not a taxigrina but i do find the word hilarious.
We had no idea where we would end up today, we wanted to make sure we were only about twenty kilometers out of Santiago so that we could arrive intime for the pilgrims mass at noon. This is an amazing celebration known for its HUGE flying incense that is controlled by about five men as it swings thru the air. Evidently this grande event is not the norm anymore...I don't have my hopes up to witness it but sure would do anything to witness it, i'm wondering if we pull off two masses if our chances would be slightly higher of getting to see this. in my opinion they should always offer this to the pilgrims, if you youtube pilgrims mass you will see what I am talking about, it is spectacular.
We would pull into Arca and see many people we have bonded with, i personally am rejoicing as these are the people that I will be surrounded by as I approach the cathedral. I can't explain the emotions i am feeling and how these dear people mean so much to me. We arrive with a lot of time to kill, a wonderful opportunity to just sit around and catch up or even sit around and meet some people who you recognize but have never really gotten to know.
I'm thrilled when I see Mary approaching, she shares that Father and Tom have gone on to Santiago, they should arrive about eight at night.
Almost everyone is here all in one place. I am super glad to see my young crew back from my Tossntos days...Ben who started in Paris, Paul and others.
The youngters share they are having s party tomorrow "on the hill" five kilometers before Santiago, they will not arrive tomorrow to Santiago, thry will walk less than four hours to thus huge auberge that sleeps five hundred, party and come on into Santiago the next day. They invite us, and a few others chime in they too are going to join them and we decide we can still make the coast and do this. I honestly think it sounds like a lot of fun and we decide to do it.
EVERYONE is excited, the anticipation is huge, I am surrounded by people most of who started where i did but some who started in Paris and one who actually started in Rome at the Vatican...his first stamp in his pilgrims passport is from the Vatican.
I'm getting ready to go to bed when i hear bagpipes...J knows what I am thinking and also thinks John or Johnny is here and i go running out the front door to see where they are... Outside of the auberge is another building where the noise is coming from and in peek inside and it clearly is not them, I suspect this was a local but many of us thought he was never going to stop playing...
The auberge was partying pretty hard this evening, drink was flowing and Paul from France offered mecsome brandy, I've never been a Brandy drinker but enjoyed the time with these pilgrims tgat I have gotten to know over the five plus weeks and tried to enjoy my cup of Brandy. We were all damp, our claustrophobic municipal auberge put on the heat so we could dry our socks and as I was getting into bed I felt a huge desire to go onto Santiago tomorrow and miss the "huge" party, mostly because tonight's atmosphere felt like a party to me and while I loved every second of it I was not convinced I needed two nights of that, J and M agreed.
We needed to wake up and be out the door by seven to make it to mass, almost everyone was sleeping in so we would be in a different situation than normal as we would be the early risers packing in the dark.
I would sadly realize today that i had lost my precious wine glass, tempted to ask Steve to get me another many are telling me to hold off that almost everyone would know it was mine and the chances are high someone just might approach me with it. I actually think I lost it two nights ago in Ligonde.
Our auberge is extremely claustrophobic feeling...and as of tonight I have seen more men in just their underwear than I will ever want to..........
We had no idea where we would end up today, we wanted to make sure we were only about twenty kilometers out of Santiago so that we could arrive intime for the pilgrims mass at noon. This is an amazing celebration known for its HUGE flying incense that is controlled by about five men as it swings thru the air. Evidently this grande event is not the norm anymore...I don't have my hopes up to witness it but sure would do anything to witness it, i'm wondering if we pull off two masses if our chances would be slightly higher of getting to see this. in my opinion they should always offer this to the pilgrims, if you youtube pilgrims mass you will see what I am talking about, it is spectacular.
We would pull into Arca and see many people we have bonded with, i personally am rejoicing as these are the people that I will be surrounded by as I approach the cathedral. I can't explain the emotions i am feeling and how these dear people mean so much to me. We arrive with a lot of time to kill, a wonderful opportunity to just sit around and catch up or even sit around and meet some people who you recognize but have never really gotten to know.
I'm thrilled when I see Mary approaching, she shares that Father and Tom have gone on to Santiago, they should arrive about eight at night.
Almost everyone is here all in one place. I am super glad to see my young crew back from my Tossntos days...Ben who started in Paris, Paul and others.
The youngters share they are having s party tomorrow "on the hill" five kilometers before Santiago, they will not arrive tomorrow to Santiago, thry will walk less than four hours to thus huge auberge that sleeps five hundred, party and come on into Santiago the next day. They invite us, and a few others chime in they too are going to join them and we decide we can still make the coast and do this. I honestly think it sounds like a lot of fun and we decide to do it.
EVERYONE is excited, the anticipation is huge, I am surrounded by people most of who started where i did but some who started in Paris and one who actually started in Rome at the Vatican...his first stamp in his pilgrims passport is from the Vatican.
I'm getting ready to go to bed when i hear bagpipes...J knows what I am thinking and also thinks John or Johnny is here and i go running out the front door to see where they are... Outside of the auberge is another building where the noise is coming from and in peek inside and it clearly is not them, I suspect this was a local but many of us thought he was never going to stop playing...
The auberge was partying pretty hard this evening, drink was flowing and Paul from France offered mecsome brandy, I've never been a Brandy drinker but enjoyed the time with these pilgrims tgat I have gotten to know over the five plus weeks and tried to enjoy my cup of Brandy. We were all damp, our claustrophobic municipal auberge put on the heat so we could dry our socks and as I was getting into bed I felt a huge desire to go onto Santiago tomorrow and miss the "huge" party, mostly because tonight's atmosphere felt like a party to me and while I loved every second of it I was not convinced I needed two nights of that, J and M agreed.
We needed to wake up and be out the door by seven to make it to mass, almost everyone was sleeping in so we would be in a different situation than normal as we would be the early risers packing in the dark.
I would sadly realize today that i had lost my precious wine glass, tempted to ask Steve to get me another many are telling me to hold off that almost everyone would know it was mine and the chances are high someone just might approach me with it. I actually think I lost it two nights ago in Ligonde.
Our auberge is extremely claustrophobic feeling...and as of tonight I have seen more men in just their underwear than I will ever want to..........
STAGE TWENTY NINE: Ligonde to Ribadiso
We got up from Ligonde later than most, a lot of the folks staying at our place were early risers. Funny thing is this auberge was built pretty much on top of a hen house and the roosters were up nice and early. We would go across the way to have out typical coffee, orange juice pastry and start our day. Rain would be in the forecast off and on for the next few days.
Today would be my most stressful day, I knew it would be...it involved going thru a town called Melide known for its octopus at restaurants, I imagined some quaint town with restaurants everywhere serving the dish. I've eaten octopus several times before and had just had some a few days before so that was not a huge deal to me until a few weeks back when I was in Los Arcos. I was at a table with Christian from Canada and shared how I thought this town was going to stress me out, he then added how the octopus at many of the restaurants are alive and they kill them right in front of you and I instantly panicked. There is not much that would disturb me more than that, then in my attempt to just want to avoid the town I could see some fiasco in actually making the whole situation uncomfortable for anyone stuck with me there. I have prepped everyone as to how stressed I am over this...at the time I semi joked to Christian that if I see an octopus about to be killed I know me...I'd offer to purchase the whole thing right then and there throw a pink bow around it and show up at the airport with a new pet. Have you ever seen the youtube video of the precious octopus carrying around a coconut to use as a home? They are fascinating creatures...none the less I certainly don't want to witness one get killed.
It seemed EVERYONE we chatted with was going to stop at Melide for the night, it was a lot to ask J and M to press on thru there, I really tried to appear sane as I was trying to express how difficult this could be for me.
We get to the town and it is far from quaint, M quickly tells me not to walk further as a restaurant is showing off pulling an octopus out of a stew pot, not such an issue as long as i don't have to see it alive one second and dead the next. We get ourselves thru town and run into everyone and I thank them for understanding for we were sll tired and had to press on because of me. J spoke up and also said she had no desire to stay in this town, personally it just felt like death to me. We did hit a grocery store and stopped for soup, we feared as we approached the end of a formal stage that we might have trouble getting a bed but it also appeared everyone was staying in Melide. We walked on and as it was turning dark went over a beautiful bridge with a gorgeous bridge, there in what looked like a small village of beautiful stone homes was a municiple auberge...complete with kitchen and an attached bar/restaurant. The doors were painted robin egg blue like our place near the coast and it was the perfect place to call it a night. I'm really glad we had walked on and was so happy for their understanding. I had walked from Melide with the additional weight of a half of melon which we threw some curd ham on and enjoyed with a bottle of red wine. We would all sleep well as there was good spacing in our auberge with the bed placement, a huge difference between last night and tonight.
Today would be my most stressful day, I knew it would be...it involved going thru a town called Melide known for its octopus at restaurants, I imagined some quaint town with restaurants everywhere serving the dish. I've eaten octopus several times before and had just had some a few days before so that was not a huge deal to me until a few weeks back when I was in Los Arcos. I was at a table with Christian from Canada and shared how I thought this town was going to stress me out, he then added how the octopus at many of the restaurants are alive and they kill them right in front of you and I instantly panicked. There is not much that would disturb me more than that, then in my attempt to just want to avoid the town I could see some fiasco in actually making the whole situation uncomfortable for anyone stuck with me there. I have prepped everyone as to how stressed I am over this...at the time I semi joked to Christian that if I see an octopus about to be killed I know me...I'd offer to purchase the whole thing right then and there throw a pink bow around it and show up at the airport with a new pet. Have you ever seen the youtube video of the precious octopus carrying around a coconut to use as a home? They are fascinating creatures...none the less I certainly don't want to witness one get killed.
It seemed EVERYONE we chatted with was going to stop at Melide for the night, it was a lot to ask J and M to press on thru there, I really tried to appear sane as I was trying to express how difficult this could be for me.
We get to the town and it is far from quaint, M quickly tells me not to walk further as a restaurant is showing off pulling an octopus out of a stew pot, not such an issue as long as i don't have to see it alive one second and dead the next. We get ourselves thru town and run into everyone and I thank them for understanding for we were sll tired and had to press on because of me. J spoke up and also said she had no desire to stay in this town, personally it just felt like death to me. We did hit a grocery store and stopped for soup, we feared as we approached the end of a formal stage that we might have trouble getting a bed but it also appeared everyone was staying in Melide. We walked on and as it was turning dark went over a beautiful bridge with a gorgeous bridge, there in what looked like a small village of beautiful stone homes was a municiple auberge...complete with kitchen and an attached bar/restaurant. The doors were painted robin egg blue like our place near the coast and it was the perfect place to call it a night. I'm really glad we had walked on and was so happy for their understanding. I had walked from Melide with the additional weight of a half of melon which we threw some curd ham on and enjoyed with a bottle of red wine. We would all sleep well as there was good spacing in our auberge with the bed placement, a huge difference between last night and tonight.
STAGE TWENTY EIGHT: Mercadorio to Ligonde
I'm not certain if that spelling is correct, I have alit of proofing once I am home. I have finally figured out hiw to turn off the word recognition with the ipad and my words shouldn't be changed now.
We are battling the rain some, atleast it is not wind and rain but we have bern spoiled thus far with no rain. I continue to walk with J and M and love them dearly. The countryside we are seeing is beautiful, loved animals are everywhere...grass is s lush green, hydrangeas are in bloom everywhere and just about every turn is worthy of a postcard.
We walked thru a neat town today called Portomarin that had the most fabulous bridge, I am running into many old faces and am so happy, no sightings of J and Big J ( Little Bear and big Bear) and from the sounds of it Big Bear is walking with a guy who is injured and might be a good day or teo behind us. We did a killer kilometer day yesterday and would do a normal stage today, slightly off the popular book starting point and end point. The place we stayed in last night was incredible, though we would not to totally enjoy its courtyard etc it was a fabulous place to be noted by anyone reading this and planning their trip..
It is a huge gift getting to walk with J, a mama who has/is raising three children, two out of the home one a successful athlete in highschool. I have been so inspired by the relationship she has with M, last night she was asleep in the bed bedside me and he was one bed over from her (we had a room to ourselves) and M stayed up journaling and his mom was asleep . I was done blogging (too tired actually to blog any longer) and he turned off the light but without going over to his mom (asleep and oblivious) and gave her a kiss. He reminds me of my oldest , R, who I thought might do the same.
We didn't have a destination today and Squiddly Diddly would be out infront of an auberge when we were not totally ready to call it quits. Since we start later than others we do joke that we need to walk further on eachnight so we are walking with them the next day , as they catch up with us.
J and I would talk about everything, i don't think anything and everything, yesterday a lit of the conversation was about my kiddos, family and life today was an awesome opportunity to learn more about J. She shared how one of her best friends had died of cancer sometime back, a mom featured on Oprah for making videos when she knew it was the end for her daughter. WE both choked up, I remembered this show and remembered a mom who also did midnight snacks of cheerios with her daughter. I assured j that her friend has influenced my parenting, my kids enjoy "midnight snacks" of Oreos and i have never served them without thinking of thus show and these wonderful mothers. J wrote a book that she is going to share with me once home, the topic interest me so much. We spoke of death of loved ones (which she has so much more experience than I do with) but the weirdest thing happened while we talking about a sensitive topic...I for some reason notice everything on the ground, infact wanted to write a blog post on that topic alone. But I notice the ants and anything in my path, and have taken great care not to step on them as in my eyes they are on their own
We are battling the rain some, atleast it is not wind and rain but we have bern spoiled thus far with no rain. I continue to walk with J and M and love them dearly. The countryside we are seeing is beautiful, loved animals are everywhere...grass is s lush green, hydrangeas are in bloom everywhere and just about every turn is worthy of a postcard.
We walked thru a neat town today called Portomarin that had the most fabulous bridge, I am running into many old faces and am so happy, no sightings of J and Big J ( Little Bear and big Bear) and from the sounds of it Big Bear is walking with a guy who is injured and might be a good day or teo behind us. We did a killer kilometer day yesterday and would do a normal stage today, slightly off the popular book starting point and end point. The place we stayed in last night was incredible, though we would not to totally enjoy its courtyard etc it was a fabulous place to be noted by anyone reading this and planning their trip..
It is a huge gift getting to walk with J, a mama who has/is raising three children, two out of the home one a successful athlete in highschool. I have been so inspired by the relationship she has with M, last night she was asleep in the bed bedside me and he was one bed over from her (we had a room to ourselves) and M stayed up journaling and his mom was asleep . I was done blogging (too tired actually to blog any longer) and he turned off the light but without going over to his mom (asleep and oblivious) and gave her a kiss. He reminds me of my oldest , R, who I thought might do the same.
We didn't have a destination today and Squiddly Diddly would be out infront of an auberge when we were not totally ready to call it quits. Since we start later than others we do joke that we need to walk further on eachnight so we are walking with them the next day , as they catch up with us.
J and I would talk about everything, i don't think anything and everything, yesterday a lit of the conversation was about my kiddos, family and life today was an awesome opportunity to learn more about J. She shared how one of her best friends had died of cancer sometime back, a mom featured on Oprah for making videos when she knew it was the end for her daughter. WE both choked up, I remembered this show and remembered a mom who also did midnight snacks of cheerios with her daughter. I assured j that her friend has influenced my parenting, my kids enjoy "midnight snacks" of Oreos and i have never served them without thinking of thus show and these wonderful mothers. J wrote a book that she is going to share with me once home, the topic interest me so much. We spoke of death of loved ones (which she has so much more experience than I do with) but the weirdest thing happened while we talking about a sensitive topic...I for some reason notice everything on the ground, infact wanted to write a blog post on that topic alone. But I notice the ants and anything in my path, and have taken great care not to step on them as in my eyes they are on their own
Friday, October 12, 2012
STAGE TWENTY SEVEN: Triacastela to Mercadoiro
Whew what a day. I slept well, noticed the sun was out and slightly freaked in that I was supposed to meet J and M out in front of my auberge at 8:15, the sun rises after 8 do I felt I had missed them but had comfort we'd meet up in route over coffee or something. I got up and did the quick dance to the bathroom, I always pick the top bunk as I feel it is more ventilated but because of this I hold my pee all night as to not wake up everyone. That might be way more information than anyone wants to hear BUT talking of pee, blisters, stench and gas is common talk out here...I guess you take away all of our luxuries equip us with just the stuff to survive and work your body hard that is what it all boils down to. When I got out of the bathroom someone shared I had a note on my bed, ends up M and J left it for me when I was asleep and it said "we know you need your sleep from your long walk yesterday so we'll see you on the way ". Lucky for me they decided to stop and get coffee and a breakfast and then they swung by again. They waited for me to pack and for me to run get a coffee and then we were off...I love these two.
The landscapes were stunning, my group would stop and smell the roses, talk to the dogs and cats and I was in the company I needed to be in. While I have loved these two since early in my travels I never really knew them and was so glad to finally get to know them. We spoke of our children and it was so nice to get this opportunity as you don't get it often here for some reason. J and her hubby have raised the most marvelous son in M, he is 19 and an old soul they have the most dynamic relationship and J is such an inspiration to me as a mom, the mutual respect these two give to each other is beautiful. Amazingly they had watch the movie THE WAY and said,"let's do it" and in two weeks were feet on the ground in St. Jean. They have my original fly out date of the sixteenth and we chatted how if we picked up the pace a bit and alleviated a full stage or so and got to Santiago on the tenth we would have enough time to get to the coast via walking...we got on it and we're off with this mission.
At about six thirty or so it appeared it might start to sprinkle, we had no definite end point in site but I had marked a nice auberge off in my book so that was our tentative plan. When it appeared it was about to rain and we saw a very nice looking auberge we stopped hoping to get a room...many people were relaxed and drinking and it ended up the place was "complete", which means full. We donned rain gear and headed off...about an hour later we found another auberge that was full as well but when we showed her the book with my original spot on it the owner was kind enough to call them...they had rooms and urged us to come on now, we figured we were ninety minutes away. We think they said get there by nine. We had to walk in the dark thru dome woods on rocky trails, M and I were proud to sport our headlamps as it justified their purchase and more importantly carrying around their weight for all of these days. We pulled up to this gorgeous auberge that looked like an old stone building that a skilled architect had added to and made it a haven to stay at. Lights were on in the courtyard, not a soul in the bar...we looked in the windows and not a person appeared to be staying there. It was 9:02...we had no idea what to do. We knocked on the windows and doors to no avail, a frog presented himself and went under the door to the inside. I was pretty certain we were going to be sleeping outside and was already picking out the three spots that would supply us a bed when the door opened and a pilgrim staying the night on the top floor let us in, we picked three wonderful beds in a room in a far off corner with huge stone walls and felt like the luckiest people in the world. As I crawled into bed there near the door beside my bed (a door made into a window) was Mr. Frog,M got a chuckle as I said without noticing I did do , "hey handsome " to the frog. We all slept great.
The landscapes were stunning, my group would stop and smell the roses, talk to the dogs and cats and I was in the company I needed to be in. While I have loved these two since early in my travels I never really knew them and was so glad to finally get to know them. We spoke of our children and it was so nice to get this opportunity as you don't get it often here for some reason. J and her hubby have raised the most marvelous son in M, he is 19 and an old soul they have the most dynamic relationship and J is such an inspiration to me as a mom, the mutual respect these two give to each other is beautiful. Amazingly they had watch the movie THE WAY and said,"let's do it" and in two weeks were feet on the ground in St. Jean. They have my original fly out date of the sixteenth and we chatted how if we picked up the pace a bit and alleviated a full stage or so and got to Santiago on the tenth we would have enough time to get to the coast via walking...we got on it and we're off with this mission.
At about six thirty or so it appeared it might start to sprinkle, we had no definite end point in site but I had marked a nice auberge off in my book so that was our tentative plan. When it appeared it was about to rain and we saw a very nice looking auberge we stopped hoping to get a room...many people were relaxed and drinking and it ended up the place was "complete", which means full. We donned rain gear and headed off...about an hour later we found another auberge that was full as well but when we showed her the book with my original spot on it the owner was kind enough to call them...they had rooms and urged us to come on now, we figured we were ninety minutes away. We think they said get there by nine. We had to walk in the dark thru dome woods on rocky trails, M and I were proud to sport our headlamps as it justified their purchase and more importantly carrying around their weight for all of these days. We pulled up to this gorgeous auberge that looked like an old stone building that a skilled architect had added to and made it a haven to stay at. Lights were on in the courtyard, not a soul in the bar...we looked in the windows and not a person appeared to be staying there. It was 9:02...we had no idea what to do. We knocked on the windows and doors to no avail, a frog presented himself and went under the door to the inside. I was pretty certain we were going to be sleeping outside and was already picking out the three spots that would supply us a bed when the door opened and a pilgrim staying the night on the top floor let us in, we picked three wonderful beds in a room in a far off corner with huge stone walls and felt like the luckiest people in the world. As I crawled into bed there near the door beside my bed (a door made into a window) was Mr. Frog,M got a chuckle as I said without noticing I did do , "hey handsome " to the frog. We all slept great.
Wednesday, October 10, 2012
STAGE TWENTY SIX: to Triacastela
Wow what a day...super long but I felt great and am so happy. I left my American girlfriends with a slight dilemma they had all of their stuff to get dried and were negotiating with the hotel owner how exactly to pull that off, he had a washer just not a dryer. I wish I had gotten to them before this man talked them into washing all of their stuff because they had zero signs of bedbugs and he made money off of them charging them to wash their clothes and now they were stuck with wet clothes.
I passed thru some gorgeous small towns today, beautiful stone buildings with colored flowers and flower boxes...I love this stretch, cows are common place and the animals look so loved. I think I officially reach Galacia today, green and gorgeous but known for its rain. I have only had to walk in the rain twenty minutes...I had a whole day of rain after that walk that involved sitting in an auberge all cold and wet, but it was intimate. We are so lucky to not have had to walk in the rain, I think this is very uncommon.
I climbed O'Cebreiro 1200 meters for sixteen kilometers...it was amazing and my strength is so much stronger than the first day. O'Cebreiro was a small place that looked like it belonged in a fairy tale, I actually felt like I had been there before, I know when I was little my parents took me to Santiago but I really wonder if I had been here too. I looked at some gorgeous handmade jewelry and am pretty sure I will get me a little something special to remember my trip. A lot of folks were gathered here eating, many were staying put for the night...I would stop and order octopus from a cute restaurant that looked like it belonged in Hansel and Gretel. I couldn't eat it all but kept getting up out of my chair to take it outside to feed three cats, one pretty badly deformed who I made sure got the most.
As I walked out of the town I questioned two maps and shared with others behind me that I thought there was a Forrest route and we could get out of the road, .they followed me and we were thrilled to get off of the road. One of these guys was George who saved me at the bank and who only knew me crying and stressed when the machine ate my card. he said he told God," please let me meet that girl again so I can see the happy pilgrim I know she is", it was wonderful walking a few hours with him and his nephew.
I would continue on and walk from this point on a full days more hike. George sounded like he had the same plan and while we didn't walk the full thing together it was great to have such a long common goal as this was not a normal undertaking. I was tired I was in the circle or near the circle of friends I had started with and really wanted to finish the trip with the folks I started with. While I had not started with my Irish crew I selfishly wanted to end with them too... With their pace I felt that possible. I was not certain I would see them again but assumed once in Santiago I would as we all do funnel right there into it.
I would walk till about seven tonight and would come to my resting stop fearful there would be no bed available for me...this was the end of a typical stage in a popular book used and ending at these suggested stages could create problems when looking for a bed. I passed right by the public auberge, my gut told me to keep going sniffing out a better spot. Two nice Spanish guys would share they are staying at a wonderful spot and that they were pretty certain it was full but we would go there and double check. There in front with his head in a journal was M from Colorado, mentioned way back when I walked with my two Irish buddies weeks ago. M is a dancer, and while out on injury he and his wonderful mom, gorgeous and a few years older than I am (two kiddos out of the house one in high school) decided to walk the Camino and gave themselves two weeks from "let's do it" to airplane. He ran and got J his mom and we all went to try and find me an auberge, we passed one that didn't sit well with me and then as you leave town there was this most precious auberge that resembled a restored barn, sweet and loved and the gal who checked me in was so proud of it. in this place were many people that I have shared this journey with, my heart filled with warmth. We ran to a grocery store as tomorrows stage had a long part where there was no food or drink available. While at the grocery store I ran into one of my young friends from France, cool P who is super artsy wears his black hair in a ponytail and just super cool. I was trying to catch up information on his group of the youngsters (late twenty something's I think) and he shared dear Adelaide was in the hospital in Ponferedda due to diabetes, I feared it might be from that long day when my last image of her was with my Ukele friend skipping down the path. I teared up to hear this and Paul instantly assured me she would be ok and would of course continue on when out. She started in Brussels in June!
I kissed M and J goodnight and was wandering back to my auberge when I heard what sounded like a private party down an alley. There was a comfortable laughter and lively spirit and I thought I caught a glimpse of my Irish crew...sure enough there they were...then George comes over with a glass of wine for me and I felt some of my dearest pilgrim friends were all here in this same small town and I think I felt the most comfort I have had on this whole trip...things were looking up after two hard days and I felt I was back in my group...the only ones missing were Big Bear and Little Bear who J spotted yesterday so it sounds like they were behind me. And of course Bond...who was back at home post injury but due in Santiago about the time I would arrive to walk to the coast.
I passed thru some gorgeous small towns today, beautiful stone buildings with colored flowers and flower boxes...I love this stretch, cows are common place and the animals look so loved. I think I officially reach Galacia today, green and gorgeous but known for its rain. I have only had to walk in the rain twenty minutes...I had a whole day of rain after that walk that involved sitting in an auberge all cold and wet, but it was intimate. We are so lucky to not have had to walk in the rain, I think this is very uncommon.
I climbed O'Cebreiro 1200 meters for sixteen kilometers...it was amazing and my strength is so much stronger than the first day. O'Cebreiro was a small place that looked like it belonged in a fairy tale, I actually felt like I had been there before, I know when I was little my parents took me to Santiago but I really wonder if I had been here too. I looked at some gorgeous handmade jewelry and am pretty sure I will get me a little something special to remember my trip. A lot of folks were gathered here eating, many were staying put for the night...I would stop and order octopus from a cute restaurant that looked like it belonged in Hansel and Gretel. I couldn't eat it all but kept getting up out of my chair to take it outside to feed three cats, one pretty badly deformed who I made sure got the most.
As I walked out of the town I questioned two maps and shared with others behind me that I thought there was a Forrest route and we could get out of the road, .they followed me and we were thrilled to get off of the road. One of these guys was George who saved me at the bank and who only knew me crying and stressed when the machine ate my card. he said he told God," please let me meet that girl again so I can see the happy pilgrim I know she is", it was wonderful walking a few hours with him and his nephew.
I would continue on and walk from this point on a full days more hike. George sounded like he had the same plan and while we didn't walk the full thing together it was great to have such a long common goal as this was not a normal undertaking. I was tired I was in the circle or near the circle of friends I had started with and really wanted to finish the trip with the folks I started with. While I had not started with my Irish crew I selfishly wanted to end with them too... With their pace I felt that possible. I was not certain I would see them again but assumed once in Santiago I would as we all do funnel right there into it.
I would walk till about seven tonight and would come to my resting stop fearful there would be no bed available for me...this was the end of a typical stage in a popular book used and ending at these suggested stages could create problems when looking for a bed. I passed right by the public auberge, my gut told me to keep going sniffing out a better spot. Two nice Spanish guys would share they are staying at a wonderful spot and that they were pretty certain it was full but we would go there and double check. There in front with his head in a journal was M from Colorado, mentioned way back when I walked with my two Irish buddies weeks ago. M is a dancer, and while out on injury he and his wonderful mom, gorgeous and a few years older than I am (two kiddos out of the house one in high school) decided to walk the Camino and gave themselves two weeks from "let's do it" to airplane. He ran and got J his mom and we all went to try and find me an auberge, we passed one that didn't sit well with me and then as you leave town there was this most precious auberge that resembled a restored barn, sweet and loved and the gal who checked me in was so proud of it. in this place were many people that I have shared this journey with, my heart filled with warmth. We ran to a grocery store as tomorrows stage had a long part where there was no food or drink available. While at the grocery store I ran into one of my young friends from France, cool P who is super artsy wears his black hair in a ponytail and just super cool. I was trying to catch up information on his group of the youngsters (late twenty something's I think) and he shared dear Adelaide was in the hospital in Ponferedda due to diabetes, I feared it might be from that long day when my last image of her was with my Ukele friend skipping down the path. I teared up to hear this and Paul instantly assured me she would be ok and would of course continue on when out. She started in Brussels in June!
I kissed M and J goodnight and was wandering back to my auberge when I heard what sounded like a private party down an alley. There was a comfortable laughter and lively spirit and I thought I caught a glimpse of my Irish crew...sure enough there they were...then George comes over with a glass of wine for me and I felt some of my dearest pilgrim friends were all here in this same small town and I think I felt the most comfort I have had on this whole trip...things were looking up after two hard days and I felt I was back in my group...the only ones missing were Big Bear and Little Bear who J spotted yesterday so it sounds like they were behind me. And of course Bond...who was back at home post injury but due in Santiago about the time I would arrive to walk to the coast.
STAGE TWENTY FIVE: Cacabelos to La Portela de Valcarce
I slept in again at this little spot, not a glamorous spot but the hospitilario Vicente is friends with Carlos from the night before so it was on my radar. At one point as I was hanging my laundry my underwear fell to the ground ( there is little private here in the auberges) and Vicente picked it up and started swinging it over his head, i know the Camino was originally a religious pilgrimage and wondered how does he know i am mot a nun...
Anywho I was one of the last to leave
The next big town was VillaFranca where I really thought I was going to try to make it to last night, had I attempted it it would have been another two hours at least AND rumor is the auberge I was hoping to stay at (a friend of Carlos') had bedbugs. I got to VillaFranca about eleven and imagined that Mary had set out from there a good four and a half hours earlier. I got turned around in VillaFranca and took a wrong turn down a hill, it was no biggie but it threw me off a good forty minutes, fortunately I stopped to get directions at a bike shop where two bike pilgrims were getting something fixed, they were very nice and pointed me in the right direction. I think they were married and I would see them thru out the next two days off and on. Today's route outside of VillaFranca had three options, I actually thought it had two...one a very steep climb over the mountain called The Dragon Net, I actually wanted to do this but the book made reference to this being a good eight or so hours and it was one by the time I was done eating and ready to set back out, three young guys at a bar/restaurant talked me out of it and I back tracked to go up the road where two sweet locals pointed the way. had I not followed the two locals directions I might have noticed there was a third Orion thru the woods...my option took me for hours on the road, this would be my largest Camino disappointment to date. My feet throbbed as I was walked and I finally ended up in the woods. I stopped one time and had a nice conversation with a young guy from Belgium, Squiddly Diddly would also make an appearance. These young European guys on the Camino all roll their own cigarettes, I am amazed with I think no exception that they all smoke. There were a few temptations to stop, usually a pilgrim you recognize already showered with a drink in hand and flip flops on. Sometimes you pass them jealous they are done other times you walk by like you own the World and know something special that they don't.
Tomorrow is the highest elevation to climb so it is best to plan the stop tonight accordingly. My notes show some wonderful auberges coming up but their distance is almost out of reach for the day, though I would certainly try.
I walked past a modern building that was a hotel with an add on auberge, not typically my kind of place being all modern but I overhead two American ladies chatting and turned to see two great women who I had had coffee with just about two days before. They were having the time of their lives, dear friends laughing harder than anyone I have ever witnessed and were dressed in sarongs hanging all of their clothes out to dry (and it was late afternoon). Seems they had stayed in a place they thought might have bedbugs and the host/owner here suggested they wash their clothes. They said how nice this place was, how they justified staying there knowing it was super clean, had a killer menu and that we would be alone in a two bunk bed room. I hopped right on in and had a wonderful evening with these gals. It almost seemed like a break from the Camino as I had never walked with them or really knew them as pilgrims. THe dinner was fabulous, I had trout stuffed with ham and from our window we watched cows graze and a Turkish Anatolian Shephard bark. I slept great, I forgot what time I would wake in the morning, I think about seven or so, the restaurant opened at eight and I would have my typical coffee, orange juice and pastry.
The gals clothes were still damp and as I left they were trying to find a dryer to dry them, we had set up our room with all of the devices to dry but it was still to damp.
I would head out to one of my longest and most beautiful walks yet...
Anywho I was one of the last to leave
The next big town was VillaFranca where I really thought I was going to try to make it to last night, had I attempted it it would have been another two hours at least AND rumor is the auberge I was hoping to stay at (a friend of Carlos') had bedbugs. I got to VillaFranca about eleven and imagined that Mary had set out from there a good four and a half hours earlier. I got turned around in VillaFranca and took a wrong turn down a hill, it was no biggie but it threw me off a good forty minutes, fortunately I stopped to get directions at a bike shop where two bike pilgrims were getting something fixed, they were very nice and pointed me in the right direction. I think they were married and I would see them thru out the next two days off and on. Today's route outside of VillaFranca had three options, I actually thought it had two...one a very steep climb over the mountain called The Dragon Net, I actually wanted to do this but the book made reference to this being a good eight or so hours and it was one by the time I was done eating and ready to set back out, three young guys at a bar/restaurant talked me out of it and I back tracked to go up the road where two sweet locals pointed the way. had I not followed the two locals directions I might have noticed there was a third Orion thru the woods...my option took me for hours on the road, this would be my largest Camino disappointment to date. My feet throbbed as I was walked and I finally ended up in the woods. I stopped one time and had a nice conversation with a young guy from Belgium, Squiddly Diddly would also make an appearance. These young European guys on the Camino all roll their own cigarettes, I am amazed with I think no exception that they all smoke. There were a few temptations to stop, usually a pilgrim you recognize already showered with a drink in hand and flip flops on. Sometimes you pass them jealous they are done other times you walk by like you own the World and know something special that they don't.
Tomorrow is the highest elevation to climb so it is best to plan the stop tonight accordingly. My notes show some wonderful auberges coming up but their distance is almost out of reach for the day, though I would certainly try.
I walked past a modern building that was a hotel with an add on auberge, not typically my kind of place being all modern but I overhead two American ladies chatting and turned to see two great women who I had had coffee with just about two days before. They were having the time of their lives, dear friends laughing harder than anyone I have ever witnessed and were dressed in sarongs hanging all of their clothes out to dry (and it was late afternoon). Seems they had stayed in a place they thought might have bedbugs and the host/owner here suggested they wash their clothes. They said how nice this place was, how they justified staying there knowing it was super clean, had a killer menu and that we would be alone in a two bunk bed room. I hopped right on in and had a wonderful evening with these gals. It almost seemed like a break from the Camino as I had never walked with them or really knew them as pilgrims. THe dinner was fabulous, I had trout stuffed with ham and from our window we watched cows graze and a Turkish Anatolian Shephard bark. I slept great, I forgot what time I would wake in the morning, I think about seven or so, the restaurant opened at eight and I would have my typical coffee, orange juice and pastry.
The gals clothes were still damp and as I left they were trying to find a dryer to dry them, we had set up our room with all of the devices to dry but it was still to damp.
I would head out to one of my longest and most beautiful walks yet...
Tuesday, October 9, 2012
STAGE TWENTY FOUR: Acebo to Cacabelos
This would be one of my hardest days, it sure did start off beautiful though. Carlos urged us to sleep in, not to wake up early but to be out by eight so we could see the pretty sunset. He supplied toast and a coffee that was instant...I skipped the breakfast knowing I would get a cafe con leche enroute. I gave these two wonderful hospillarios a huge hug, I adored them both and it is hosts like this that make the Camino so special. My clothes smell clean for the first time, thank you Carlos! I was off in the dark and enjoyed the sunrise behind me.
There has been talk on the forums about a sweet lady who chases pilgrims in the morning offering them pancakes (for donation of course), I have said since I first heard of her that I want to be chased by the pancake lady. I'm not certain where exactly she is but I know it is near the end...
I've been thinking all day that I might have missed my pancake moment. The town past the one I stayed in was very small filled with beautiful old stones homes and gorgeous flowers . The sun was just coming up and I took the marked path from the sweet street to the woods and saw a lady opening her upstairs window. Behind me as I approached the woods I heard," AMERIA", which sounded like a females name...they said it about three times. Fifteen minutes later I was processing this some and wonder if it was the pancake lady trying to get my attention with my American patch (AMERIA).
This day would start simply beautiful but would end on hard pavement and might be chalked up as my most difficult day to date. I went thru the town of Ponferrada with a gorgeous Templar castle, I'd walk a little with Squiddly Diddly... we just kind of run into each other often but only walk about fifteen minutes together. Ponferreda is pretty touristy due to the castle, I went into it today as it was free. I read somewhere that someone suggested just walking on by it, but I ventured up the touristy hill and went to the bank machine as I was getting semi low on cash. I put my debit card in the machine and heard it clearly DROP to the floor once in the machine. I did not know what the prompt on the machine said but went inside to tell them. A nice guy was trying to help me outcast the machine and urged me to then go in when we could not get it out. The teller opened the machine, pulled out the tray that collects cards and my card was not there. I panicked and told them I heard it drop to the floor, they opened the machine and did not see it. I think the lady was giving up looking for it and about to try to convince me that the nice man outside might have taken it when I came inside , I knew this was not the case as I clearly heard the abnormal sound of my card falling to the ground inside the machine. Thank God an American named George who was fluent in Spanish walked in, he was like my rock hecwascsteady and calm in conversation and I was just starting to blubber away at the thought of losing my debit card and all it involved to get a new one. I think since George was fluent and slightly resembled a Spaniard they kept looking... An hour later they found my card.
I would forever today...a funny moment would happen when I saw four turkeys caged in a front yard in a town, I found myself talking to them telling them they were pretty and taking their picture I then turned around to a Middle aged over weight Spanish guy staring at me like I was crazy.
I had hopes to go further ... But stopped in a town called Cacabelos, there waiting for a car to drive them to a restaurant affiliated with our auberge was Father and Tom, seems Mary had gone ahead and that they actually had lost each other the day before when she passed the planned Acebo stop and they went on one more stop to my original destination that I wanted prior to my fall. We were scattered over three consecutive towns, tonight we were separated in two but a good hour and a half separated us from Mary.
I chose a shower as they were getting ready to go to dinner, and I walked over a bridge and had a pizza surrounded by locals watching a soccer game. I would sleep well tonight and looked forward to a new refreshing day...this was a hard one emotionally and I have lost my confidence in my walk since my fall. My ankle is swollen and hurts but I am so fortunate I think it has had no effect on me.
There has been talk on the forums about a sweet lady who chases pilgrims in the morning offering them pancakes (for donation of course), I have said since I first heard of her that I want to be chased by the pancake lady. I'm not certain where exactly she is but I know it is near the end...
I've been thinking all day that I might have missed my pancake moment. The town past the one I stayed in was very small filled with beautiful old stones homes and gorgeous flowers . The sun was just coming up and I took the marked path from the sweet street to the woods and saw a lady opening her upstairs window. Behind me as I approached the woods I heard," AMERIA", which sounded like a females name...they said it about three times. Fifteen minutes later I was processing this some and wonder if it was the pancake lady trying to get my attention with my American patch (AMERIA).
This day would start simply beautiful but would end on hard pavement and might be chalked up as my most difficult day to date. I went thru the town of Ponferrada with a gorgeous Templar castle, I'd walk a little with Squiddly Diddly... we just kind of run into each other often but only walk about fifteen minutes together. Ponferreda is pretty touristy due to the castle, I went into it today as it was free. I read somewhere that someone suggested just walking on by it, but I ventured up the touristy hill and went to the bank machine as I was getting semi low on cash. I put my debit card in the machine and heard it clearly DROP to the floor once in the machine. I did not know what the prompt on the machine said but went inside to tell them. A nice guy was trying to help me outcast the machine and urged me to then go in when we could not get it out. The teller opened the machine, pulled out the tray that collects cards and my card was not there. I panicked and told them I heard it drop to the floor, they opened the machine and did not see it. I think the lady was giving up looking for it and about to try to convince me that the nice man outside might have taken it when I came inside , I knew this was not the case as I clearly heard the abnormal sound of my card falling to the ground inside the machine. Thank God an American named George who was fluent in Spanish walked in, he was like my rock hecwascsteady and calm in conversation and I was just starting to blubber away at the thought of losing my debit card and all it involved to get a new one. I think since George was fluent and slightly resembled a Spaniard they kept looking... An hour later they found my card.
I would forever today...a funny moment would happen when I saw four turkeys caged in a front yard in a town, I found myself talking to them telling them they were pretty and taking their picture I then turned around to a Middle aged over weight Spanish guy staring at me like I was crazy.
I had hopes to go further ... But stopped in a town called Cacabelos, there waiting for a car to drive them to a restaurant affiliated with our auberge was Father and Tom, seems Mary had gone ahead and that they actually had lost each other the day before when she passed the planned Acebo stop and they went on one more stop to my original destination that I wanted prior to my fall. We were scattered over three consecutive towns, tonight we were separated in two but a good hour and a half separated us from Mary.
I chose a shower as they were getting ready to go to dinner, and I walked over a bridge and had a pizza surrounded by locals watching a soccer game. I would sleep well tonight and looked forward to a new refreshing day...this was a hard one emotionally and I have lost my confidence in my walk since my fall. My ankle is swollen and hurts but I am so fortunate I think it has had no effect on me.
STAGE TWENTY THREE: Santa Catalina to Acebo
Today was a gorgeous day, we have only had rain for one day that impacted my walking for only twenty minutes. We have been forewarned that once we hit our last few days in Galicia that it rains often, not certain how I will handle that but I clearly feel blessed that I have not had to deal with that yet. I am feeling a huge desire to get caught up for the days I got behind in Burgos, there are some faces I really want to see. Today's walk would be gorgeous with a nice climb and a huge decent, most hate the decents, I seem to handle them fine...until today.
Today's walk would involve one of the most if not the most famous Camino tradition...putting a stone from home at the base of the Cruz de Fero ( The Iron Cross), this has been looked forward to me since the planning of my trip started and the kids took great pride in picking my special rock, complete with pink and green bow. I was fortunate to start walking with a guy from Italy about forty minutes before arriving to the cross, I got to share the experience with him but also had someone to take my pictures and I of course took his. About an hour from the cross I saw a piece of slate shaped like a fish I grabbed it as it symbolized Christianity to me and thought I would offer up my rock (and a few I had gathered) on this fish shaped rock, then my mental disorder kicked in and I picked up some sticks and then a rather large piece of slate in the shape of a chapel or even a home. I carried this rather large home shaped rock for at least an hour and one guy even ran up to me and said his mom was dying to know what was up with the huge slate. I made a precious presentation at the base of that cross...my main prayers and thoughts there were to ask for healing in my dear girlfriends with cancer, and while all are doing great kicking cancers butt they are on my mind more on this trip then they will ever know.
So injury free and no doubt of my arrival to Santiago I proceed...
I was coming down out of the Forrest into Acebo, a huge decent that was all slate, I think shard is what they call it, I have pictures to show it...it was very dangerous. I bopped thru it almost effortlessly and a French couple with poles came behind me, the female was super quick and we kept a great pace. Many people comment that I don't use poles, I just have no desire. Daily I get the lecture how they will help me. I forgot if I shared that I did buy a walking stick way back in Puenta La Reina and gave that puppy up within twenty four hours, I placed it beside a church and only wish I had the stuff to make sign for it saying, "free to good pilgrim".
So I was descending into Acebo with the thought of getting a drink and moving on thru to Molonaseca. I fell straight on my face on the shard, the French couple came running and helped me up. The female was so sweet and offered me one of her poles, I'm pretty convinced it could not have hurt me but I also knew I had no idea how to use them do the sweet offer did not appeal to me. I let them go on and slowed up just a bit, instantly I got emotional on how such a fall on this stone could be a " Camino changer", how did I not get injured...these rocks are huge with many sharp areas. No sooner was I counting my blessings when I fell again... This would be a huge fall, and for the first time as I laid on the ground by myself crying I thought I just might have injured myself where I can 't go on. My ankle was killing me, my knee hurt... I was bleeding thru my clothes at the elbow, ankle and knee... I could not get up as I had fallen forward and then went to my side on my back. Like a turtle with my heavy pack I had to take it off from the ground. I got up thinking my biggest injury was my ankle, I was scared. I wobbled on into town very slowly. There was a large crowd at the first open bar...this is the way almost all evening stops would be...a beautiful welcoming by pilgrims that arrived before you, showered and changed and were now as relaxed as could be welcoming others. I didn't recognize anyone...but we exchanged our "hola" with grande Camino enthusiasm and one of the females said, "come take some weight off of your back". I said let me run find a place to stay and I promised I'd be back. MY injury was not obvious, and my ankle was throbbing, I could also feel the blood dripping. I had no idea if Father, Tom and Mary were here or not but I knew I had experienced a game changer and had no choice but to call it a day. This sweet town had a street going thru it, still running at a descent and gorgeous stone buildings...it was beautiful and festive.
I stopped a man who walked proudly in trekking clothes down the street and asked him where the aubergue was. He did not try to influence me at all but said pointing, " albergue private",and then pointed down the street and said, " albergue parochial ". I found myself going right to the parochial one without even thinking about it and am so glad I did. I entered to the nicest older man welcoming me in, explaining we would do a community dinner and only a donation is asked for. I typically spend a little more at these donation places, though I could spend not a cent I value these special community dinners. IN walks the gentleman I saw from the street who I had asked directions from to the auberges, his name is Carlos he is Spanish and he is the hospillario (volunteer host) of this auberge, he has two green ( ripe and delicious) melons in his hands and had been shopping for dinner. He sees I am injured and washes my clothes for me.
I ran back out to the first restaurant as you enter the town and sit with a group and get a nice sangria. Dinner was wonderful, Carlos had made a bean soup and a nice salad, we went around the table saying where we are from and then he asked the different nationalities to sing a song...we all would sing," Bye Bye Miss American Pie" and everyone attempted to chime in.
THis day I would stop and take a break at a hut on the side of the road, there would be literature referencing a pilgrimage to 88 temples in Japan...tonight at dinner a Korean couple would mention this pilgrimage:).
A guy who I have run into a few times would be on the top bunk right near me...he is from Switzerland, I call him "Squiddly Diddley" because on site he reminds me of an old friend from our HHH days (running group) nick named Squiddly Diddley...this guy walks super fast, very tall...filled with the stats of the day and stages and chain smokes like a champ. Amazing all of the smoking pilgrims...
I would also share a room with a gal I really like named G from the States. Interesting gal, retired teacher always so happy and very fit but she does her Camino very different than mine. I only mention this to educate a bit about the Camino...but there are those like myself who clearly have the desire to walk the pilgrimage, a few have to get into cars to get them to a next town if all auberges are full but they are clearly walking pilgrims...but there are many it appears who take taxis or even buses from point to point... They'll walk the "pretty" parts but hop in a taxi in a heart beat. They evidently are not supposed to be able to stay at the cheaper auberges if doing this but they have it down as you run into them at the aubergues every evening. I'm not judging just describing something that happens and there is a lot of talk about it while walking. I've walked with G before and she has an awesome pace, she could do this...but she describes in detail the skipping of the "boring" parts. I keep my mouth shut but I have found little to nothing boring about any second of my Camino but even if there is a boring stretch the Camino has way more to offer than just landscape...the people make most of the Camino.
Today's walk would involve one of the most if not the most famous Camino tradition...putting a stone from home at the base of the Cruz de Fero ( The Iron Cross), this has been looked forward to me since the planning of my trip started and the kids took great pride in picking my special rock, complete with pink and green bow. I was fortunate to start walking with a guy from Italy about forty minutes before arriving to the cross, I got to share the experience with him but also had someone to take my pictures and I of course took his. About an hour from the cross I saw a piece of slate shaped like a fish I grabbed it as it symbolized Christianity to me and thought I would offer up my rock (and a few I had gathered) on this fish shaped rock, then my mental disorder kicked in and I picked up some sticks and then a rather large piece of slate in the shape of a chapel or even a home. I carried this rather large home shaped rock for at least an hour and one guy even ran up to me and said his mom was dying to know what was up with the huge slate. I made a precious presentation at the base of that cross...my main prayers and thoughts there were to ask for healing in my dear girlfriends with cancer, and while all are doing great kicking cancers butt they are on my mind more on this trip then they will ever know.
So injury free and no doubt of my arrival to Santiago I proceed...
I was coming down out of the Forrest into Acebo, a huge decent that was all slate, I think shard is what they call it, I have pictures to show it...it was very dangerous. I bopped thru it almost effortlessly and a French couple with poles came behind me, the female was super quick and we kept a great pace. Many people comment that I don't use poles, I just have no desire. Daily I get the lecture how they will help me. I forgot if I shared that I did buy a walking stick way back in Puenta La Reina and gave that puppy up within twenty four hours, I placed it beside a church and only wish I had the stuff to make sign for it saying, "free to good pilgrim".
So I was descending into Acebo with the thought of getting a drink and moving on thru to Molonaseca. I fell straight on my face on the shard, the French couple came running and helped me up. The female was so sweet and offered me one of her poles, I'm pretty convinced it could not have hurt me but I also knew I had no idea how to use them do the sweet offer did not appeal to me. I let them go on and slowed up just a bit, instantly I got emotional on how such a fall on this stone could be a " Camino changer", how did I not get injured...these rocks are huge with many sharp areas. No sooner was I counting my blessings when I fell again... This would be a huge fall, and for the first time as I laid on the ground by myself crying I thought I just might have injured myself where I can 't go on. My ankle was killing me, my knee hurt... I was bleeding thru my clothes at the elbow, ankle and knee... I could not get up as I had fallen forward and then went to my side on my back. Like a turtle with my heavy pack I had to take it off from the ground. I got up thinking my biggest injury was my ankle, I was scared. I wobbled on into town very slowly. There was a large crowd at the first open bar...this is the way almost all evening stops would be...a beautiful welcoming by pilgrims that arrived before you, showered and changed and were now as relaxed as could be welcoming others. I didn't recognize anyone...but we exchanged our "hola" with grande Camino enthusiasm and one of the females said, "come take some weight off of your back". I said let me run find a place to stay and I promised I'd be back. MY injury was not obvious, and my ankle was throbbing, I could also feel the blood dripping. I had no idea if Father, Tom and Mary were here or not but I knew I had experienced a game changer and had no choice but to call it a day. This sweet town had a street going thru it, still running at a descent and gorgeous stone buildings...it was beautiful and festive.
I stopped a man who walked proudly in trekking clothes down the street and asked him where the aubergue was. He did not try to influence me at all but said pointing, " albergue private",and then pointed down the street and said, " albergue parochial ". I found myself going right to the parochial one without even thinking about it and am so glad I did. I entered to the nicest older man welcoming me in, explaining we would do a community dinner and only a donation is asked for. I typically spend a little more at these donation places, though I could spend not a cent I value these special community dinners. IN walks the gentleman I saw from the street who I had asked directions from to the auberges, his name is Carlos he is Spanish and he is the hospillario (volunteer host) of this auberge, he has two green ( ripe and delicious) melons in his hands and had been shopping for dinner. He sees I am injured and washes my clothes for me.
I ran back out to the first restaurant as you enter the town and sit with a group and get a nice sangria. Dinner was wonderful, Carlos had made a bean soup and a nice salad, we went around the table saying where we are from and then he asked the different nationalities to sing a song...we all would sing," Bye Bye Miss American Pie" and everyone attempted to chime in.
THis day I would stop and take a break at a hut on the side of the road, there would be literature referencing a pilgrimage to 88 temples in Japan...tonight at dinner a Korean couple would mention this pilgrimage:).
A guy who I have run into a few times would be on the top bunk right near me...he is from Switzerland, I call him "Squiddly Diddley" because on site he reminds me of an old friend from our HHH days (running group) nick named Squiddly Diddley...this guy walks super fast, very tall...filled with the stats of the day and stages and chain smokes like a champ. Amazing all of the smoking pilgrims...
I would also share a room with a gal I really like named G from the States. Interesting gal, retired teacher always so happy and very fit but she does her Camino very different than mine. I only mention this to educate a bit about the Camino...but there are those like myself who clearly have the desire to walk the pilgrimage, a few have to get into cars to get them to a next town if all auberges are full but they are clearly walking pilgrims...but there are many it appears who take taxis or even buses from point to point... They'll walk the "pretty" parts but hop in a taxi in a heart beat. They evidently are not supposed to be able to stay at the cheaper auberges if doing this but they have it down as you run into them at the aubergues every evening. I'm not judging just describing something that happens and there is a lot of talk about it while walking. I've walked with G before and she has an awesome pace, she could do this...but she describes in detail the skipping of the "boring" parts. I keep my mouth shut but I have found little to nothing boring about any second of my Camino but even if there is a boring stretch the Camino has way more to offer than just landscape...the people make most of the Camino.
STAGE TWENTY TWO: Hospital de Orbigo to Santa Catalina
Oh what a day!!!
I was one of the last out of the auberge this morning,I think a time of like eight am... I suspect my lovely Irish crew of Father, Tom and Mary was a good two hours ahead...I was totally fine with that. Father had shared that he thought they would stop in Santa Catarina so I had that in my mind but we also all agreed that we would never really know where we would end up of we decided to walk further or less. We had a large hill in a wooded area this morning and one nice sized town to go they enroute...Astorga. I passed a hippyish set up towards to the top of the hill about to decend into the town,where a guy had set up a home in the wilderness catering to pilgrims. He had a self service set up where you could make your own tea etc... A hammock and a nice sleeping area, I was on a roll and too lazy to take off my backpack but in hindsight I wished I had stopped and chatted with him.
When I reached the top of the hill overlooking the nice sized town, some people were getting back on trail from a nice rest area there. One guy seemed to start up to catch up with me, I heard his poles and went into overdrive...I could hear him going even faster at which I almost went into a full run, I was determined not to listen to his poles hitting the ground in this gorgeous forrest. Ahead of me I saw a person with a backpack, blue dock Martin high top boots, a scarf that resembled one from the middle east but it was pink and white, the resin wore a leather hat and carried a ukele (small guitar), I will be honest I could not tell if the person was a male or female, I really had little interest for conversation but as I was running away from clicking sticks I did luck out to get to here the strumming of this ukele and enjoyed it. As I was passing 'I' and I would strike up a conversation and benefitted immensely from the wonderful conversation to be had over the next several hours. 'I' is part Canadian and English and travels all over the world doing comedy, a funny soul who creates characters and does filming in character. This is his second Camino, the first done in full with a seven month stint working as a hospillario (volunteer at an auberge). He is not doing this full Camino as her has acquired friends in these travels and during his volunteer time and is heading to the coast to surf after a few days on trail, his whole life seemed kind of up in the air and I orchestrated. He gave me some wonderful insight into raising sons, he is late twenties but shared some similar stories to our families circumstances and I would leave this day determined to come back and walk the Camino with my three oldest sons. We pulled into a nice city on the hill called Astorga. I knew my three Irish buddies were going to spend two hours walking around this adorable town, my new buddy would suggest that we pop into a market to get stuff for lunch...we made sandwiches, chopped tomatoes with cheese and sat at a fountain and ate. Father, Tom and Mary had dropped the name of Santa Catrina being our stopping point so we headed in that direction and I passed an adorable aubergue and instantly saw Father ordering drinks...
My new buddy wanted to go on but did stick around for a bit of conversation and when I saw dear Adelaide (who has walked since early July from Brussels) come hopping down the bunny trail I sent both if them off together down the trail like a proud mama. Adelaide was trying to catch up with the young crew I was with in Tosantos, she would be walking until late but appeared happy to do so. As she hugged me goodbye to me she told me she was carrying my little Adelaide in her heart all the way to Santiago!
I would enjoy the night with my precious friends over dinner at our aubergue where they worked hard to supply a great meal.
I would walk by myself in the morning, which I enjoy, and your never alone for long out here. I'm starting to worry that I might lose my crew...I really like to stop and smell the roses and can do that and enjoy their company in the evening, but out here there are do many choices and just feeling really good might make you proceed further than you thought. My Irish crew has a place called Acebo picked out for tomorrow and I actually think I might push on, not a huge biggie in that if I am ahead it really just means their early start will have them walk by my town when my lazy self is just getting up.
I was one of the last out of the auberge this morning,I think a time of like eight am... I suspect my lovely Irish crew of Father, Tom and Mary was a good two hours ahead...I was totally fine with that. Father had shared that he thought they would stop in Santa Catarina so I had that in my mind but we also all agreed that we would never really know where we would end up of we decided to walk further or less. We had a large hill in a wooded area this morning and one nice sized town to go they enroute...Astorga. I passed a hippyish set up towards to the top of the hill about to decend into the town,where a guy had set up a home in the wilderness catering to pilgrims. He had a self service set up where you could make your own tea etc... A hammock and a nice sleeping area, I was on a roll and too lazy to take off my backpack but in hindsight I wished I had stopped and chatted with him.
When I reached the top of the hill overlooking the nice sized town, some people were getting back on trail from a nice rest area there. One guy seemed to start up to catch up with me, I heard his poles and went into overdrive...I could hear him going even faster at which I almost went into a full run, I was determined not to listen to his poles hitting the ground in this gorgeous forrest. Ahead of me I saw a person with a backpack, blue dock Martin high top boots, a scarf that resembled one from the middle east but it was pink and white, the resin wore a leather hat and carried a ukele (small guitar), I will be honest I could not tell if the person was a male or female, I really had little interest for conversation but as I was running away from clicking sticks I did luck out to get to here the strumming of this ukele and enjoyed it. As I was passing 'I' and I would strike up a conversation and benefitted immensely from the wonderful conversation to be had over the next several hours. 'I' is part Canadian and English and travels all over the world doing comedy, a funny soul who creates characters and does filming in character. This is his second Camino, the first done in full with a seven month stint working as a hospillario (volunteer at an auberge). He is not doing this full Camino as her has acquired friends in these travels and during his volunteer time and is heading to the coast to surf after a few days on trail, his whole life seemed kind of up in the air and I orchestrated. He gave me some wonderful insight into raising sons, he is late twenties but shared some similar stories to our families circumstances and I would leave this day determined to come back and walk the Camino with my three oldest sons. We pulled into a nice city on the hill called Astorga. I knew my three Irish buddies were going to spend two hours walking around this adorable town, my new buddy would suggest that we pop into a market to get stuff for lunch...we made sandwiches, chopped tomatoes with cheese and sat at a fountain and ate. Father, Tom and Mary had dropped the name of Santa Catrina being our stopping point so we headed in that direction and I passed an adorable aubergue and instantly saw Father ordering drinks...
My new buddy wanted to go on but did stick around for a bit of conversation and when I saw dear Adelaide (who has walked since early July from Brussels) come hopping down the bunny trail I sent both if them off together down the trail like a proud mama. Adelaide was trying to catch up with the young crew I was with in Tosantos, she would be walking until late but appeared happy to do so. As she hugged me goodbye to me she told me she was carrying my little Adelaide in her heart all the way to Santiago!
I would enjoy the night with my precious friends over dinner at our aubergue where they worked hard to supply a great meal.
I would walk by myself in the morning, which I enjoy, and your never alone for long out here. I'm starting to worry that I might lose my crew...I really like to stop and smell the roses and can do that and enjoy their company in the evening, but out here there are do many choices and just feeling really good might make you proceed further than you thought. My Irish crew has a place called Acebo picked out for tomorrow and I actually think I might push on, not a huge biggie in that if I am ahead it really just means their early start will have them walk by my town when my lazy self is just getting up.
Saturday, October 6, 2012
STAGE TWENTY ONE: Leon to Hospital de Orbigo
Don't let that name of that town fool you, no hospital involved...but it might be named after an old pilgrim hospital.
I let Father, Tom and Mary walk on without me today, they get up so early and their pace is too much for me, I love their company dearly do our plan is to meet up on the way. Oddly their pace is better than mine (or different I should say as it is not a race) but I tend to want to push on slightly more than they do. I actually have caused the men a few times to push further than they would. I knew my plan was to end up in this town tonight, I was one of the last to leave this morning. and also wanted to stay behind and do a nice copy in the city up near the cathedral. I think it was about 8:30 when I went to the cathedral hoping to sit out there and people watch some. The street cleaners are busy in the streets in the morning...and it seems I hit all of the big cities on weekends. A few of us were canvassing the streets looking for coffee and thankfully passed a hotel that had gorgeous pastry, I enjoyed my usual cafe con leche, fresh squeezed orange juice and a pastry that when I first arrived would be shared with like three people, now it is common place and I inhale the whole thing. There is a young gal who has approached me enthusiastically a few times and this morning we'd actually exchange names...she is from Ukraine and it ends up lived five kilometers from where my youngest son is from.
I headed out for a long day... all routes are well marked with yellow arrows or shells (hence my blog name) but I got confused coming into Hospital de Orbigo when arrows pointed into different directions. I am not certain but it appears that a small town not on the Camino might be wanting some business and thus has pointed arrows directing you thru their town. If this is the case it is the first time I gave seen it, but a confident walk was ripped from me in that last hours questioning what I was following. I walked thru a sleepy town questioning what all the great things I heard about this town, then before me I saw a gorgeous bridge heading into a festive little town and knew instantly it was a charming place. There were two great auberges and I would not have gone wrong in either...but I saw R from Scotland in the streets and asked him which one was the parochial one and he said he was staying there and pointed me in its direction. A charming courtyard and gentleman greeted me and showed me to the room...there were about ten beds only two people in the room (though all beds were occupied) and it was Tom and Mary!!! I was not sure they were going to go that far so I was thrilled to see them. We all went out for dinner and R joined us, and I invited any pilgrim sitting alone to come join us...a Danish man took me up on the offer, we had a great night. R is a pastor in Scotland which I did know when I first met him in Grannon, we had great conversation tonight and he is one of the people that I felt some of the strongest true Camino friendships with. I am hanging with people about fifteen years older than I am and feel at total ease in thus crowd, an educated bunch with so much interesting talk. R's wife will be joining us in Santiago and I am so thrilled to meet her . He speaks so highly about her as they now have three kiddos out of the home and they enjoy hiking and you can just see him beam when he speaks of her coming out. R is the one who I shared the story about him turning around. Because something told him to turn around one day back up thru a pile of rocks and there was a memorial to a women who had died of cancer in his hometown, a women who his wife had worked with, and a women who his wife actually got promoted to her job after her death.
Tonight's dinner conversation meant the world to me...we would eat and return to our sweet auberge. I love the company I am with dearly but I also know our walking time together is coming to an end...they walk so quickly and more importantly get up so early in the morning. I so badly need to be in my own pace, to stop for coffee when I want to but if I could meet up everynight with this crew I would be thrilled.
I let Father, Tom and Mary walk on without me today, they get up so early and their pace is too much for me, I love their company dearly do our plan is to meet up on the way. Oddly their pace is better than mine (or different I should say as it is not a race) but I tend to want to push on slightly more than they do. I actually have caused the men a few times to push further than they would. I knew my plan was to end up in this town tonight, I was one of the last to leave this morning. and also wanted to stay behind and do a nice copy in the city up near the cathedral. I think it was about 8:30 when I went to the cathedral hoping to sit out there and people watch some. The street cleaners are busy in the streets in the morning...and it seems I hit all of the big cities on weekends. A few of us were canvassing the streets looking for coffee and thankfully passed a hotel that had gorgeous pastry, I enjoyed my usual cafe con leche, fresh squeezed orange juice and a pastry that when I first arrived would be shared with like three people, now it is common place and I inhale the whole thing. There is a young gal who has approached me enthusiastically a few times and this morning we'd actually exchange names...she is from Ukraine and it ends up lived five kilometers from where my youngest son is from.
I headed out for a long day... all routes are well marked with yellow arrows or shells (hence my blog name) but I got confused coming into Hospital de Orbigo when arrows pointed into different directions. I am not certain but it appears that a small town not on the Camino might be wanting some business and thus has pointed arrows directing you thru their town. If this is the case it is the first time I gave seen it, but a confident walk was ripped from me in that last hours questioning what I was following. I walked thru a sleepy town questioning what all the great things I heard about this town, then before me I saw a gorgeous bridge heading into a festive little town and knew instantly it was a charming place. There were two great auberges and I would not have gone wrong in either...but I saw R from Scotland in the streets and asked him which one was the parochial one and he said he was staying there and pointed me in its direction. A charming courtyard and gentleman greeted me and showed me to the room...there were about ten beds only two people in the room (though all beds were occupied) and it was Tom and Mary!!! I was not sure they were going to go that far so I was thrilled to see them. We all went out for dinner and R joined us, and I invited any pilgrim sitting alone to come join us...a Danish man took me up on the offer, we had a great night. R is a pastor in Scotland which I did know when I first met him in Grannon, we had great conversation tonight and he is one of the people that I felt some of the strongest true Camino friendships with. I am hanging with people about fifteen years older than I am and feel at total ease in thus crowd, an educated bunch with so much interesting talk. R's wife will be joining us in Santiago and I am so thrilled to meet her . He speaks so highly about her as they now have three kiddos out of the home and they enjoy hiking and you can just see him beam when he speaks of her coming out. R is the one who I shared the story about him turning around. Because something told him to turn around one day back up thru a pile of rocks and there was a memorial to a women who had died of cancer in his hometown, a women who his wife had worked with, and a women who his wife actually got promoted to her job after her death.
Tonight's dinner conversation meant the world to me...we would eat and return to our sweet auberge. I love the company I am with dearly but I also know our walking time together is coming to an end...they walk so quickly and more importantly get up so early in the morning. I so badly need to be in my own pace, to stop for coffee when I want to but if I could meet up everynight with this crew I would be thrilled.
Tuesday, October 2, 2012
STAGE TWENTY: Reliegos to the big city Leon
I woke up early,if I didn't Father, Tom and Mary would have had a huge start on me. I'm ok with that as we knew we were all heading to Leon and would be together but I did want to walk early even though it is not natural to me. It was dark when we got started and I was in the typical back spot when walking with these three. We typically like to get about an hour or two under our belt before stopping for coffee. Today we eager for it, the sun was just coming up and they were all in front of me searching for trail (yellow arrows). It was funny as a small road went uphill they were all looking off to the left I saw a yellow arrow going up hill and alerted them to it. You could see the church steeple up the hill...in the most angelic voice I could muster I said to the priest, " the trail always leads you to the church......Father". At which he smirked and said in his Irish voice, " I was getting there but in a roundabout way.....sister". I love this group!
We arrived to Leon and checked into the Benedictine Convent for the night. A great place to stay. I LOVE Leon, I saw many faces I had not seen on a while. C from Canada and U from Germany. We walked around the town, window shopped...ate and drank great vino. My night would be sent on a local bar watching soccer with friends.
At 9:15 we went to a church service put on by the nuns, it was precious. we feared we might not get a spot on this place for the night at which time I joked with father that he certainly must have some pull...wasn't there some badge he could show...I mean he was a priest after all!!!!! He is hilarious and said they wouldn't believe him, at which point I have started to joke with him how do we know he really is a priest. A good nights sleep would be had, women were in one room and men in another, I assumed that meant I might have a good sleep and no snorers but some of these women s ores with the best of them.
We arrived to Leon and checked into the Benedictine Convent for the night. A great place to stay. I LOVE Leon, I saw many faces I had not seen on a while. C from Canada and U from Germany. We walked around the town, window shopped...ate and drank great vino. My night would be sent on a local bar watching soccer with friends.
At 9:15 we went to a church service put on by the nuns, it was precious. we feared we might not get a spot on this place for the night at which time I joked with father that he certainly must have some pull...wasn't there some badge he could show...I mean he was a priest after all!!!!! He is hilarious and said they wouldn't believe him, at which point I have started to joke with him how do we know he really is a priest. A good nights sleep would be had, women were in one room and men in another, I assumed that meant I might have a good sleep and no snorers but some of these women s ores with the best of them.
STAGE NINETEEN: Sahagun to Reliegos
I think I had shared that I got up late (by pilgrims standards) this morning, it was nice staying in a hotel and getting to take my time. Two Spanish guys that I have stayed on my same schedule were also at my place last night, though we never exchanged names we have found ourselves at the same table one night for dinner and last night we sat around the lobby talking. They call me " Super Mama" for the kilometer coverage I have been making. Yesterday was my longest trek to date. So I walk out of my hotel (a Benedictine monk parochial establishment) and I come around the corner and there popping out of the church door is Father (Irish priest), M and T... I was so excited, these guys start early and had left their auberge a good hour or so ago, we were only catching up because they had gone into the church. We had a great day walking together, they walk so fast which is the only reason we ever aerated to begin with...I adore these three as much as anyone I could possibly be with. We would stop in a neat little area called Reliegos. There was a bar that appeared to be a little famous, newspaper articles on the wall and graffiti everywhere. The owner and the gal behind the bar were famous and I would order three fresh squeezed orange juices over about two hours and each would come with a free piece of tapas, it was wonderful. Upon arrival to our auberge (new and not on the charts) I saw my French mom and dad from my second night in Orrisson. I'm not sure I referenced them before but they had a son with them for their first night and I really enjoyed talking to him...I was so excited to see them.
A funny to share...this word recognition on this pad is driving me crazy, I always have little time to blog and r re read but I just noticed the above reference to " the gal behind the bar" was changed by this iPad to read " the girl bashing the bat", friends beside me chuckled over this.
A funny to share...this word recognition on this pad is driving me crazy, I always have little time to blog and r re read but I just noticed the above reference to " the gal behind the bar" was changed by this iPad to read " the girl bashing the bat", friends beside me chuckled over this.
Sunday, September 30, 2012
STAGE EIGHTEEN: Carrion to Sahagun
I was the last in my room this morning when I finally left, I enjoyed it, I packed up slowly and had my sights set on a distance that is not common...about forty two kilometers. I had several reasons for this, I was determined to not really walk alone as much as to set my pace...I pulled over to get coffee before hand and the place I went into gave you a pastry, cafe con leche and orange juice for 2.50 euros a perfect way to start the day. In my pack I had a pack of cured ham, mozzarella , baguette and yoghurt. I felt stocked and way better off than yesterday. I walked alone with my sights pretty high. I stopped at one point to get something from my pack a guy in shorts passed me, hands in pockets as casual as can be. I was freezing cold so his shorts caught my attention but he seemed so at peace with his steps and just looked kind of like a poster boy for an REI ad and a casual outdoor life. We walked the exact pace for about two hours and I was totally fine walking on.
My own not certain I wanted to change it... I was curious how many steps apart we were from walking together and figured it out to be forty eight steps difference at the exact pace. I guess two hours into it my pace must have increased and we ended up side by side and would walk together and take a nice lunch break. J from Canada is in his early fifties and he and his wife sound really outdoorsy, no children and I enjoyed our conversation. He started kilometers ahead of me and I would say bye to him as he picked a small auberge in a very small town...I kept going for what would be my longest walk today's, a length almost unheard of of forty two or so kilometers. I was so happy to walk into Sahagun, to a Benedictine convent where I would get a single room for twenty Euros. I found the local grocery store and boy
Bought enough to tie me over, a nice slice of green melon and shaved carpaccio for dinner, and I took the longest hot bath that was the greatest feeling in the World. I tried to talk to Steve tonight on the phone but I was so tired I couldn't even speak. I slept so well, I would try to sleep in but the rule is to be out by eight thirty (Kate by pilgrims standards) and I would push it to close to nine. My plan is to take advantage of all great weather after my two cold days and walk a nice length in a comfortable pace.
My own not certain I wanted to change it... I was curious how many steps apart we were from walking together and figured it out to be forty eight steps difference at the exact pace. I guess two hours into it my pace must have increased and we ended up side by side and would walk together and take a nice lunch break. J from Canada is in his early fifties and he and his wife sound really outdoorsy, no children and I enjoyed our conversation. He started kilometers ahead of me and I would say bye to him as he picked a small auberge in a very small town...I kept going for what would be my longest walk today's, a length almost unheard of of forty two or so kilometers. I was so happy to walk into Sahagun, to a Benedictine convent where I would get a single room for twenty Euros. I found the local grocery store and boy
Bought enough to tie me over, a nice slice of green melon and shaved carpaccio for dinner, and I took the longest hot bath that was the greatest feeling in the World. I tried to talk to Steve tonight on the phone but I was so tired I couldn't even speak. I slept so well, I would try to sleep in but the rule is to be out by eight thirty (Kate by pilgrims standards) and I would push it to close to nine. My plan is to take advantage of all great weather after my two cold days and walk a nice length in a comfortable pace.
Saturday, September 29, 2012
STAGE SEVENTEEN: Boardilla to Carrion de Los Condes
I have found the Maesta far from boring, rumor was today was going to be freezing and raining and it did start out cold. The gang woke me up and I was off with M, Father, and T...they had all had breakfast while I was still packing and the not eating would throw me behind the eight ball quickly, their pace blew my mind and each is about fifteen years older than I am, with that said few people pass me out here and I am told often that my pace is to fast for some. Anyway I walked with them getting to have about a two hour conversation one on one with each. K and A are each having slight injuries that are affecting them, K has a knee injury, I doubt much gets her down so I know it must hurt. A is feeling sick... Being so cold and expecting a long trek in the rain we took off knowing we would all meet up in Carrion (though we had yet to decide the spot). With about one fifth of the trip left we met up K as we walked out of a church, she was doing great on that knee and we walked together into Carrion together. We actually stayed in a different auberge than the rest, it was regrettable as the company was grande but we stayed in a convent run by the sweetest nuns. Men and women were in different rooms, there was nice spacing in the beds and it was nice to be in a huge room where about fifteen beds were steins the perimeter facing into the center and it was all women. I loved the conversation and find I have always been in crowds of men vs women and enjoyed this night a lot. Two French women probably about ten years older than I am are walking with their mother who is eighty! In the morning mom would be waiting for them ready to go. This was the first nap I took arriving into Carrion...when I woke up I was nauseated from the lack of food. While I loved my company today I desperately need to stay true to myself and if I want to stop and eat and drink I need to prioritize myself, I've been great about this but not today. I will prioritize this tomorrow and walk by myself. K and I went to the only restaurant open in town ( they all siesta here from like two to five), I paid heavily for them to be open but had I not eaten I was about to pass out. We then went to the grocery store and waited for it to open (siesta) and bought some stuff to make a dinner. This would be the first time I did this here and it was real enjoyable. We made a pasta, tomato and squash dish and it was perfect. Then pretty much off to bed...
STAGE SIXTEEN HONTANAS TO BOADILLA DEL CAMINO
Oh what a hard walk! I had the most enjoyable evening last night. The auberge was great and kind of poured into the street. I can't stress enough how odd it was to enter this town, as far as the eye could see there was nothing and then this church steeple just appeared out of nowhere and each step just brought it to the surface. This group of wonderful folks is A and K from germany two adorable twenty something gals, full of smiles and happy, they met on the way. Three Irish folks (I really have found I gravitate and enjoy the Irish on this trip so much). M who is just entering her sixties and is hilarious, "Father" who you would never guess is an Irish priest, he is a hoot and nothing phases him. J a retired humble retired Irish police officer, and M from Seattle who I am guessing is a few years older than I am, really nice guy eager to keep a bottle of wine on the table.
I was on a different level than this gang and thankfully being in a room with only one other person I got to sleep in a bit. When I stumbled out of bed and got ready I came down to the restaurant area and was thrilled to see P from Amsterdam, what a character, we met in Vianna where I thought was the last time I had seen him, he quickly said, "what were you doing with the cute police officers?". Ends up he was in the square that day when I was dropped off. I started walking with him and his buddy and he shared he was about to drop out, that today would decide it. Their pace was a bit slow for me with some quick adjustment stops that seemed rather often so I continued on. The gang last night knew I would get a late stop but they said to meet them in Boadilla at the private auberge so I knew we would all be together this evening. The wind yesterday was awful, the wind today was unbearable...when I finally thought that I saw the town I was mistaken and thought I would throw a tantrum right then and there. A Spanish guy of about thirty something came up beside me and while he spoke no English and I spoke no Spanish it was nice to know someone was going to witness the death of me, I had comfort in this strangers presence. With the town insight the rain started, my first real rain...I guessed I was twenty minutes out and had to make the decision to pull over and batten down the hatches (throw on rain gear and cover my pack or just continue and be wet. I decided I needed to learn to deal with the rain in the proper fashion and quickly threw on raincoat and secured my pack. By the time I arrived at our wonderful auberge everyone was arriving and we are freezing. The host/owner is a young guy from Brazil with long black hair, dreadlocks and a knit black cap I suspect never left his head. He worked so hard to cater to the pilgrims, hospitality was tops on his list and he brought out blankets, started a fire and went into overflow mode welcoming people in and finding a place for them. Had it been sunny this would have been a dream spot, a huge courtyard, a loved place...but as it was we were crammed together but no one seemed to mind. The true spirit of the Camino was present all around and the people all assembled there were the best of the best. We had a wonderful pilgrim meal with the whole gang from the night before and were quick to get into bed, with the cold rain we were all eager to just get to sleep.
I was on a different level than this gang and thankfully being in a room with only one other person I got to sleep in a bit. When I stumbled out of bed and got ready I came down to the restaurant area and was thrilled to see P from Amsterdam, what a character, we met in Vianna where I thought was the last time I had seen him, he quickly said, "what were you doing with the cute police officers?". Ends up he was in the square that day when I was dropped off. I started walking with him and his buddy and he shared he was about to drop out, that today would decide it. Their pace was a bit slow for me with some quick adjustment stops that seemed rather often so I continued on. The gang last night knew I would get a late stop but they said to meet them in Boadilla at the private auberge so I knew we would all be together this evening. The wind yesterday was awful, the wind today was unbearable...when I finally thought that I saw the town I was mistaken and thought I would throw a tantrum right then and there. A Spanish guy of about thirty something came up beside me and while he spoke no English and I spoke no Spanish it was nice to know someone was going to witness the death of me, I had comfort in this strangers presence. With the town insight the rain started, my first real rain...I guessed I was twenty minutes out and had to make the decision to pull over and batten down the hatches (throw on rain gear and cover my pack or just continue and be wet. I decided I needed to learn to deal with the rain in the proper fashion and quickly threw on raincoat and secured my pack. By the time I arrived at our wonderful auberge everyone was arriving and we are freezing. The host/owner is a young guy from Brazil with long black hair, dreadlocks and a knit black cap I suspect never left his head. He worked so hard to cater to the pilgrims, hospitality was tops on his list and he brought out blankets, started a fire and went into overflow mode welcoming people in and finding a place for them. Had it been sunny this would have been a dream spot, a huge courtyard, a loved place...but as it was we were crammed together but no one seemed to mind. The true spirit of the Camino was present all around and the people all assembled there were the best of the best. We had a wonderful pilgrim meal with the whole gang from the night before and were quick to get into bed, with the cold rain we were all eager to just get to sleep.
STAGE EIGHTEEN: Carrion to Sahagun
I was the last in my room this morning when I finally left, I enjoyed it, I packed up slowly and had my sights set on a distance that is not common...about forty two kilometers. I had several reasons for this, I was determined to not really walk alone as much as to set my pace...I pulled over to get coffee before hand and the place I went into gave you a pastry, cafe con leche and orange juice for 2.50 euros a perfect way to start the day. In my pack I had a pack of cured ham, mozzarella , baguette and yoghurt. I felt stocked and way better off than yesterday. I walked alone with my sights pretty high. I stopped at one point to get something from my pack a guy in shorts passed me, hands in pockets as casual as can be. I was freezing cold so his shorts caught my attention but he seemed so at peace with his steps and just looked kind of like a poster boy for an REI ad and a casual outdoor life. We walked the exact pace for about two hours and I was totally fine walking on
My own not certain I wanted to change it... I was curious how many steps apart we were from walking together and figured it out to be forty eight steps difference at the exact pace. I guess two hours into it my pace must have increased and we ended up side by side and would walk together and take a nice lunch break. J from Canada is in his early fifties and he and his wife sound really outdoorsy, no children and I enjoyed our conversation. He started kilometers ahead of me and I would say bye to him as he picked a small auberge in a very small town...I kept going for what would be my longest walk today's, a length almost unheard of of forty two or so kilometers. I was so happy to walk into Sahagun, to a Benedictine convent where I would get a single room for twenty Euros. I found the local grocery store and boy
Bought enough to tie me over, a nice slice of green melon and shaved carpaccio for dinner, and I took the longest hot bath that was the greatest feeling in the World. I tried to talk to Steve tonight on the phone but I was so tired I couldn't even speak. I slept so well, I would try to sleep in but the rule is to be out by eight thirty (late by pilgrims standards) and I would push it to close to nine. My plan is to take advantage of all great weather after my two cold days and walk a nice length in a comfortable pace.
My own not certain I wanted to change it... I was curious how many steps apart we were from walking together and figured it out to be forty eight steps difference at the exact pace. I guess two hours into it my pace must have increased and we ended up side by side and would walk together and take a nice lunch break. J from Canada is in his early fifties and he and his wife sound really outdoorsy, no children and I enjoyed our conversation. He started kilometers ahead of me and I would say bye to him as he picked a small auberge in a very small town...I kept going for what would be my longest walk today's, a length almost unheard of of forty two or so kilometers. I was so happy to walk into Sahagun, to a Benedictine convent where I would get a single room for twenty Euros. I found the local grocery store and boy
Bought enough to tie me over, a nice slice of green melon and shaved carpaccio for dinner, and I took the longest hot bath that was the greatest feeling in the World. I tried to talk to Steve tonight on the phone but I was so tired I couldn't even speak. I slept so well, I would try to sleep in but the rule is to be out by eight thirty (late by pilgrims standards) and I would push it to close to nine. My plan is to take advantage of all great weather after my two cold days and walk a nice length in a comfortable pace.
Tuesday, September 25, 2012
STAGE FIFTEEN: Burgos to Hontanas
This Maesta is such a different critter, it took awhile to get out of Burgos but almost instantly you hit the wheat colored area known as the maesta. Some have called this boring but I see great beauty in it and it is not as flat as I imagined. Today was a great day of walking for me, I didn't start till noon way past the starting time for pilgrims, I safely returned the clothes to the store had my last meal in Burgos and was off. I was so focused today with my walking on a mission to catch up sometime and determined to do so, I really enjoyed the peace of this walk. I passed two pilgrims on foot and saw only a handful of pilgrims on bikes. I passed on gentleman right outside of Burgos I only said, "Buen Camino"" and passed on by barely even glancing his way (not to pilgrim like). Our paths would cross again about two hours later when I was walking the wrong way out of a town, he was sitting at a fountain with his shoes off tending to his feet, I hoped he understood English when I asked if he had seen any way markers. He did, pointed me in the right direction and we proceeded to walk together for a bit. He was G from Northern Italy and was on a tight schedule but was ready to stop font the night. Nice guy who is having to catch a bus periodically to make his schedule. The other pilgrim I saw was like stumbling upon two men and a bike in the desert, a thin very sun darkened Spaniard over his bike and a tall, blond who I suspect was from Norway or there abouts. I think the bike was just finished , maybe a punctured tire...I asked if they needed any help (very pilgrim) and with that the pilgrim on foot and I were just about to start walking together I suspect when he brought out his damn walking poles and starting clacking around in what could have been the most peaceful of walks. I hate these walking sticks when people don't apply the rubber tips and leave us all to listen to this clinking and clacking down the street. It is awful...most carry them and it is proper to have tips. Anyway it took five seconds of that noise and I was off in the most impressive stride. I pulled up at what would be the normal leg for this trip, I just wanted food it was about four and pilgrims routinely would be done at this point. The town was on overflow mode, everything full but they were opening some place on floors for overflow. This is seen in the summer months but rumor is we have record breaking numbers out here,not normal for September. The one place to eat was not serving till dinners one at seven. Even more reason not to be tempted to stay. I saw my little buddy W from Canada, he is over his tummy bug but still feeling sick he was do kind to give me a banana and offered up a granola bar...I gladly took the banana. A table of older Canadian men took pictures of my wineglass hanging off my backpack (this starts a lot of conversation). I headed out having no idea where I would end up or even if I would get a bed but I was at an enormous peace about it, I was ready to walk tell nine pm or so. I got a cheap phone option here that is buy the phone for twenty five dollars and then you get 1 cent a minute to the states. I had a talk with Steve but the wind was so powerful it was real difficult to hear. He was checking his map and coaching me of what was ahead. As the sun was just going down and the moon was already hung I the sky my feet really started to ache, I told Steve something was telling me to go on...he said Hontanas was before me and I entertained just getting food there and going on. I never saw the TV show KUNG FU but the image of that actor walking in the desert is all I imaged today, it is exactly how I felt. Nowhere as far as I could see was any town that was being referenced on the map and then with one step a church steeple almost appeared to be coming out of the ground, each step revel waved more , and there was a precious town with a thin alley going thru it, colorful banners overhead and I knew this would be my stopping point. I stopped in the auberge and it was dinner time in the back rooms but two young recent college grads from Germany had a bottle of wine in their hands and were just ordering a pizza each escaping the pilgrim menu being served in the dining hall. I just remember their sweet smiles and both asked me to come and join them for wine, I ordered my pizza and spent the evening with them. These gals were awesome and I felt an instant bond...seems they have formed a group, and after dinner the group came and gathered at our small table and I realized what I was being called to walk further for. There is a really cool Irish priest in the group, a funny older Irish woman who was telling me if I walk with them I would need to 1. Not snore, 2. Walk fast and 3. Maybe have some kind of an initiation. I joked ," like kissing a toothless Shepard?????". I lucked out to get a room that slept eight but only two of us were in there. A very considerate older guy from Poland was already in bed when I arrived, I didn't know till the morning that he was on a bike. He spoke no English but was a great room mate.
Monday, September 24, 2012
My last cafe con leche in Burgos
I'm sitting at my favorite spot here in the Main Square about to take off for the Camino once again. I had a wonderful nights sleep, I feared having a balcony over one of the busy streets would keep me awake but it was pretty quiet, I actually woke up at 8:00 thinking it was probably 6:00. My roomie (twenty something year old guy from Brazil) slept till 9:30 when I decided to wake him since I knew he had a bus to Leon to catch. I think I mentioned he had shared he lives with his mom so I used my gut instinct as to if I should wake him or let him sleep. I am about to venture out on about week of the toughest mentally part of the Camino. Between the cities of Burgos and Leon it is evidently just a flat area, no shade I think thru wheat fields, it is called the maesta. Many catch a bus for this segment, like me roomie...if their time is tight it might make sense if you have to miss any of it that it would be that.
I got some upsetting news last night...when I started planning my trip and using a common forum, it instantly became clear who would be traveling around each others time. The week before me was a huge forum crowd, with strangers all going on their own but bonding beautifully there on the forum and many walking together upon arrival. I had such a connection with Bond, my English friend thru the forum.
He has a child my age but I knew from what he had shared it would me slowing him down and not the other way around. We separated a few days in knowing our paths would cross again. I noticed last night that I had his email address on my new iPad and sent him a note saying I knew he was ahead of me.....I got a quick reply that he was actually home. While I was in Vianna, he suffered a huge blister that treated with compeed (a product that is highly questioned by some, I have no opinion) left a hole in his foot. It did not mend and he made the decision to fly home. He did share he will be flying into Santiago about the day he thought he'd arrive and thus take the walk to the coast of Finesterre and Muxia. We are certain to see each other there.
I lifted my backpack for the first time in two and half days and it feels so light. I dreaded picking it up at the airport when I started, I cringed at having to throw it over my shoulder or to even take it off. I had a huge bruise on my upper arm where I swing it off. Today, I grab it effortlessly and throw it on and buckle it without even having to look down. It looks like rain might come today, you can never really tell...but I am hoping for a very long walk to try to catch up with some of my circle (not really certain what that means on the Camino, we are a huge venn diagram).
I got some upsetting news last night...when I started planning my trip and using a common forum, it instantly became clear who would be traveling around each others time. The week before me was a huge forum crowd, with strangers all going on their own but bonding beautifully there on the forum and many walking together upon arrival. I had such a connection with Bond, my English friend thru the forum.
He has a child my age but I knew from what he had shared it would me slowing him down and not the other way around. We separated a few days in knowing our paths would cross again. I noticed last night that I had his email address on my new iPad and sent him a note saying I knew he was ahead of me.....I got a quick reply that he was actually home. While I was in Vianna, he suffered a huge blister that treated with compeed (a product that is highly questioned by some, I have no opinion) left a hole in his foot. It did not mend and he made the decision to fly home. He did share he will be flying into Santiago about the day he thought he'd arrive and thus take the walk to the coast of Finesterre and Muxia. We are certain to see each other there.
I lifted my backpack for the first time in two and half days and it feels so light. I dreaded picking it up at the airport when I started, I cringed at having to throw it over my shoulder or to even take it off. I had a huge bruise on my upper arm where I swing it off. Today, I grab it effortlessly and throw it on and buckle it without even having to look down. It looks like rain might come today, you can never really tell...but I am hoping for a very long walk to try to catch up with some of my circle (not really certain what that means on the Camino, we are a huge venn diagram).
A hotel in Burgos- night three
I loved Burgos, but I am so ready to get back on the Camino. I slept real well last night, very comfortable beds and group of gals in room. The ticket to a good nights sleep is earplugs and an eye mask. My only experience with earplugs was when Loftin had his MRI, and have never worn an eye mask in my life till this trip. I wish I had pulled both out when I got on the plane. We woke to a nice breakfast of toast and jams, where I usually just grab coffee for breakfast.
My auberge stay was not as pleasant as I had hoped for. I read great things about the place, but my friend Tatiana had warned me about some of the parochial auberges (attached to a church with usual prayers and mass) and said that some of the women who run them can be pretty bossy...I wonder if she might have stayed here. Since I can't read Spanish I did not know that the sign on the auberge said you could not stay there if you had already spent a night in Burgos. Only one gal out of the eight in my room fit that description, so upon getting back to the auberge to my found pack I started to hand wash my clothes and the lady that runs the place asked where I was from...when I said the USA she instantly started saying, " ahhhhh....you stayed last night in Burgos....(I shared this with the guy when I registered by the way which is how she knew)...you can't stay here if you have stayed in Burgos...it is too late to wash your clothes...everyone is at mass (not mandatory but I would have gone had I not been buying new clothes)...we eat in ten minutes (which I knew)". As she left she mumbled under breath, "Americanas" to me implying something awful about us, maybe all of them trust too much and leave their back pack out at a church. Anyway with my grand events of the day I just wanted to leave...she made a comment about the drops of water on the counter as I cleaned my clothes at which time I told her that I was the mother of six and she didn't need to worry about me cleaning up after myself. Boy did she turn nice after that, but in my eyes her damage was done and I wanted little to do with her. Two of the other gals in my room were also having to stay another night one due to injury and the other I think because they enjoyed each others company. Recent college grads I assume, traveling around the world (I am amazed at all of the youth doing these grande adventures) and the three of us found ourselves at a small parochial auberge that only sleeps sixteen. We were first in line, sat for hours at the door till it opened at noon, enjoyed conversation with locals arriving to church and were pretty sure we had a 'place at the Inn'. At twelve the gal who runs the place without cracking a smile approaches the back of the line and collects pilgrim's passports and ushers a group in, everyone starts throwing their passport in her hands and while in the front of the line mine didn't make it into her hands intone to be one of the sixteen. Within seconds she was "complete" / full and I was sad. I didn't say anything and felt things would work out for me, instantly a gentleman of about eighty something knowing no English approached me and showed me a card with the name of a hotel on it. I recognized the name from one of the main streets and for twenty euros I was shown a sweet clean room with two beds, the catch is someone else would also be paying twenty euros for that other bed. I took the bed, balcony over one of the more active streets and set off to finally see the inside of the gorgeous cathedral where El CID is buried. When I returned the guy at the lobby told me he put "my friend" in my room someone from Brazil, I asked if it was a lady and thought I got the affirmative (he spoke little to no English). I got up to the room saw a Deuter back pack, knew a real pilgrim was my roomie. It ends up a nice guy who was actually in the lobby when I walked in was my roomie , he was trying to take a bus to Leon as he was running out of time and being a Sunday I guess they were booked. Super nice guy, I think about twenty five, lives at home with his mom and is missing his home and girlfriend. It is almost 7:30pm here and he has been asleep almost the whole time since returning to the room. We enjoyed some nice conversation and he mentioned a mom traveling with her son and eleven month old baby. He had a cute picture of them and oddly it is the family I slept with on my first night in Saint Jean. I was thrilled to see that they had started as it appeared they were taking their time getting out of the gates. She was a super mom and her son reminded me of my Reychoo (oldest).
The city is way calmer today ... I'm not certain if it is due to the sprinkles or that it is Sunday. Few things are open . I grabbed a piece of tapas of toast, goat cheese, Brie, tomato, brie grilled onion and mushroom in the tiniest amount drizzled with balsamic vinegar.
I'm just now reflecting on the days events with a little more clarity, I think I understand these auberges desire to fill their inexpensive auberges with fresh pilgrims right off the track vs someone like me who has lingered (with reason unbeknown to her), and thus starting at a point in line that captures these folks might be sticking more with their real duties on the Camino, to supply an inexpensive bed to the wandering tired pilgrim. I might look a little rested now, that will change tomorrow...
My auberge stay was not as pleasant as I had hoped for. I read great things about the place, but my friend Tatiana had warned me about some of the parochial auberges (attached to a church with usual prayers and mass) and said that some of the women who run them can be pretty bossy...I wonder if she might have stayed here. Since I can't read Spanish I did not know that the sign on the auberge said you could not stay there if you had already spent a night in Burgos. Only one gal out of the eight in my room fit that description, so upon getting back to the auberge to my found pack I started to hand wash my clothes and the lady that runs the place asked where I was from...when I said the USA she instantly started saying, " ahhhhh....you stayed last night in Burgos....(I shared this with the guy when I registered by the way which is how she knew)...you can't stay here if you have stayed in Burgos...it is too late to wash your clothes...everyone is at mass (not mandatory but I would have gone had I not been buying new clothes)...we eat in ten minutes (which I knew)". As she left she mumbled under breath, "Americanas" to me implying something awful about us, maybe all of them trust too much and leave their back pack out at a church. Anyway with my grand events of the day I just wanted to leave...she made a comment about the drops of water on the counter as I cleaned my clothes at which time I told her that I was the mother of six and she didn't need to worry about me cleaning up after myself. Boy did she turn nice after that, but in my eyes her damage was done and I wanted little to do with her. Two of the other gals in my room were also having to stay another night one due to injury and the other I think because they enjoyed each others company. Recent college grads I assume, traveling around the world (I am amazed at all of the youth doing these grande adventures) and the three of us found ourselves at a small parochial auberge that only sleeps sixteen. We were first in line, sat for hours at the door till it opened at noon, enjoyed conversation with locals arriving to church and were pretty sure we had a 'place at the Inn'. At twelve the gal who runs the place without cracking a smile approaches the back of the line and collects pilgrim's passports and ushers a group in, everyone starts throwing their passport in her hands and while in the front of the line mine didn't make it into her hands intone to be one of the sixteen. Within seconds she was "complete" / full and I was sad. I didn't say anything and felt things would work out for me, instantly a gentleman of about eighty something knowing no English approached me and showed me a card with the name of a hotel on it. I recognized the name from one of the main streets and for twenty euros I was shown a sweet clean room with two beds, the catch is someone else would also be paying twenty euros for that other bed. I took the bed, balcony over one of the more active streets and set off to finally see the inside of the gorgeous cathedral where El CID is buried. When I returned the guy at the lobby told me he put "my friend" in my room someone from Brazil, I asked if it was a lady and thought I got the affirmative (he spoke little to no English). I got up to the room saw a Deuter back pack, knew a real pilgrim was my roomie. It ends up a nice guy who was actually in the lobby when I walked in was my roomie , he was trying to take a bus to Leon as he was running out of time and being a Sunday I guess they were booked. Super nice guy, I think about twenty five, lives at home with his mom and is missing his home and girlfriend. It is almost 7:30pm here and he has been asleep almost the whole time since returning to the room. We enjoyed some nice conversation and he mentioned a mom traveling with her son and eleven month old baby. He had a cute picture of them and oddly it is the family I slept with on my first night in Saint Jean. I was thrilled to see that they had started as it appeared they were taking their time getting out of the gates. She was a super mom and her son reminded me of my Reychoo (oldest).
The city is way calmer today ... I'm not certain if it is due to the sprinkles or that it is Sunday. Few things are open . I grabbed a piece of tapas of toast, goat cheese, Brie, tomato, brie grilled onion and mushroom in the tiniest amount drizzled with balsamic vinegar.
I'm just now reflecting on the days events with a little more clarity, I think I understand these auberges desire to fill their inexpensive auberges with fresh pilgrims right off the track vs someone like me who has lingered (with reason unbeknown to her), and thus starting at a point in line that captures these folks might be sticking more with their real duties on the Camino, to supply an inexpensive bed to the wandering tired pilgrim. I might look a little rested now, that will change tomorrow...
Sunday, September 23, 2012
...and that will get you a ride in a cop car Madame
I woke this morning with the laziest of intentions, an extra day in Burgos. You of course can't keep track of the days of the week but the energy in the main square last night told me it must be a weekend. I love family life here, couples are out strolling and the young children are just wild with play, you never see a stressful parent trying to hush them. I like how couples can be sitting out and enjoying a drink with not a care in the world and their children are in the center of the square kicking a ball and acting clearly as children do, the parents not at all feeling like they need to reign them in.
I had heard about an auberge right outside of Burgos over the river as you come in called Emaus, a parochial auberge I decided to head there and see if I could stay another night. I had two clear choices, a small auberge in the middle of everything opening at 12 or this softer calmer place opening at 2 according to the sign. I couldn't make out what the sign said in Spanish but the 2:00 was obvious. I wasn't convinced which was the best option for me until wandering around in the streets was G from India (lives in Milan, Italy) who said Emaus was what he needed having been there last night. I went on then to Emaus leaving the street cleaning cladder and had a peaceful walk to Emaus. The auberge was closed but the street was quiet , the door was gated closed and a children's playground was there in the courtyard. I had about five hours till they opened and made a decision without much thought to of course take my money, technology etc... and to leave my pack there for this coveted spot. In hindsight maybe a bigger gamble than I realized. I actually assumed the gate would be opened by someone and they would just move my bag within the walls of the auberge/church chapel. I have to say I have observed these wonderful hosts do such things often so in my opinion this was not far fetched. I returned to the cathedral area enjoyed coffee and conversation with other pilgrims and was about to go into the cathedral when I realized if I had my pilgrim passport I would get a discount and more importantly get my pilgrim passport stamped.
It was now about 12:30 and I would start the leisurely walk back over the river to Emaus. I arrived to the nicest group of ladies sitting out leaning on their packs, our conversation was nice and lighthearted filled with laugh and stories. One shared that the sign on the door written in Spanish said you could not stay here if you had arrived via bus and or stayed the night before in Burgos, one of us had arrived by bus all of the others had slept in Burgos the night before. My backpack was not there but I honestly didn't worry. When the door finally opened a sweet soft spoken man brought us in and upon entering the room where you typically take off your shoes and start the process I didn't see pack and slightly worried. He too felt it was probably safe inside the walls there but asked if I would wait till he registered folks before he started looking. I was calm, not really certain why but I was not panicking. About an hour passed and it was concluded that my pack was not there and still not panicking I got directions to the police station and walked there hoping that someone "found" my backpack. The police officer at the desk when I walked in was chatting with a lady and did not speak English but he gave me a phone number to call and I called it not really knowing what I was doing. It ends up I was calling a central number that took a report in English, the officer on the phone shared he was in Madrid and spoke excellent English he then asked me to hand the phone to the officer there and I did. They had had a changing of the guard and the new officer spoke a little English, I asked if they could tell me where to purchase new clothes, I needed sporting clothes and not just a normal clothing store. The main challenge and prep for a trip like this is quick dry light clothing. I still was not panicking but clearly in survival mode...what do I REALLY need? What did I have that I could live without? An amazing thing to have to think about. I have still what 3/4, of my trip still ahead of me and I am having to reconsider what I need to get me thru this. I packed well, I researched and planned extensively I have two pairs of everything but all were expensive, the best quality and my pack alone was about two hundred dollars. Javid, my hero police officer would quickly say, "we will take you to get your new clothes". A few minutes later a female officer and Javid led me down to the garage where we hopped into a police car and they drove me several miles to a huge sporting goods store called , Decathalon. Here I saw all of the brands I am seeing on the Camino. I bought a change of clothes as I had one on and a new sleeping bag and I stood in front the backpacks and picked up the lightest one. Javid and his partner had just dropped me off, he said , " you can catch the bus over here". I wondered how would I know which one to catch, but still not the slightest bit of anxiety had kicked in. Javid then said , " call us we will come back and get you" he then gave me the number to the police and his personal cell. Javid shared that my backpack would surface in three days, that someone stole it would realize that there was nothing in it of value ( to them) and it would be found somewhere. With that said I was all for purchasing a new light backpack until we filled it with weights and it felt so cheap almost like cardboard on my shoulders. I thought if Javid was right if my pack surfaced in three days then maybe I should gamble carry my stuff in a garbage bag and in three days time catch a taxi or pay a taxi to deliver the bag and what would be left in it. Of course ALL of these things entering my mind were contingent on so many different things. I honestly didn't know what to do and think I was clearly numb.
When I was done I called Javid and it was difficult to converse and his English is not fluent but I think I got across that I was done and he said something and I waited only hoping that he was indeed coming. There was no shade and oddly no place to sit outside of the store but this downtime of waiting started to give me my first thoughts of really what on Earth am I supposed to do now. I also realized that my pack carried the ashes of five of my precious dogs and that really got to me, I had a scoop of Spinnaker, Ama, Q, Buoy and Harbor...Steve could send me more, I would request them to be sent to Finesterre "the end of the world" and felt comfortable that I would get them. The image of where the backpack's ashes would end up upset me greatly. My daughters had made a felt pouch to carry the ashes in with an embroideried heart on it, Karfoo and Tee Tee had made me a ring that they worked on for two weeks that was in that same compartment of my backpack. Karfoo, I love him so, grew crystals to make me this ring, he polished them and glued them on the ring. They both eagerly presented me the ring out at the beach of a lake we have been visiting about a week before I left. They were so cute they had made an origami box for it and we're so proud. Tee Tee had picked out the rock for me to carry to put at the iron cross, I was upset to know that precious rock would not make its destination.
I hesitated to call Javid again, they had not arrived yet, I was so hot and dehydrated and still needed things like soap and a comb...and even a towel. I decided I could use a cotton scarf as a towel a trick someone told me about as they were trying to convince me I could dump my expensive REI towels(they were right by the way, though I never felt comfortable dumping such an expensive item). I called Javid again to make sure he understood me and more importantly that I had understood him, he might have very well just said , "catch the bus". I called again...this time he sounded like he said, "in ten minutes", at which time I called my friend Rabbit to tell her what had happened but did not tell Steve yet...
Ten minutes later Javid and some charming young police officer arrived with a fresh flirtatious amount of enthusiasm. Javid stayed pretty professional, nice but very office rush...but this young guy was clearly the most adorable guy I have ever met in my life...almost a character made to make this middle aged woman feel good. They pulled up and Javid went to get out of the car and I just immediately jumped in the back...I let out a slight scream as I literally jumped into the back seat BUT this car did not have upholstery and was a hard plastic, my bum was not prepared for the experience. Young cop turned with a smirk and huge dimples and said , " Madame this car is made for very bad, bad people".....
Ends up young cop had done the Camino via bike last year and was just simply charming... They asked if I needed anything else, of course I did but do you tell them. I was honest I needed soap, that morning I passed a boutique near the cathedral with handmade soap, I coukdn't justify a lavender soap when I was equipped but now I was ready to have an expensive lavender soap. I asked if they could get me " as close to the cathedral" as possible and that I would walk from there. They laughed and said,"close to the cathedral? Of course...we can go anywhere...we are the police madame".
Thru the old rock walked fortress arch they drove right into the trendy square where a symphony was playing and everyone was out at tables drinking and eating, THERE in front of all this celebration those two precious officers pulled up and hopped out of the car and opened my door as if it was a limousine and I was a movie star and dropped me off there in grand splendor. I hugged them each and got a picture of them.
Here I stood with a symphony playing and a table of older Englishman within inches of me. The most social one of the group clearly knew I must have some great story to share and asked what it was. Within seconds of starting the story he handed me a glass of wine and kept topping it off as needed. I got my soap and headed back to the auberge.
As I approached I felt my bag was now within the walls of it, wishful thinking maybe, but reality was kicking in and I knew that I might have new clothes and soap but that I clearly was not equipped for a Camino that still was half way complete. N from the Netherlands was laying in her bunk , I think I expected that if indeed my bag was returned (realizing there was nothing in it to take) that it would be on my bed...it was not there and I took a deep breath realizing that indeed it was stolen and that I better start thinking of a plan. N then said, " I think they found your bag" at which time I look down and it was at my feet. WOW...what a day, maybe a lesson learned...a time to really think about what is important to you and a time to notice the kindness of overworked service employees. My room mates were all women, fun, energetic precious women... My only wish was that we had had the time to sit within those walls and get to know each other more. L from New Zealand had to visit a clinic to be diagnosed with tendinitis and she and N would be seeking another night in Burgos. I had plans to return my items to Decathalon the next day and be on the road...one of the host shared it would not be open on Sunday and I too came terms that I would be here another day...another day in Beautiful Burgos...things could be worse....
I had heard about an auberge right outside of Burgos over the river as you come in called Emaus, a parochial auberge I decided to head there and see if I could stay another night. I had two clear choices, a small auberge in the middle of everything opening at 12 or this softer calmer place opening at 2 according to the sign. I couldn't make out what the sign said in Spanish but the 2:00 was obvious. I wasn't convinced which was the best option for me until wandering around in the streets was G from India (lives in Milan, Italy) who said Emaus was what he needed having been there last night. I went on then to Emaus leaving the street cleaning cladder and had a peaceful walk to Emaus. The auberge was closed but the street was quiet , the door was gated closed and a children's playground was there in the courtyard. I had about five hours till they opened and made a decision without much thought to of course take my money, technology etc... and to leave my pack there for this coveted spot. In hindsight maybe a bigger gamble than I realized. I actually assumed the gate would be opened by someone and they would just move my bag within the walls of the auberge/church chapel. I have to say I have observed these wonderful hosts do such things often so in my opinion this was not far fetched. I returned to the cathedral area enjoyed coffee and conversation with other pilgrims and was about to go into the cathedral when I realized if I had my pilgrim passport I would get a discount and more importantly get my pilgrim passport stamped.
It was now about 12:30 and I would start the leisurely walk back over the river to Emaus. I arrived to the nicest group of ladies sitting out leaning on their packs, our conversation was nice and lighthearted filled with laugh and stories. One shared that the sign on the door written in Spanish said you could not stay here if you had arrived via bus and or stayed the night before in Burgos, one of us had arrived by bus all of the others had slept in Burgos the night before. My backpack was not there but I honestly didn't worry. When the door finally opened a sweet soft spoken man brought us in and upon entering the room where you typically take off your shoes and start the process I didn't see pack and slightly worried. He too felt it was probably safe inside the walls there but asked if I would wait till he registered folks before he started looking. I was calm, not really certain why but I was not panicking. About an hour passed and it was concluded that my pack was not there and still not panicking I got directions to the police station and walked there hoping that someone "found" my backpack. The police officer at the desk when I walked in was chatting with a lady and did not speak English but he gave me a phone number to call and I called it not really knowing what I was doing. It ends up I was calling a central number that took a report in English, the officer on the phone shared he was in Madrid and spoke excellent English he then asked me to hand the phone to the officer there and I did. They had had a changing of the guard and the new officer spoke a little English, I asked if they could tell me where to purchase new clothes, I needed sporting clothes and not just a normal clothing store. The main challenge and prep for a trip like this is quick dry light clothing. I still was not panicking but clearly in survival mode...what do I REALLY need? What did I have that I could live without? An amazing thing to have to think about. I have still what 3/4, of my trip still ahead of me and I am having to reconsider what I need to get me thru this. I packed well, I researched and planned extensively I have two pairs of everything but all were expensive, the best quality and my pack alone was about two hundred dollars. Javid, my hero police officer would quickly say, "we will take you to get your new clothes". A few minutes later a female officer and Javid led me down to the garage where we hopped into a police car and they drove me several miles to a huge sporting goods store called , Decathalon. Here I saw all of the brands I am seeing on the Camino. I bought a change of clothes as I had one on and a new sleeping bag and I stood in front the backpacks and picked up the lightest one. Javid and his partner had just dropped me off, he said , " you can catch the bus over here". I wondered how would I know which one to catch, but still not the slightest bit of anxiety had kicked in. Javid then said , " call us we will come back and get you" he then gave me the number to the police and his personal cell. Javid shared that my backpack would surface in three days, that someone stole it would realize that there was nothing in it of value ( to them) and it would be found somewhere. With that said I was all for purchasing a new light backpack until we filled it with weights and it felt so cheap almost like cardboard on my shoulders. I thought if Javid was right if my pack surfaced in three days then maybe I should gamble carry my stuff in a garbage bag and in three days time catch a taxi or pay a taxi to deliver the bag and what would be left in it. Of course ALL of these things entering my mind were contingent on so many different things. I honestly didn't know what to do and think I was clearly numb.
When I was done I called Javid and it was difficult to converse and his English is not fluent but I think I got across that I was done and he said something and I waited only hoping that he was indeed coming. There was no shade and oddly no place to sit outside of the store but this downtime of waiting started to give me my first thoughts of really what on Earth am I supposed to do now. I also realized that my pack carried the ashes of five of my precious dogs and that really got to me, I had a scoop of Spinnaker, Ama, Q, Buoy and Harbor...Steve could send me more, I would request them to be sent to Finesterre "the end of the world" and felt comfortable that I would get them. The image of where the backpack's ashes would end up upset me greatly. My daughters had made a felt pouch to carry the ashes in with an embroideried heart on it, Karfoo and Tee Tee had made me a ring that they worked on for two weeks that was in that same compartment of my backpack. Karfoo, I love him so, grew crystals to make me this ring, he polished them and glued them on the ring. They both eagerly presented me the ring out at the beach of a lake we have been visiting about a week before I left. They were so cute they had made an origami box for it and we're so proud. Tee Tee had picked out the rock for me to carry to put at the iron cross, I was upset to know that precious rock would not make its destination.
I hesitated to call Javid again, they had not arrived yet, I was so hot and dehydrated and still needed things like soap and a comb...and even a towel. I decided I could use a cotton scarf as a towel a trick someone told me about as they were trying to convince me I could dump my expensive REI towels(they were right by the way, though I never felt comfortable dumping such an expensive item). I called Javid again to make sure he understood me and more importantly that I had understood him, he might have very well just said , "catch the bus". I called again...this time he sounded like he said, "in ten minutes", at which time I called my friend Rabbit to tell her what had happened but did not tell Steve yet...
Ten minutes later Javid and some charming young police officer arrived with a fresh flirtatious amount of enthusiasm. Javid stayed pretty professional, nice but very office rush...but this young guy was clearly the most adorable guy I have ever met in my life...almost a character made to make this middle aged woman feel good. They pulled up and Javid went to get out of the car and I just immediately jumped in the back...I let out a slight scream as I literally jumped into the back seat BUT this car did not have upholstery and was a hard plastic, my bum was not prepared for the experience. Young cop turned with a smirk and huge dimples and said , " Madame this car is made for very bad, bad people".....
Ends up young cop had done the Camino via bike last year and was just simply charming... They asked if I needed anything else, of course I did but do you tell them. I was honest I needed soap, that morning I passed a boutique near the cathedral with handmade soap, I coukdn't justify a lavender soap when I was equipped but now I was ready to have an expensive lavender soap. I asked if they could get me " as close to the cathedral" as possible and that I would walk from there. They laughed and said,"close to the cathedral? Of course...we can go anywhere...we are the police madame".
Thru the old rock walked fortress arch they drove right into the trendy square where a symphony was playing and everyone was out at tables drinking and eating, THERE in front of all this celebration those two precious officers pulled up and hopped out of the car and opened my door as if it was a limousine and I was a movie star and dropped me off there in grand splendor. I hugged them each and got a picture of them.
Here I stood with a symphony playing and a table of older Englishman within inches of me. The most social one of the group clearly knew I must have some great story to share and asked what it was. Within seconds of starting the story he handed me a glass of wine and kept topping it off as needed. I got my soap and headed back to the auberge.
As I approached I felt my bag was now within the walls of it, wishful thinking maybe, but reality was kicking in and I knew that I might have new clothes and soap but that I clearly was not equipped for a Camino that still was half way complete. N from the Netherlands was laying in her bunk , I think I expected that if indeed my bag was returned (realizing there was nothing in it to take) that it would be on my bed...it was not there and I took a deep breath realizing that indeed it was stolen and that I better start thinking of a plan. N then said, " I think they found your bag" at which time I look down and it was at my feet. WOW...what a day, maybe a lesson learned...a time to really think about what is important to you and a time to notice the kindness of overworked service employees. My room mates were all women, fun, energetic precious women... My only wish was that we had had the time to sit within those walls and get to know each other more. L from New Zealand had to visit a clinic to be diagnosed with tendinitis and she and N would be seeking another night in Burgos. I had plans to return my items to Decathalon the next day and be on the road...one of the host shared it would not be open on Sunday and I too came terms that I would be here another day...another day in Beautiful Burgos...things could be worse....
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