Wow what a day...super long but I felt great and am so happy. I left my American girlfriends with a slight dilemma they had all of their stuff to get dried and were negotiating with the hotel owner how exactly to pull that off, he had a washer just not a dryer. I wish I had gotten to them before this man talked them into washing all of their stuff because they had zero signs of bedbugs and he made money off of them charging them to wash their clothes and now they were stuck with wet clothes.
I passed thru some gorgeous small towns today, beautiful stone buildings with colored flowers and flower boxes...I love this stretch, cows are common place and the animals look so loved. I think I officially reach Galacia today, green and gorgeous but known for its rain. I have only had to walk in the rain twenty minutes...I had a whole day of rain after that walk that involved sitting in an auberge all cold and wet, but it was intimate. We are so lucky to not have had to walk in the rain, I think this is very uncommon.
I climbed O'Cebreiro 1200 meters for sixteen kilometers...it was amazing and my strength is so much stronger than the first day. O'Cebreiro was a small place that looked like it belonged in a fairy tale, I actually felt like I had been there before, I know when I was little my parents took me to Santiago but I really wonder if I had been here too. I looked at some gorgeous handmade jewelry and am pretty sure I will get me a little something special to remember my trip. A lot of folks were gathered here eating, many were staying put for the night...I would stop and order octopus from a cute restaurant that looked like it belonged in Hansel and Gretel. I couldn't eat it all but kept getting up out of my chair to take it outside to feed three cats, one pretty badly deformed who I made sure got the most.
As I walked out of the town I questioned two maps and shared with others behind me that I thought there was a Forrest route and we could get out of the road, .they followed me and we were thrilled to get off of the road. One of these guys was George who saved me at the bank and who only knew me crying and stressed when the machine ate my card. he said he told God," please let me meet that girl again so I can see the happy pilgrim I know she is", it was wonderful walking a few hours with him and his nephew.
I would continue on and walk from this point on a full days more hike. George sounded like he had the same plan and while we didn't walk the full thing together it was great to have such a long common goal as this was not a normal undertaking. I was tired I was in the circle or near the circle of friends I had started with and really wanted to finish the trip with the folks I started with. While I had not started with my Irish crew I selfishly wanted to end with them too... With their pace I felt that possible. I was not certain I would see them again but assumed once in Santiago I would as we all do funnel right there into it.
I would walk till about seven tonight and would come to my resting stop fearful there would be no bed available for me...this was the end of a typical stage in a popular book used and ending at these suggested stages could create problems when looking for a bed. I passed right by the public auberge, my gut told me to keep going sniffing out a better spot. Two nice Spanish guys would share they are staying at a wonderful spot and that they were pretty certain it was full but we would go there and double check. There in front with his head in a journal was M from Colorado, mentioned way back when I walked with my two Irish buddies weeks ago. M is a dancer, and while out on injury he and his wonderful mom, gorgeous and a few years older than I am (two kiddos out of the house one in high school) decided to walk the Camino and gave themselves two weeks from "let's do it" to airplane. He ran and got J his mom and we all went to try and find me an auberge, we passed one that didn't sit well with me and then as you leave town there was this most precious auberge that resembled a restored barn, sweet and loved and the gal who checked me in was so proud of it. in this place were many people that I have shared this journey with, my heart filled with warmth. We ran to a grocery store as tomorrows stage had a long part where there was no food or drink available. While at the grocery store I ran into one of my young friends from France, cool P who is super artsy wears his black hair in a ponytail and just super cool. I was trying to catch up information on his group of the youngsters (late twenty something's I think) and he shared dear Adelaide was in the hospital in Ponferedda due to diabetes, I feared it might be from that long day when my last image of her was with my Ukele friend skipping down the path. I teared up to hear this and Paul instantly assured me she would be ok and would of course continue on when out. She started in Brussels in June!
I kissed M and J goodnight and was wandering back to my auberge when I heard what sounded like a private party down an alley. There was a comfortable laughter and lively spirit and I thought I caught a glimpse of my Irish crew...sure enough there they were...then George comes over with a glass of wine for me and I felt some of my dearest pilgrim friends were all here in this same small town and I think I felt the most comfort I have had on this whole trip...things were looking up after two hard days and I felt I was back in my group...the only ones missing were Big Bear and Little Bear who J spotted yesterday so it sounds like they were behind me. And of course Bond...who was back at home post injury but due in Santiago about the time I would arrive to walk to the coast.
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