Whew what a day. I slept well, noticed the sun was out and slightly freaked in that I was supposed to meet J and M out in front of my auberge at 8:15, the sun rises after 8 do I felt I had missed them but had comfort we'd meet up in route over coffee or something. I got up and did the quick dance to the bathroom, I always pick the top bunk as I feel it is more ventilated but because of this I hold my pee all night as to not wake up everyone. That might be way more information than anyone wants to hear BUT talking of pee, blisters, stench and gas is common talk out here...I guess you take away all of our luxuries equip us with just the stuff to survive and work your body hard that is what it all boils down to. When I got out of the bathroom someone shared I had a note on my bed, ends up M and J left it for me when I was asleep and it said "we know you need your sleep from your long walk yesterday so we'll see you on the way ". Lucky for me they decided to stop and get coffee and a breakfast and then they swung by again. They waited for me to pack and for me to run get a coffee and then we were off...I love these two.
The landscapes were stunning, my group would stop and smell the roses, talk to the dogs and cats and I was in the company I needed to be in. While I have loved these two since early in my travels I never really knew them and was so glad to finally get to know them. We spoke of our children and it was so nice to get this opportunity as you don't get it often here for some reason. J and her hubby have raised the most marvelous son in M, he is 19 and an old soul they have the most dynamic relationship and J is such an inspiration to me as a mom, the mutual respect these two give to each other is beautiful. Amazingly they had watch the movie THE WAY and said,"let's do it" and in two weeks were feet on the ground in St. Jean. They have my original fly out date of the sixteenth and we chatted how if we picked up the pace a bit and alleviated a full stage or so and got to Santiago on the tenth we would have enough time to get to the coast via walking...we got on it and we're off with this mission.
At about six thirty or so it appeared it might start to sprinkle, we had no definite end point in site but I had marked a nice auberge off in my book so that was our tentative plan. When it appeared it was about to rain and we saw a very nice looking auberge we stopped hoping to get a room...many people were relaxed and drinking and it ended up the place was "complete", which means full. We donned rain gear and headed off...about an hour later we found another auberge that was full as well but when we showed her the book with my original spot on it the owner was kind enough to call them...they had rooms and urged us to come on now, we figured we were ninety minutes away. We think they said get there by nine. We had to walk in the dark thru dome woods on rocky trails, M and I were proud to sport our headlamps as it justified their purchase and more importantly carrying around their weight for all of these days. We pulled up to this gorgeous auberge that looked like an old stone building that a skilled architect had added to and made it a haven to stay at. Lights were on in the courtyard, not a soul in the bar...we looked in the windows and not a person appeared to be staying there. It was 9:02...we had no idea what to do. We knocked on the windows and doors to no avail, a frog presented himself and went under the door to the inside. I was pretty certain we were going to be sleeping outside and was already picking out the three spots that would supply us a bed when the door opened and a pilgrim staying the night on the top floor let us in, we picked three wonderful beds in a room in a far off corner with huge stone walls and felt like the luckiest people in the world. As I crawled into bed there near the door beside my bed (a door made into a window) was Mr. Frog,M got a chuckle as I said without noticing I did do , "hey handsome " to the frog. We all slept great.
She Follows Shells...
Friday, October 12, 2012
Wednesday, October 10, 2012
STAGE TWENTY SIX: to Triacastela
Wow what a day...super long but I felt great and am so happy. I left my American girlfriends with a slight dilemma they had all of their stuff to get dried and were negotiating with the hotel owner how exactly to pull that off, he had a washer just not a dryer. I wish I had gotten to them before this man talked them into washing all of their stuff because they had zero signs of bedbugs and he made money off of them charging them to wash their clothes and now they were stuck with wet clothes.
I passed thru some gorgeous small towns today, beautiful stone buildings with colored flowers and flower boxes...I love this stretch, cows are common place and the animals look so loved. I think I officially reach Galacia today, green and gorgeous but known for its rain. I have only had to walk in the rain twenty minutes...I had a whole day of rain after that walk that involved sitting in an auberge all cold and wet, but it was intimate. We are so lucky to not have had to walk in the rain, I think this is very uncommon.
I climbed O'Cebreiro 1200 meters for sixteen kilometers...it was amazing and my strength is so much stronger than the first day. O'Cebreiro was a small place that looked like it belonged in a fairy tale, I actually felt like I had been there before, I know when I was little my parents took me to Santiago but I really wonder if I had been here too. I looked at some gorgeous handmade jewelry and am pretty sure I will get me a little something special to remember my trip. A lot of folks were gathered here eating, many were staying put for the night...I would stop and order octopus from a cute restaurant that looked like it belonged in Hansel and Gretel. I couldn't eat it all but kept getting up out of my chair to take it outside to feed three cats, one pretty badly deformed who I made sure got the most.
As I walked out of the town I questioned two maps and shared with others behind me that I thought there was a Forrest route and we could get out of the road, .they followed me and we were thrilled to get off of the road. One of these guys was George who saved me at the bank and who only knew me crying and stressed when the machine ate my card. he said he told God," please let me meet that girl again so I can see the happy pilgrim I know she is", it was wonderful walking a few hours with him and his nephew.
I would continue on and walk from this point on a full days more hike. George sounded like he had the same plan and while we didn't walk the full thing together it was great to have such a long common goal as this was not a normal undertaking. I was tired I was in the circle or near the circle of friends I had started with and really wanted to finish the trip with the folks I started with. While I had not started with my Irish crew I selfishly wanted to end with them too... With their pace I felt that possible. I was not certain I would see them again but assumed once in Santiago I would as we all do funnel right there into it.
I would walk till about seven tonight and would come to my resting stop fearful there would be no bed available for me...this was the end of a typical stage in a popular book used and ending at these suggested stages could create problems when looking for a bed. I passed right by the public auberge, my gut told me to keep going sniffing out a better spot. Two nice Spanish guys would share they are staying at a wonderful spot and that they were pretty certain it was full but we would go there and double check. There in front with his head in a journal was M from Colorado, mentioned way back when I walked with my two Irish buddies weeks ago. M is a dancer, and while out on injury he and his wonderful mom, gorgeous and a few years older than I am (two kiddos out of the house one in high school) decided to walk the Camino and gave themselves two weeks from "let's do it" to airplane. He ran and got J his mom and we all went to try and find me an auberge, we passed one that didn't sit well with me and then as you leave town there was this most precious auberge that resembled a restored barn, sweet and loved and the gal who checked me in was so proud of it. in this place were many people that I have shared this journey with, my heart filled with warmth. We ran to a grocery store as tomorrows stage had a long part where there was no food or drink available. While at the grocery store I ran into one of my young friends from France, cool P who is super artsy wears his black hair in a ponytail and just super cool. I was trying to catch up information on his group of the youngsters (late twenty something's I think) and he shared dear Adelaide was in the hospital in Ponferedda due to diabetes, I feared it might be from that long day when my last image of her was with my Ukele friend skipping down the path. I teared up to hear this and Paul instantly assured me she would be ok and would of course continue on when out. She started in Brussels in June!
I kissed M and J goodnight and was wandering back to my auberge when I heard what sounded like a private party down an alley. There was a comfortable laughter and lively spirit and I thought I caught a glimpse of my Irish crew...sure enough there they were...then George comes over with a glass of wine for me and I felt some of my dearest pilgrim friends were all here in this same small town and I think I felt the most comfort I have had on this whole trip...things were looking up after two hard days and I felt I was back in my group...the only ones missing were Big Bear and Little Bear who J spotted yesterday so it sounds like they were behind me. And of course Bond...who was back at home post injury but due in Santiago about the time I would arrive to walk to the coast.
I passed thru some gorgeous small towns today, beautiful stone buildings with colored flowers and flower boxes...I love this stretch, cows are common place and the animals look so loved. I think I officially reach Galacia today, green and gorgeous but known for its rain. I have only had to walk in the rain twenty minutes...I had a whole day of rain after that walk that involved sitting in an auberge all cold and wet, but it was intimate. We are so lucky to not have had to walk in the rain, I think this is very uncommon.
I climbed O'Cebreiro 1200 meters for sixteen kilometers...it was amazing and my strength is so much stronger than the first day. O'Cebreiro was a small place that looked like it belonged in a fairy tale, I actually felt like I had been there before, I know when I was little my parents took me to Santiago but I really wonder if I had been here too. I looked at some gorgeous handmade jewelry and am pretty sure I will get me a little something special to remember my trip. A lot of folks were gathered here eating, many were staying put for the night...I would stop and order octopus from a cute restaurant that looked like it belonged in Hansel and Gretel. I couldn't eat it all but kept getting up out of my chair to take it outside to feed three cats, one pretty badly deformed who I made sure got the most.
As I walked out of the town I questioned two maps and shared with others behind me that I thought there was a Forrest route and we could get out of the road, .they followed me and we were thrilled to get off of the road. One of these guys was George who saved me at the bank and who only knew me crying and stressed when the machine ate my card. he said he told God," please let me meet that girl again so I can see the happy pilgrim I know she is", it was wonderful walking a few hours with him and his nephew.
I would continue on and walk from this point on a full days more hike. George sounded like he had the same plan and while we didn't walk the full thing together it was great to have such a long common goal as this was not a normal undertaking. I was tired I was in the circle or near the circle of friends I had started with and really wanted to finish the trip with the folks I started with. While I had not started with my Irish crew I selfishly wanted to end with them too... With their pace I felt that possible. I was not certain I would see them again but assumed once in Santiago I would as we all do funnel right there into it.
I would walk till about seven tonight and would come to my resting stop fearful there would be no bed available for me...this was the end of a typical stage in a popular book used and ending at these suggested stages could create problems when looking for a bed. I passed right by the public auberge, my gut told me to keep going sniffing out a better spot. Two nice Spanish guys would share they are staying at a wonderful spot and that they were pretty certain it was full but we would go there and double check. There in front with his head in a journal was M from Colorado, mentioned way back when I walked with my two Irish buddies weeks ago. M is a dancer, and while out on injury he and his wonderful mom, gorgeous and a few years older than I am (two kiddos out of the house one in high school) decided to walk the Camino and gave themselves two weeks from "let's do it" to airplane. He ran and got J his mom and we all went to try and find me an auberge, we passed one that didn't sit well with me and then as you leave town there was this most precious auberge that resembled a restored barn, sweet and loved and the gal who checked me in was so proud of it. in this place were many people that I have shared this journey with, my heart filled with warmth. We ran to a grocery store as tomorrows stage had a long part where there was no food or drink available. While at the grocery store I ran into one of my young friends from France, cool P who is super artsy wears his black hair in a ponytail and just super cool. I was trying to catch up information on his group of the youngsters (late twenty something's I think) and he shared dear Adelaide was in the hospital in Ponferedda due to diabetes, I feared it might be from that long day when my last image of her was with my Ukele friend skipping down the path. I teared up to hear this and Paul instantly assured me she would be ok and would of course continue on when out. She started in Brussels in June!
I kissed M and J goodnight and was wandering back to my auberge when I heard what sounded like a private party down an alley. There was a comfortable laughter and lively spirit and I thought I caught a glimpse of my Irish crew...sure enough there they were...then George comes over with a glass of wine for me and I felt some of my dearest pilgrim friends were all here in this same small town and I think I felt the most comfort I have had on this whole trip...things were looking up after two hard days and I felt I was back in my group...the only ones missing were Big Bear and Little Bear who J spotted yesterday so it sounds like they were behind me. And of course Bond...who was back at home post injury but due in Santiago about the time I would arrive to walk to the coast.
STAGE TWENTY FIVE: Cacabelos to La Portela de Valcarce
I slept in again at this little spot, not a glamorous spot but the hospitilario Vicente is friends with Carlos from the night before so it was on my radar. At one point as I was hanging my laundry my underwear fell to the ground ( there is little private here in the auberges) and Vicente picked it up and started swinging it over his head, i know the Camino was originally a religious pilgrimage and wondered how does he know i am mot a nun...
Anywho I was one of the last to leave
The next big town was VillaFranca where I really thought I was going to try to make it to last night, had I attempted it it would have been another two hours at least AND rumor is the auberge I was hoping to stay at (a friend of Carlos') had bedbugs. I got to VillaFranca about eleven and imagined that Mary had set out from there a good four and a half hours earlier. I got turned around in VillaFranca and took a wrong turn down a hill, it was no biggie but it threw me off a good forty minutes, fortunately I stopped to get directions at a bike shop where two bike pilgrims were getting something fixed, they were very nice and pointed me in the right direction. I think they were married and I would see them thru out the next two days off and on. Today's route outside of VillaFranca had three options, I actually thought it had two...one a very steep climb over the mountain called The Dragon Net, I actually wanted to do this but the book made reference to this being a good eight or so hours and it was one by the time I was done eating and ready to set back out, three young guys at a bar/restaurant talked me out of it and I back tracked to go up the road where two sweet locals pointed the way. had I not followed the two locals directions I might have noticed there was a third Orion thru the woods...my option took me for hours on the road, this would be my largest Camino disappointment to date. My feet throbbed as I was walked and I finally ended up in the woods. I stopped one time and had a nice conversation with a young guy from Belgium, Squiddly Diddly would also make an appearance. These young European guys on the Camino all roll their own cigarettes, I am amazed with I think no exception that they all smoke. There were a few temptations to stop, usually a pilgrim you recognize already showered with a drink in hand and flip flops on. Sometimes you pass them jealous they are done other times you walk by like you own the World and know something special that they don't.
Tomorrow is the highest elevation to climb so it is best to plan the stop tonight accordingly. My notes show some wonderful auberges coming up but their distance is almost out of reach for the day, though I would certainly try.
I walked past a modern building that was a hotel with an add on auberge, not typically my kind of place being all modern but I overhead two American ladies chatting and turned to see two great women who I had had coffee with just about two days before. They were having the time of their lives, dear friends laughing harder than anyone I have ever witnessed and were dressed in sarongs hanging all of their clothes out to dry (and it was late afternoon). Seems they had stayed in a place they thought might have bedbugs and the host/owner here suggested they wash their clothes. They said how nice this place was, how they justified staying there knowing it was super clean, had a killer menu and that we would be alone in a two bunk bed room. I hopped right on in and had a wonderful evening with these gals. It almost seemed like a break from the Camino as I had never walked with them or really knew them as pilgrims. THe dinner was fabulous, I had trout stuffed with ham and from our window we watched cows graze and a Turkish Anatolian Shephard bark. I slept great, I forgot what time I would wake in the morning, I think about seven or so, the restaurant opened at eight and I would have my typical coffee, orange juice and pastry.
The gals clothes were still damp and as I left they were trying to find a dryer to dry them, we had set up our room with all of the devices to dry but it was still to damp.
I would head out to one of my longest and most beautiful walks yet...
Anywho I was one of the last to leave
The next big town was VillaFranca where I really thought I was going to try to make it to last night, had I attempted it it would have been another two hours at least AND rumor is the auberge I was hoping to stay at (a friend of Carlos') had bedbugs. I got to VillaFranca about eleven and imagined that Mary had set out from there a good four and a half hours earlier. I got turned around in VillaFranca and took a wrong turn down a hill, it was no biggie but it threw me off a good forty minutes, fortunately I stopped to get directions at a bike shop where two bike pilgrims were getting something fixed, they were very nice and pointed me in the right direction. I think they were married and I would see them thru out the next two days off and on. Today's route outside of VillaFranca had three options, I actually thought it had two...one a very steep climb over the mountain called The Dragon Net, I actually wanted to do this but the book made reference to this being a good eight or so hours and it was one by the time I was done eating and ready to set back out, three young guys at a bar/restaurant talked me out of it and I back tracked to go up the road where two sweet locals pointed the way. had I not followed the two locals directions I might have noticed there was a third Orion thru the woods...my option took me for hours on the road, this would be my largest Camino disappointment to date. My feet throbbed as I was walked and I finally ended up in the woods. I stopped one time and had a nice conversation with a young guy from Belgium, Squiddly Diddly would also make an appearance. These young European guys on the Camino all roll their own cigarettes, I am amazed with I think no exception that they all smoke. There were a few temptations to stop, usually a pilgrim you recognize already showered with a drink in hand and flip flops on. Sometimes you pass them jealous they are done other times you walk by like you own the World and know something special that they don't.
Tomorrow is the highest elevation to climb so it is best to plan the stop tonight accordingly. My notes show some wonderful auberges coming up but their distance is almost out of reach for the day, though I would certainly try.
I walked past a modern building that was a hotel with an add on auberge, not typically my kind of place being all modern but I overhead two American ladies chatting and turned to see two great women who I had had coffee with just about two days before. They were having the time of their lives, dear friends laughing harder than anyone I have ever witnessed and were dressed in sarongs hanging all of their clothes out to dry (and it was late afternoon). Seems they had stayed in a place they thought might have bedbugs and the host/owner here suggested they wash their clothes. They said how nice this place was, how they justified staying there knowing it was super clean, had a killer menu and that we would be alone in a two bunk bed room. I hopped right on in and had a wonderful evening with these gals. It almost seemed like a break from the Camino as I had never walked with them or really knew them as pilgrims. THe dinner was fabulous, I had trout stuffed with ham and from our window we watched cows graze and a Turkish Anatolian Shephard bark. I slept great, I forgot what time I would wake in the morning, I think about seven or so, the restaurant opened at eight and I would have my typical coffee, orange juice and pastry.
The gals clothes were still damp and as I left they were trying to find a dryer to dry them, we had set up our room with all of the devices to dry but it was still to damp.
I would head out to one of my longest and most beautiful walks yet...
Tuesday, October 9, 2012
STAGE TWENTY FOUR: Acebo to Cacabelos
This would be one of my hardest days, it sure did start off beautiful though. Carlos urged us to sleep in, not to wake up early but to be out by eight so we could see the pretty sunset. He supplied toast and a coffee that was instant...I skipped the breakfast knowing I would get a cafe con leche enroute. I gave these two wonderful hospillarios a huge hug, I adored them both and it is hosts like this that make the Camino so special. My clothes smell clean for the first time, thank you Carlos! I was off in the dark and enjoyed the sunrise behind me.
There has been talk on the forums about a sweet lady who chases pilgrims in the morning offering them pancakes (for donation of course), I have said since I first heard of her that I want to be chased by the pancake lady. I'm not certain where exactly she is but I know it is near the end...
I've been thinking all day that I might have missed my pancake moment. The town past the one I stayed in was very small filled with beautiful old stones homes and gorgeous flowers . The sun was just coming up and I took the marked path from the sweet street to the woods and saw a lady opening her upstairs window. Behind me as I approached the woods I heard," AMERIA", which sounded like a females name...they said it about three times. Fifteen minutes later I was processing this some and wonder if it was the pancake lady trying to get my attention with my American patch (AMERIA).
This day would start simply beautiful but would end on hard pavement and might be chalked up as my most difficult day to date. I went thru the town of Ponferrada with a gorgeous Templar castle, I'd walk a little with Squiddly Diddly... we just kind of run into each other often but only walk about fifteen minutes together. Ponferreda is pretty touristy due to the castle, I went into it today as it was free. I read somewhere that someone suggested just walking on by it, but I ventured up the touristy hill and went to the bank machine as I was getting semi low on cash. I put my debit card in the machine and heard it clearly DROP to the floor once in the machine. I did not know what the prompt on the machine said but went inside to tell them. A nice guy was trying to help me outcast the machine and urged me to then go in when we could not get it out. The teller opened the machine, pulled out the tray that collects cards and my card was not there. I panicked and told them I heard it drop to the floor, they opened the machine and did not see it. I think the lady was giving up looking for it and about to try to convince me that the nice man outside might have taken it when I came inside , I knew this was not the case as I clearly heard the abnormal sound of my card falling to the ground inside the machine. Thank God an American named George who was fluent in Spanish walked in, he was like my rock hecwascsteady and calm in conversation and I was just starting to blubber away at the thought of losing my debit card and all it involved to get a new one. I think since George was fluent and slightly resembled a Spaniard they kept looking... An hour later they found my card.
I would forever today...a funny moment would happen when I saw four turkeys caged in a front yard in a town, I found myself talking to them telling them they were pretty and taking their picture I then turned around to a Middle aged over weight Spanish guy staring at me like I was crazy.
I had hopes to go further ... But stopped in a town called Cacabelos, there waiting for a car to drive them to a restaurant affiliated with our auberge was Father and Tom, seems Mary had gone ahead and that they actually had lost each other the day before when she passed the planned Acebo stop and they went on one more stop to my original destination that I wanted prior to my fall. We were scattered over three consecutive towns, tonight we were separated in two but a good hour and a half separated us from Mary.
I chose a shower as they were getting ready to go to dinner, and I walked over a bridge and had a pizza surrounded by locals watching a soccer game. I would sleep well tonight and looked forward to a new refreshing day...this was a hard one emotionally and I have lost my confidence in my walk since my fall. My ankle is swollen and hurts but I am so fortunate I think it has had no effect on me.
There has been talk on the forums about a sweet lady who chases pilgrims in the morning offering them pancakes (for donation of course), I have said since I first heard of her that I want to be chased by the pancake lady. I'm not certain where exactly she is but I know it is near the end...
I've been thinking all day that I might have missed my pancake moment. The town past the one I stayed in was very small filled with beautiful old stones homes and gorgeous flowers . The sun was just coming up and I took the marked path from the sweet street to the woods and saw a lady opening her upstairs window. Behind me as I approached the woods I heard," AMERIA", which sounded like a females name...they said it about three times. Fifteen minutes later I was processing this some and wonder if it was the pancake lady trying to get my attention with my American patch (AMERIA).
This day would start simply beautiful but would end on hard pavement and might be chalked up as my most difficult day to date. I went thru the town of Ponferrada with a gorgeous Templar castle, I'd walk a little with Squiddly Diddly... we just kind of run into each other often but only walk about fifteen minutes together. Ponferreda is pretty touristy due to the castle, I went into it today as it was free. I read somewhere that someone suggested just walking on by it, but I ventured up the touristy hill and went to the bank machine as I was getting semi low on cash. I put my debit card in the machine and heard it clearly DROP to the floor once in the machine. I did not know what the prompt on the machine said but went inside to tell them. A nice guy was trying to help me outcast the machine and urged me to then go in when we could not get it out. The teller opened the machine, pulled out the tray that collects cards and my card was not there. I panicked and told them I heard it drop to the floor, they opened the machine and did not see it. I think the lady was giving up looking for it and about to try to convince me that the nice man outside might have taken it when I came inside , I knew this was not the case as I clearly heard the abnormal sound of my card falling to the ground inside the machine. Thank God an American named George who was fluent in Spanish walked in, he was like my rock hecwascsteady and calm in conversation and I was just starting to blubber away at the thought of losing my debit card and all it involved to get a new one. I think since George was fluent and slightly resembled a Spaniard they kept looking... An hour later they found my card.
I would forever today...a funny moment would happen when I saw four turkeys caged in a front yard in a town, I found myself talking to them telling them they were pretty and taking their picture I then turned around to a Middle aged over weight Spanish guy staring at me like I was crazy.
I had hopes to go further ... But stopped in a town called Cacabelos, there waiting for a car to drive them to a restaurant affiliated with our auberge was Father and Tom, seems Mary had gone ahead and that they actually had lost each other the day before when she passed the planned Acebo stop and they went on one more stop to my original destination that I wanted prior to my fall. We were scattered over three consecutive towns, tonight we were separated in two but a good hour and a half separated us from Mary.
I chose a shower as they were getting ready to go to dinner, and I walked over a bridge and had a pizza surrounded by locals watching a soccer game. I would sleep well tonight and looked forward to a new refreshing day...this was a hard one emotionally and I have lost my confidence in my walk since my fall. My ankle is swollen and hurts but I am so fortunate I think it has had no effect on me.
STAGE TWENTY THREE: Santa Catalina to Acebo
Today was a gorgeous day, we have only had rain for one day that impacted my walking for only twenty minutes. We have been forewarned that once we hit our last few days in Galicia that it rains often, not certain how I will handle that but I clearly feel blessed that I have not had to deal with that yet. I am feeling a huge desire to get caught up for the days I got behind in Burgos, there are some faces I really want to see. Today's walk would be gorgeous with a nice climb and a huge decent, most hate the decents, I seem to handle them fine...until today.
Today's walk would involve one of the most if not the most famous Camino tradition...putting a stone from home at the base of the Cruz de Fero ( The Iron Cross), this has been looked forward to me since the planning of my trip started and the kids took great pride in picking my special rock, complete with pink and green bow. I was fortunate to start walking with a guy from Italy about forty minutes before arriving to the cross, I got to share the experience with him but also had someone to take my pictures and I of course took his. About an hour from the cross I saw a piece of slate shaped like a fish I grabbed it as it symbolized Christianity to me and thought I would offer up my rock (and a few I had gathered) on this fish shaped rock, then my mental disorder kicked in and I picked up some sticks and then a rather large piece of slate in the shape of a chapel or even a home. I carried this rather large home shaped rock for at least an hour and one guy even ran up to me and said his mom was dying to know what was up with the huge slate. I made a precious presentation at the base of that cross...my main prayers and thoughts there were to ask for healing in my dear girlfriends with cancer, and while all are doing great kicking cancers butt they are on my mind more on this trip then they will ever know.
So injury free and no doubt of my arrival to Santiago I proceed...
I was coming down out of the Forrest into Acebo, a huge decent that was all slate, I think shard is what they call it, I have pictures to show it...it was very dangerous. I bopped thru it almost effortlessly and a French couple with poles came behind me, the female was super quick and we kept a great pace. Many people comment that I don't use poles, I just have no desire. Daily I get the lecture how they will help me. I forgot if I shared that I did buy a walking stick way back in Puenta La Reina and gave that puppy up within twenty four hours, I placed it beside a church and only wish I had the stuff to make sign for it saying, "free to good pilgrim".
So I was descending into Acebo with the thought of getting a drink and moving on thru to Molonaseca. I fell straight on my face on the shard, the French couple came running and helped me up. The female was so sweet and offered me one of her poles, I'm pretty convinced it could not have hurt me but I also knew I had no idea how to use them do the sweet offer did not appeal to me. I let them go on and slowed up just a bit, instantly I got emotional on how such a fall on this stone could be a " Camino changer", how did I not get injured...these rocks are huge with many sharp areas. No sooner was I counting my blessings when I fell again... This would be a huge fall, and for the first time as I laid on the ground by myself crying I thought I just might have injured myself where I can 't go on. My ankle was killing me, my knee hurt... I was bleeding thru my clothes at the elbow, ankle and knee... I could not get up as I had fallen forward and then went to my side on my back. Like a turtle with my heavy pack I had to take it off from the ground. I got up thinking my biggest injury was my ankle, I was scared. I wobbled on into town very slowly. There was a large crowd at the first open bar...this is the way almost all evening stops would be...a beautiful welcoming by pilgrims that arrived before you, showered and changed and were now as relaxed as could be welcoming others. I didn't recognize anyone...but we exchanged our "hola" with grande Camino enthusiasm and one of the females said, "come take some weight off of your back". I said let me run find a place to stay and I promised I'd be back. MY injury was not obvious, and my ankle was throbbing, I could also feel the blood dripping. I had no idea if Father, Tom and Mary were here or not but I knew I had experienced a game changer and had no choice but to call it a day. This sweet town had a street going thru it, still running at a descent and gorgeous stone buildings...it was beautiful and festive.
I stopped a man who walked proudly in trekking clothes down the street and asked him where the aubergue was. He did not try to influence me at all but said pointing, " albergue private",and then pointed down the street and said, " albergue parochial ". I found myself going right to the parochial one without even thinking about it and am so glad I did. I entered to the nicest older man welcoming me in, explaining we would do a community dinner and only a donation is asked for. I typically spend a little more at these donation places, though I could spend not a cent I value these special community dinners. IN walks the gentleman I saw from the street who I had asked directions from to the auberges, his name is Carlos he is Spanish and he is the hospillario (volunteer host) of this auberge, he has two green ( ripe and delicious) melons in his hands and had been shopping for dinner. He sees I am injured and washes my clothes for me.
I ran back out to the first restaurant as you enter the town and sit with a group and get a nice sangria. Dinner was wonderful, Carlos had made a bean soup and a nice salad, we went around the table saying where we are from and then he asked the different nationalities to sing a song...we all would sing," Bye Bye Miss American Pie" and everyone attempted to chime in.
THis day I would stop and take a break at a hut on the side of the road, there would be literature referencing a pilgrimage to 88 temples in Japan...tonight at dinner a Korean couple would mention this pilgrimage:).
A guy who I have run into a few times would be on the top bunk right near me...he is from Switzerland, I call him "Squiddly Diddley" because on site he reminds me of an old friend from our HHH days (running group) nick named Squiddly Diddley...this guy walks super fast, very tall...filled with the stats of the day and stages and chain smokes like a champ. Amazing all of the smoking pilgrims...
I would also share a room with a gal I really like named G from the States. Interesting gal, retired teacher always so happy and very fit but she does her Camino very different than mine. I only mention this to educate a bit about the Camino...but there are those like myself who clearly have the desire to walk the pilgrimage, a few have to get into cars to get them to a next town if all auberges are full but they are clearly walking pilgrims...but there are many it appears who take taxis or even buses from point to point... They'll walk the "pretty" parts but hop in a taxi in a heart beat. They evidently are not supposed to be able to stay at the cheaper auberges if doing this but they have it down as you run into them at the aubergues every evening. I'm not judging just describing something that happens and there is a lot of talk about it while walking. I've walked with G before and she has an awesome pace, she could do this...but she describes in detail the skipping of the "boring" parts. I keep my mouth shut but I have found little to nothing boring about any second of my Camino but even if there is a boring stretch the Camino has way more to offer than just landscape...the people make most of the Camino.
Today's walk would involve one of the most if not the most famous Camino tradition...putting a stone from home at the base of the Cruz de Fero ( The Iron Cross), this has been looked forward to me since the planning of my trip started and the kids took great pride in picking my special rock, complete with pink and green bow. I was fortunate to start walking with a guy from Italy about forty minutes before arriving to the cross, I got to share the experience with him but also had someone to take my pictures and I of course took his. About an hour from the cross I saw a piece of slate shaped like a fish I grabbed it as it symbolized Christianity to me and thought I would offer up my rock (and a few I had gathered) on this fish shaped rock, then my mental disorder kicked in and I picked up some sticks and then a rather large piece of slate in the shape of a chapel or even a home. I carried this rather large home shaped rock for at least an hour and one guy even ran up to me and said his mom was dying to know what was up with the huge slate. I made a precious presentation at the base of that cross...my main prayers and thoughts there were to ask for healing in my dear girlfriends with cancer, and while all are doing great kicking cancers butt they are on my mind more on this trip then they will ever know.
So injury free and no doubt of my arrival to Santiago I proceed...
I was coming down out of the Forrest into Acebo, a huge decent that was all slate, I think shard is what they call it, I have pictures to show it...it was very dangerous. I bopped thru it almost effortlessly and a French couple with poles came behind me, the female was super quick and we kept a great pace. Many people comment that I don't use poles, I just have no desire. Daily I get the lecture how they will help me. I forgot if I shared that I did buy a walking stick way back in Puenta La Reina and gave that puppy up within twenty four hours, I placed it beside a church and only wish I had the stuff to make sign for it saying, "free to good pilgrim".
So I was descending into Acebo with the thought of getting a drink and moving on thru to Molonaseca. I fell straight on my face on the shard, the French couple came running and helped me up. The female was so sweet and offered me one of her poles, I'm pretty convinced it could not have hurt me but I also knew I had no idea how to use them do the sweet offer did not appeal to me. I let them go on and slowed up just a bit, instantly I got emotional on how such a fall on this stone could be a " Camino changer", how did I not get injured...these rocks are huge with many sharp areas. No sooner was I counting my blessings when I fell again... This would be a huge fall, and for the first time as I laid on the ground by myself crying I thought I just might have injured myself where I can 't go on. My ankle was killing me, my knee hurt... I was bleeding thru my clothes at the elbow, ankle and knee... I could not get up as I had fallen forward and then went to my side on my back. Like a turtle with my heavy pack I had to take it off from the ground. I got up thinking my biggest injury was my ankle, I was scared. I wobbled on into town very slowly. There was a large crowd at the first open bar...this is the way almost all evening stops would be...a beautiful welcoming by pilgrims that arrived before you, showered and changed and were now as relaxed as could be welcoming others. I didn't recognize anyone...but we exchanged our "hola" with grande Camino enthusiasm and one of the females said, "come take some weight off of your back". I said let me run find a place to stay and I promised I'd be back. MY injury was not obvious, and my ankle was throbbing, I could also feel the blood dripping. I had no idea if Father, Tom and Mary were here or not but I knew I had experienced a game changer and had no choice but to call it a day. This sweet town had a street going thru it, still running at a descent and gorgeous stone buildings...it was beautiful and festive.
I stopped a man who walked proudly in trekking clothes down the street and asked him where the aubergue was. He did not try to influence me at all but said pointing, " albergue private",and then pointed down the street and said, " albergue parochial ". I found myself going right to the parochial one without even thinking about it and am so glad I did. I entered to the nicest older man welcoming me in, explaining we would do a community dinner and only a donation is asked for. I typically spend a little more at these donation places, though I could spend not a cent I value these special community dinners. IN walks the gentleman I saw from the street who I had asked directions from to the auberges, his name is Carlos he is Spanish and he is the hospillario (volunteer host) of this auberge, he has two green ( ripe and delicious) melons in his hands and had been shopping for dinner. He sees I am injured and washes my clothes for me.
I ran back out to the first restaurant as you enter the town and sit with a group and get a nice sangria. Dinner was wonderful, Carlos had made a bean soup and a nice salad, we went around the table saying where we are from and then he asked the different nationalities to sing a song...we all would sing," Bye Bye Miss American Pie" and everyone attempted to chime in.
THis day I would stop and take a break at a hut on the side of the road, there would be literature referencing a pilgrimage to 88 temples in Japan...tonight at dinner a Korean couple would mention this pilgrimage:).
A guy who I have run into a few times would be on the top bunk right near me...he is from Switzerland, I call him "Squiddly Diddley" because on site he reminds me of an old friend from our HHH days (running group) nick named Squiddly Diddley...this guy walks super fast, very tall...filled with the stats of the day and stages and chain smokes like a champ. Amazing all of the smoking pilgrims...
I would also share a room with a gal I really like named G from the States. Interesting gal, retired teacher always so happy and very fit but she does her Camino very different than mine. I only mention this to educate a bit about the Camino...but there are those like myself who clearly have the desire to walk the pilgrimage, a few have to get into cars to get them to a next town if all auberges are full but they are clearly walking pilgrims...but there are many it appears who take taxis or even buses from point to point... They'll walk the "pretty" parts but hop in a taxi in a heart beat. They evidently are not supposed to be able to stay at the cheaper auberges if doing this but they have it down as you run into them at the aubergues every evening. I'm not judging just describing something that happens and there is a lot of talk about it while walking. I've walked with G before and she has an awesome pace, she could do this...but she describes in detail the skipping of the "boring" parts. I keep my mouth shut but I have found little to nothing boring about any second of my Camino but even if there is a boring stretch the Camino has way more to offer than just landscape...the people make most of the Camino.
STAGE TWENTY TWO: Hospital de Orbigo to Santa Catalina
Oh what a day!!!
I was one of the last out of the auberge this morning,I think a time of like eight am... I suspect my lovely Irish crew of Father, Tom and Mary was a good two hours ahead...I was totally fine with that. Father had shared that he thought they would stop in Santa Catarina so I had that in my mind but we also all agreed that we would never really know where we would end up of we decided to walk further or less. We had a large hill in a wooded area this morning and one nice sized town to go they enroute...Astorga. I passed a hippyish set up towards to the top of the hill about to decend into the town,where a guy had set up a home in the wilderness catering to pilgrims. He had a self service set up where you could make your own tea etc... A hammock and a nice sleeping area, I was on a roll and too lazy to take off my backpack but in hindsight I wished I had stopped and chatted with him.
When I reached the top of the hill overlooking the nice sized town, some people were getting back on trail from a nice rest area there. One guy seemed to start up to catch up with me, I heard his poles and went into overdrive...I could hear him going even faster at which I almost went into a full run, I was determined not to listen to his poles hitting the ground in this gorgeous forrest. Ahead of me I saw a person with a backpack, blue dock Martin high top boots, a scarf that resembled one from the middle east but it was pink and white, the resin wore a leather hat and carried a ukele (small guitar), I will be honest I could not tell if the person was a male or female, I really had little interest for conversation but as I was running away from clicking sticks I did luck out to get to here the strumming of this ukele and enjoyed it. As I was passing 'I' and I would strike up a conversation and benefitted immensely from the wonderful conversation to be had over the next several hours. 'I' is part Canadian and English and travels all over the world doing comedy, a funny soul who creates characters and does filming in character. This is his second Camino, the first done in full with a seven month stint working as a hospillario (volunteer at an auberge). He is not doing this full Camino as her has acquired friends in these travels and during his volunteer time and is heading to the coast to surf after a few days on trail, his whole life seemed kind of up in the air and I orchestrated. He gave me some wonderful insight into raising sons, he is late twenties but shared some similar stories to our families circumstances and I would leave this day determined to come back and walk the Camino with my three oldest sons. We pulled into a nice city on the hill called Astorga. I knew my three Irish buddies were going to spend two hours walking around this adorable town, my new buddy would suggest that we pop into a market to get stuff for lunch...we made sandwiches, chopped tomatoes with cheese and sat at a fountain and ate. Father, Tom and Mary had dropped the name of Santa Catrina being our stopping point so we headed in that direction and I passed an adorable aubergue and instantly saw Father ordering drinks...
My new buddy wanted to go on but did stick around for a bit of conversation and when I saw dear Adelaide (who has walked since early July from Brussels) come hopping down the bunny trail I sent both if them off together down the trail like a proud mama. Adelaide was trying to catch up with the young crew I was with in Tosantos, she would be walking until late but appeared happy to do so. As she hugged me goodbye to me she told me she was carrying my little Adelaide in her heart all the way to Santiago!
I would enjoy the night with my precious friends over dinner at our aubergue where they worked hard to supply a great meal.
I would walk by myself in the morning, which I enjoy, and your never alone for long out here. I'm starting to worry that I might lose my crew...I really like to stop and smell the roses and can do that and enjoy their company in the evening, but out here there are do many choices and just feeling really good might make you proceed further than you thought. My Irish crew has a place called Acebo picked out for tomorrow and I actually think I might push on, not a huge biggie in that if I am ahead it really just means their early start will have them walk by my town when my lazy self is just getting up.
I was one of the last out of the auberge this morning,I think a time of like eight am... I suspect my lovely Irish crew of Father, Tom and Mary was a good two hours ahead...I was totally fine with that. Father had shared that he thought they would stop in Santa Catarina so I had that in my mind but we also all agreed that we would never really know where we would end up of we decided to walk further or less. We had a large hill in a wooded area this morning and one nice sized town to go they enroute...Astorga. I passed a hippyish set up towards to the top of the hill about to decend into the town,where a guy had set up a home in the wilderness catering to pilgrims. He had a self service set up where you could make your own tea etc... A hammock and a nice sleeping area, I was on a roll and too lazy to take off my backpack but in hindsight I wished I had stopped and chatted with him.
When I reached the top of the hill overlooking the nice sized town, some people were getting back on trail from a nice rest area there. One guy seemed to start up to catch up with me, I heard his poles and went into overdrive...I could hear him going even faster at which I almost went into a full run, I was determined not to listen to his poles hitting the ground in this gorgeous forrest. Ahead of me I saw a person with a backpack, blue dock Martin high top boots, a scarf that resembled one from the middle east but it was pink and white, the resin wore a leather hat and carried a ukele (small guitar), I will be honest I could not tell if the person was a male or female, I really had little interest for conversation but as I was running away from clicking sticks I did luck out to get to here the strumming of this ukele and enjoyed it. As I was passing 'I' and I would strike up a conversation and benefitted immensely from the wonderful conversation to be had over the next several hours. 'I' is part Canadian and English and travels all over the world doing comedy, a funny soul who creates characters and does filming in character. This is his second Camino, the first done in full with a seven month stint working as a hospillario (volunteer at an auberge). He is not doing this full Camino as her has acquired friends in these travels and during his volunteer time and is heading to the coast to surf after a few days on trail, his whole life seemed kind of up in the air and I orchestrated. He gave me some wonderful insight into raising sons, he is late twenties but shared some similar stories to our families circumstances and I would leave this day determined to come back and walk the Camino with my three oldest sons. We pulled into a nice city on the hill called Astorga. I knew my three Irish buddies were going to spend two hours walking around this adorable town, my new buddy would suggest that we pop into a market to get stuff for lunch...we made sandwiches, chopped tomatoes with cheese and sat at a fountain and ate. Father, Tom and Mary had dropped the name of Santa Catrina being our stopping point so we headed in that direction and I passed an adorable aubergue and instantly saw Father ordering drinks...
My new buddy wanted to go on but did stick around for a bit of conversation and when I saw dear Adelaide (who has walked since early July from Brussels) come hopping down the bunny trail I sent both if them off together down the trail like a proud mama. Adelaide was trying to catch up with the young crew I was with in Tosantos, she would be walking until late but appeared happy to do so. As she hugged me goodbye to me she told me she was carrying my little Adelaide in her heart all the way to Santiago!
I would enjoy the night with my precious friends over dinner at our aubergue where they worked hard to supply a great meal.
I would walk by myself in the morning, which I enjoy, and your never alone for long out here. I'm starting to worry that I might lose my crew...I really like to stop and smell the roses and can do that and enjoy their company in the evening, but out here there are do many choices and just feeling really good might make you proceed further than you thought. My Irish crew has a place called Acebo picked out for tomorrow and I actually think I might push on, not a huge biggie in that if I am ahead it really just means their early start will have them walk by my town when my lazy self is just getting up.
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