I woke this morning with the laziest of intentions, an extra day in Burgos. You of course can't keep track of the days of the week but the energy in the main square last night told me it must be a weekend. I love family life here, couples are out strolling and the young children are just wild with play, you never see a stressful parent trying to hush them. I like how couples can be sitting out and enjoying a drink with not a care in the world and their children are in the center of the square kicking a ball and acting clearly as children do, the parents not at all feeling like they need to reign them in.
I had heard about an auberge right outside of Burgos over the river as you come in called Emaus, a parochial auberge I decided to head there and see if I could stay another night. I had two clear choices, a small auberge in the middle of everything opening at 12 or this softer calmer place opening at 2 according to the sign. I couldn't make out what the sign said in Spanish but the 2:00 was obvious. I wasn't convinced which was the best option for me until wandering around in the streets was G from India (lives in Milan, Italy) who said Emaus was what he needed having been there last night. I went on then to Emaus leaving the street cleaning cladder and had a peaceful walk to Emaus. The auberge was closed but the street was quiet , the door was gated closed and a children's playground was there in the courtyard. I had about five hours till they opened and made a decision without much thought to of course take my money, technology etc... and to leave my pack there for this coveted spot. In hindsight maybe a bigger gamble than I realized. I actually assumed the gate would be opened by someone and they would just move my bag within the walls of the auberge/church chapel. I have to say I have observed these wonderful hosts do such things often so in my opinion this was not far fetched. I returned to the cathedral area enjoyed coffee and conversation with other pilgrims and was about to go into the cathedral when I realized if I had my pilgrim passport I would get a discount and more importantly get my pilgrim passport stamped.
It was now about 12:30 and I would start the leisurely walk back over the river to Emaus. I arrived to the nicest group of ladies sitting out leaning on their packs, our conversation was nice and lighthearted filled with laugh and stories. One shared that the sign on the door written in Spanish said you could not stay here if you had arrived via bus and or stayed the night before in Burgos, one of us had arrived by bus all of the others had slept in Burgos the night before. My backpack was not there but I honestly didn't worry. When the door finally opened a sweet soft spoken man brought us in and upon entering the room where you typically take off your shoes and start the process I didn't see pack and slightly worried. He too felt it was probably safe inside the walls there but asked if I would wait till he registered folks before he started looking. I was calm, not really certain why but I was not panicking. About an hour passed and it was concluded that my pack was not there and still not panicking I got directions to the police station and walked there hoping that someone "found" my backpack. The police officer at the desk when I walked in was chatting with a lady and did not speak English but he gave me a phone number to call and I called it not really knowing what I was doing. It ends up I was calling a central number that took a report in English, the officer on the phone shared he was in Madrid and spoke excellent English he then asked me to hand the phone to the officer there and I did. They had had a changing of the guard and the new officer spoke a little English, I asked if they could tell me where to purchase new clothes, I needed sporting clothes and not just a normal clothing store. The main challenge and prep for a trip like this is quick dry light clothing. I still was not panicking but clearly in survival mode...what do I REALLY need? What did I have that I could live without? An amazing thing to have to think about. I have still what 3/4, of my trip still ahead of me and I am having to reconsider what I need to get me thru this. I packed well, I researched and planned extensively I have two pairs of everything but all were expensive, the best quality and my pack alone was about two hundred dollars. Javid, my hero police officer would quickly say, "we will take you to get your new clothes". A few minutes later a female officer and Javid led me down to the garage where we hopped into a police car and they drove me several miles to a huge sporting goods store called , Decathalon. Here I saw all of the brands I am seeing on the Camino. I bought a change of clothes as I had one on and a new sleeping bag and I stood in front the backpacks and picked up the lightest one. Javid and his partner had just dropped me off, he said , " you can catch the bus over here". I wondered how would I know which one to catch, but still not the slightest bit of anxiety had kicked in. Javid then said , " call us we will come back and get you" he then gave me the number to the police and his personal cell. Javid shared that my backpack would surface in three days, that someone stole it would realize that there was nothing in it of value ( to them) and it would be found somewhere. With that said I was all for purchasing a new light backpack until we filled it with weights and it felt so cheap almost like cardboard on my shoulders. I thought if Javid was right if my pack surfaced in three days then maybe I should gamble carry my stuff in a garbage bag and in three days time catch a taxi or pay a taxi to deliver the bag and what would be left in it. Of course ALL of these things entering my mind were contingent on so many different things. I honestly didn't know what to do and think I was clearly numb.
When I was done I called Javid and it was difficult to converse and his English is not fluent but I think I got across that I was done and he said something and I waited only hoping that he was indeed coming. There was no shade and oddly no place to sit outside of the store but this downtime of waiting started to give me my first thoughts of really what on Earth am I supposed to do now. I also realized that my pack carried the ashes of five of my precious dogs and that really got to me, I had a scoop of Spinnaker, Ama, Q, Buoy and Harbor...Steve could send me more, I would request them to be sent to Finesterre "the end of the world" and felt comfortable that I would get them. The image of where the backpack's ashes would end up upset me greatly. My daughters had made a felt pouch to carry the ashes in with an embroideried heart on it, Karfoo and Tee Tee had made me a ring that they worked on for two weeks that was in that same compartment of my backpack. Karfoo, I love him so, grew crystals to make me this ring, he polished them and glued them on the ring. They both eagerly presented me the ring out at the beach of a lake we have been visiting about a week before I left. They were so cute they had made an origami box for it and we're so proud. Tee Tee had picked out the rock for me to carry to put at the iron cross, I was upset to know that precious rock would not make its destination.
I hesitated to call Javid again, they had not arrived yet, I was so hot and dehydrated and still needed things like soap and a comb...and even a towel. I decided I could use a cotton scarf as a towel a trick someone told me about as they were trying to convince me I could dump my expensive REI towels(they were right by the way, though I never felt comfortable dumping such an expensive item). I called Javid again to make sure he understood me and more importantly that I had understood him, he might have very well just said , "catch the bus". I called again...this time he sounded like he said, "in ten minutes", at which time I called my friend Rabbit to tell her what had happened but did not tell Steve yet...
Ten minutes later Javid and some charming young police officer arrived with a fresh flirtatious amount of enthusiasm. Javid stayed pretty professional, nice but very office rush...but this young guy was clearly the most adorable guy I have ever met in my life...almost a character made to make this middle aged woman feel good. They pulled up and Javid went to get out of the car and I just immediately jumped in the back...I let out a slight scream as I literally jumped into the back seat BUT this car did not have upholstery and was a hard plastic, my bum was not prepared for the experience. Young cop turned with a smirk and huge dimples and said , " Madame this car is made for very bad, bad people".....
Ends up young cop had done the Camino via bike last year and was just simply charming... They asked if I needed anything else, of course I did but do you tell them. I was honest I needed soap, that morning I passed a boutique near the cathedral with handmade soap, I coukdn't justify a lavender soap when I was equipped but now I was ready to have an expensive lavender soap. I asked if they could get me " as close to the cathedral" as possible and that I would walk from there. They laughed and said,"close to the cathedral? Of course...we can go anywhere...we are the police madame".
Thru the old rock walked fortress arch they drove right into the trendy square where a symphony was playing and everyone was out at tables drinking and eating, THERE in front of all this celebration those two precious officers pulled up and hopped out of the car and opened my door as if it was a limousine and I was a movie star and dropped me off there in grand splendor. I hugged them each and got a picture of them.
Here I stood with a symphony playing and a table of older Englishman within inches of me. The most social one of the group clearly knew I must have some great story to share and asked what it was. Within seconds of starting the story he handed me a glass of wine and kept topping it off as needed. I got my soap and headed back to the auberge.
As I approached I felt my bag was now within the walls of it, wishful thinking maybe, but reality was kicking in and I knew that I might have new clothes and soap but that I clearly was not equipped for a Camino that still was half way complete. N from the Netherlands was laying in her bunk , I think I expected that if indeed my bag was returned (realizing there was nothing in it to take) that it would be on my bed...it was not there and I took a deep breath realizing that indeed it was stolen and that I better start thinking of a plan. N then said, " I think they found your bag" at which time I look down and it was at my feet. WOW...what a day, maybe a lesson learned...a time to really think about what is important to you and a time to notice the kindness of overworked service employees. My room mates were all women, fun, energetic precious women... My only wish was that we had had the time to sit within those walls and get to know each other more. L from New Zealand had to visit a clinic to be diagnosed with tendinitis and she and N would be seeking another night in Burgos. I had plans to return my items to Decathalon the next day and be on the road...one of the host shared it would not be open on Sunday and I too came terms that I would be here another day...another day in Beautiful Burgos...things could be worse....
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