She Follows Shells: Day 19 Cabrets to Saint Cirq Pop

Loved this spot on the river last night. We got in late at night and went straight for the campsite. This morning we got up packed and Daniel and I decided to go grab a coffee as the kids continued to pick hazelnuts and play with the campsite cats. We are about four days behind schedule, though I have little concern as time is on our side. We had hoped to rent a van at the end and have four weeks to tour around Europe but most of that was fluff with no certain agenda. Reichen really wants to see Berlin, I can hope we will make it but if not Europe will be here and everyone in the family appreciates travel. I can make them no promises at what specifically we will be doing in the end, the weeks after the Camino. I mention the days behind schedule as when doing this alone you don't need to factor in all of the time to grocery shop, stops around each persons desires and needs and this foraging (berries and nuts) has really effected our days walk and its of time. The desire to collect anything edible and large amounts of whatever it is takes a lot of time. Daniel and I had what we thought would be a twenty minute head start, enough time to take in a coffee or two. An hour later still no kids. These towns are small and clearly marked, the foot routes are well marked so no worries at all that I would leave kiddos to finish up packing and make the ten minute walk to the first open restaurant " near the church" ( always near the church)... We instantly headed up hill in what I think were twenty of my hottest moments on trail. I actually think the rocks are why. What a gorgeous area though, nothing in the World like it I suppose. Thirty minutes away are prehistoric caves with animal images a few women images and hand images. Remember the custom of the hands from yesterday? This is why... And today I bought bread for this special day with the reverse image of a hand.

Loved this image taken in the church...

These caves are called Pech Merle and they are a huge tourist attraction in season. Thankfully the place had a free museum and documentary, we were going to skip the expensive tour when an employee offered me a generous reduced rate. A group rate for students that we could do at 2:15. Daniel had little desire to do this, not being from Europe I had a great desire to do this, more importantly the children really wanted to do this. We had all been to Lasqaux before, but many don't know the modern visit of Lasqaux is a reproduction while the original is protected. Pech Merle is sure to follow this tradition but we wanted to see the real images and were not disappointed.

Lunch immediately after and at 4:00pm we were off, just a few kilometers from where we woke at 0800 this morning.

We had a short day planned thanks to using David's itenirary which included Pech Merle. Everyone for days has been talking about the rain coming on Wednesday now pushed up to coming tonight. David recommended one campground and it would be tonight's location. I assumed it would have rented caravans etc.. As he brought students who I know didn't camp.

We got to the town before, ended up at a restaurant made from an old railway ticket stop, bought three cokes to talking $10 but got the back door opened to us with direct access to walking on the old train tracks and a special chance to walk a path on the river to tonight's destination. Tons of cliffs and caves and a splendid 90 minute or so walk. This made the cokes purchase so much more justifiable. The precious lady working there refilled our water bottles, passed around cookies and we were hand in hand knowing we were out of the rain (for now) optimistic of the nights lodging. We hated to have to part ways with Daniel, but being a previous pilgrim I know this is part of it and was glad the kids understood this as well. He too is going to Santiago so I highly suspect we will see each other again! He shared he wasn't sure if he was going to continue the three or four days after Santiago to the ocean and I was pushy telling him he must! As much as I want to tell everyone this is an opportunity to not be missed I did figure I knew enough about him to know he would appreciate it.

The kids and I had 15 minutes of a direct climb up the hill to this beautiful tourist town, it almost pops you out to be viewed by a mass of tourist eating and enjoying food while you are left to huff and puff from exhaustion.

Everyone was pulling out their cameras as among these tourist we were " pilgrims" in every sense of the word. A nice visit to the chapel and down the hill to a wonderful campground with about three hours to spare before the rain would start. We are in a clean modular home with kitchen bathroom and sleeping for six, the cost 53 euros, I would have expected to pay almost 30 for camping so this seems to be deal. We needed a roof over our head. I ran into the restaurant for a gorgeous salad while the kids enjoyed our kitchen. Karsh made friends with a magpie, a rather large black and white bird that ate from his hands.

Today was a wonderful day on the Camino!!!!

These precious pilgrims (walking about a week each year) started singing the Pilgrim song to us as we walked through the park where the caves are. We will never forget this!

Saying goodbye to a true friend, always difficult, but thank you for trusting our journey to the Cele Valley, gambling that we promised we had enough food and hammock to share and wonderful friendship from the youngest to the oldest in the family. You fit right in with us!

No pictures were allowed in the caves but these drawings might reveal images found in History books...

For those following this route behind us this is train depot restaurant, I recommend a drink from this dear gal and back door access out to the train tracks...

We are a little full of ourselves as this is a great day!

Along the river, amazing...

Clearly an expensive, commissioned art project on route...this is the walkway between towns and is stunning!

After climbing the last fifteen minutes this rest stop awaits you that holds your pack while you wait for followers...

Every sign, building is pure perfection, a beautiful town...

We climbed the hill that puts you out right into town huffing and puffing , head down arms on knees only to look up with a bunch of people looking at you dying while they eat and sip vino. There were lots of photos being taken of the kids.

In the church

Prayers on her own...