We woukd wander the streets early looking for a cafe con leche ( coffee with milk), and when it was suggested we bavktrack back near our auberge to some hole the wall I protested some....I craved a coffee in the square or near the cathedral vs a small smoke filled place where the same two locals are propped all day long drinking and watching a blaring TV. Thankfully Sebastian joined me though I think he really wanted to get a coffee....
We walked around and nothing was open....any hint of an open business had a gentleman calmly telling us they were not. Today is Good Friday and maybe they are gearing up for a busy night. As we walked in the trendy area I felt guilty for taking us off a decent course for coffee and then we heard the wonderful sounds of " swishhhhhhhhh" from an expensive commercial coffee machine. We both instantly realized the sound and I think started dancing in the open street where only street cleanerscould witness us. I went dancing into the fancy restaurant where the gentleman behind the bar was doing something to the coffee machine, desperate for coffee I was skipping thru the air, hands in air and dancing in the doorway and the gentleman told us matter of fact that he was closed. I said, " cafe con leche" and he said, " closed".... I don't know if it was the fat lip that overtook my face or what but Sebastian was turning around and the gentleman looked at me and said, one moment"....
Sebastian clearly was calling it and I said to hold on that I felt this guy was 1. Going to hook us up or 2. Point us in the direction of MacDonalds....hoping for number one of course.
All of a sudden two coffees were before us, donut/cake kind of snack and two bottles of water. when I went to pay the man made it very clear he woukd take no money from me and even loaded us with another bottle of water to go. A true Camino Angel!!!!! He asked that I pray for him in Santiago at which I made sure he knew I would. I didn't get the name of his business which really is not like me as I would love to have sent him an email but for some odd reason I was at peace knowing my word was more important than proving any deed....
Today would be a wonderful walk, and very well marked. Super misty and birds singing their heart heart. I would experience a special connection this morning, in the thick mist where my hair was drenched I woukd see three donkeys stationed right beyond where we would turn to follow an arrow or a shell that marks our way. in my pockets I always carry bread," for the donkeys" and woukd go out of my way to get these three some....way out in left field, not visable due to the mist came a desperate, " hee haw, hee haw" of another donkey who clearly knew what was going on and came running and hollaring the whole way to me. Of course I not only saved him dome but he was given the most!
I think it was Posada de Llanera where a bar at the corner treated us so great, the name was El Cruce.
Thirteen kilometers later a dog that teminded me so much of dear friend's pup that died several years ago, Cinnamon, would bark with excitement as we passed...the owners were busy doing outside work and woukd invite us onyo their patio for a great conversation and water and lemon.
On to Aviles, we would arrive pretty pooped, woukd shower before going out and seconds from the doorway as we were about to leave for dinner woukd be a pilgrim, I thought by himself and I did what all pilgrims should do and invited him to join us for dinner....and he agreed. This pilgrim is Danial from Southern France...we woukd eat at a nice vino and tapas place but maybe because it was Good Friday we were not socializing the way pilgrims usually do, we all seemed to aplogize for the need to communicate at home with loved ones. Daniel had just arrived from Oviedo, Sabastian's girlue back at home was really wanting to chat with him on the phone and I was missing my family terribly. Sure we chatted, ate and drank....but will admit all were slightly pre-occupied. I do notice this pilgrimage vs my one eighteen months ago seems alittle more tolerant of devices on the table, with that said my family will always come first so if a communication must come thru I will make sure the connection is made.
Lights out at ten PM...I woukd lose sight of Sebastian as he had to call his girl and since he is an early riser feared we might lose eachother and not see eachother again. While that is, " the camino", I certainly hoped that would not be the case for he too was like a little brother to me.....
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